VL Prodigy - It compares, easily. Much lighter trigger, way lighter, but far less customizable. And no firing modes, thank god.
Zap ZXS 1000-E (Black Dragun, basically) - I didn't use this marker much, but it was bearable, except for the SEAR ADJUSTMENT which I had no idea about at the time. :@
Edit: The setup I used today (15 may 04) was as follows:
48/3000psi HPA tank (Pure Energy)
Dye Excel barrel
68/4500 PE tank
OGI Tactical Electronic Sniper
MacDev MatchStick barrel kit
Maddman, 32 Degrees and Shocktech spring kits
Evil Detonator regulator
Check It Super Speedy Dropforward
Bandit Nylatron T.E.S. bolt
And eventually more...
Check It Super Speedy dropforward
Bandit Fenix bolt
Springs and random junk
eVLution II or a Halo B
The top 3 upgrades:
*Viewloader eVLution 2
*Pure Energy high pressure air tank, I recommend a 68/4500
*MacDev MatchStick for a kit or Dye Excel for just a one piece.
In order from most needed to least needed:
I'm not sure if the pitiful ball detent will be able to hold a Halo down, so I'd recommend a Viewloader eVLution II or a Ricochet Apache for it. If you don't get one of the two, you will chop. I used a Ricochet 2K on it and it chopped like mad.
*NOTE* Just to point it out more thoroughly, YOU WILL CHOP if you don't get a semi-force fed hopper. Agitating does not cut it anymore (well, it'll cut balls :P)
!Compressed air (AKA nitro, nitrogen, high pressure air, HPA, N2 and several other nicknames):
This has the following advantages over CO2:
-WAY less tempermental
-WAY lower expansion from temperature (ie. not causing your marker to stop firing at -30c and not making your marker shoot 500fps at +40C)
-WAY less velocity spikes (IF you use a fill nipple cover! Always use protection :P)
And several dozen other things.
*NOTE* You will need a high pressure output tank, meaning that the tank must be able to output 850psi minimum. Regulators can only decrease pressure, they can't increase it.
*NOTE* High pressure ANYTHING is extremely dangerous, and unless you are proffesionally trained to fill, disassemble, repair or otherwise alter a cylinder or its' regulator for high pressure air, DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO IT!
*NOTE* DO NOT PUT OIL ON YOUR FILL NIPPLE! WHEN YOUR TANK IS FILLED THIS WILL CAUSE A LOWERED FLASH POINT TO THE POINT THAT THE OIL WILL IGNITE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE!
*NOTE* Check with America's Department of Transportation or Canada's Transport Canada if you have any questions about high pressure air. You can also contact the manufacturer for the product, they may be helpful also.
*NOTE* I should point out that as long as you follow rather simple safety instructions as stated by the manufacturer (and common sense ones like not dissassembling the reg from the tank when there's still pressure in it. To bleed the tank just screw it into an ASA that isn't attached to anything and all the pressure will eventually come out, just check the gauge and wait until you can't hear any more are escaping. Hold on to the tank just in case.) and by your countries' transportation department, HPA is very safe. But one final safety tip: If you can see the reg seperating from the cylinder (on CO2 tanks this would be the valve seperating, it's the copper piece that you screw into your ASA) THEN DO NOT MOVE IT ANY FURTHER! The cylinder might unscrew completely and create a bottle rocket that has, I'm serious, killed two people in one month. This is a major safety concern! Always get a TRUSTED airsmith (ask more experienced players, and several of them, who is a trusted airsmith around) to install new valves on your CO2 tanks.
-Non Adjustable screw-in:
Pure Energy 68ci/4500psi air system
-Adjustable screw-in (only one of them):
-Adjustable dovetail mount screw-in:
Air America Armoggedon 2004 (so hottttttttttttttt...)
Evil Inc. Scion
MacDev Conquest 2004
A proper paint to barrel match, consistent velocities and good (consistant in size) paint will make your marker run wonderfully and perfectly accurate. Paint to barrel match, even down to the thousandth of an inch, matters significantly in your accuracy. In fact, with an absolutely perfect paint to barrel match (which is impossible, you can get close with good paint) the only other variable in your marker will be it being clean and consistent velocities.
MacDev MatchStick if on a budget, Custom Products kit if not. Dye Ultralights are pimp two piece non-kit barrels, get one (don't bother buying a Titanium 'stick, they're pointlessly expensive).
I'll finish this later, but here's a summary:
-Bolt: Bandit Nylatron HP w/ o-rings Fenix bolt. Spudnuk'l = A waste of money. Nylatron bolts are cheaper and have less problems compared to Delron bolts. The benefit of upgrading from your stock bolt is not having to lube it (except for the o-rings occasionally, if you get a bolt with them) and the disadvantage is more kick because the mass (the bolt and the striker) are moving without as much hinderance and this will also cause more chops.
-Grips: Wait, apparently some Sticky 3s fit.
-Regulator: Evil Detonator is my suggested buy.
-Drop forward: I suggest a Check It Speedy drop.
-Circuit boards: IS or T board.
-Trigger. Either Zenitram or ACI Slasher. I'm not sure on prices, but most likely they'll be within the same range.
-Titanium striker: This will lower your kick and possibly your chops. Dark Horizons (I think that's what they're called) and Magnum make them. I'd get the Magnum striker (check Spyder & Spyder clone section for it) as it's much lighter, but be sure to buy the electro version, and if your bolt fits in the bottom tube then get the fatty striker, if not, get the slim striker version.
-Spring kits: Nearly essential. Maddman and 32 Degrees make pimp kits. I'd get both of those and a Shocktech Shim kit, but if you're on a budget just get the 32 Degrees kit.
-Good paint. Will help the most for anything.
See Review Body
See Review Body
Here's the main review, followed by the Strengths/Weaknesses then the impressions I got the days I used it:
Anyways, this is the marker of one of my brothers' friends. He got it off the internet from the States for $300 Canadian and that's quite the excellent deal. I used this marker on two occasions, one with the following set up:
Viewloader 200 gravity fed hopper and a Ricochet 2K agitating hopper.
9oz CO2 non antisyphoned, 16oz CO2 non antisyphoned and a Pure Energy 68/4500 psi HPA tank.
Dye Excel barrel (which we quickly ditched because of the extremely crappy paint).
And Zap Recball paint :@
This setup made me hate this marker initially. Chopped incessantly and was a real pain in every aspect (weight, accuracy, cleaning).
The next time we used it at a real field (before we were at a farm) and this is what we were using:
Viewloader eVLution II
48/3000psi Pure Energy tank
Dye Excel barrel, had a good paint to barrel match and made it shoot darts
PMI Bigball and Premium paint
I wanted to get this marker now, lol. It shot very fast and accurately with no chops. I took it out and shot from 30 yards away at a tree about 3 inches wide and at the maximum speed I could shoot (at least as fast as FULL AUTO 13, enough to get the Angel Speeds' ROF meter to the top) and it would land withing a foot of the tree. Not very impressive, you might be saying, but when everyone else lies about how great their accuracy is it actually is impressive. And had I been trying to aim more accurately I'm sure I would've hit it more (I walked onto the field and started shooting at the tree, no time to aim proper).
Internals: Light and seemingly machined well. Fit very well into the body, high quality. They're actually extremely light compared to my markers'. The valve will run (stock) down to 500 psi if I'm not mistaken... Or you might have to use different spring combos (lighter valve spring and harder main spring). Like most Spyders it is suggest you run this marker @ 850psi or so, but the review I read for it in Splat Magazine said the manual suggested 650 or so... Anyways, tinker away, but the higher the better! The bolt is top cocking (ish, see Weaknesses section) so that you can easliy strip down the marker for a good clean. The bolt also has an o-ring where the ball detent contacts it, so that may cause the o-ring to need to be replaced frequently. We've already had to replace it, but that's probably because paint swelled it.
Grip Frame: Nothing special here except it's electro and has modes (semi, full auto, burst 3 and burst 6, all except for semi are adjustable from 4 to 13 bps). It's also tourney lockable by removing a connector thingy on the board. It seems pretty high quality, I suggest getting a T-Board though (or possibly the Kinetic board.) for 36bps :D The trigger resting point is adjustable by a screw on top of the trigger, accessible by taking off the grip frame.
Barrel: I really didn't use the stock barrel much, but it is pretty huge bore (big enough to fit the horrible Zap paint in, which wouldn't fit in the .692 Excel). Like all stock barrels, it is assumed to be truly horrible and should be replaced immediately with a usually crappier barrel.
Feed Neck: YES! It's adjustable! This is truly wonderful, and if it isn't just buy another one. I suggest getting the lower half of the 2-piece feed neck for the TES from OGI and then getting the new OGI clamping feedneck.
Ball Detent: It is confirmed, it will not hold down the mighty strength of a Halo. So just buy an eVLution II and then get a Z-Board and throw it on and you'll be rocking, hurrah. This ball detent is of the metal bearing type, much better than the damned fang detents on most Spyders.
Gas Mileage: Quoting from the April/May 2004 issue of Splat Magazine, the Fenix got 800 shots off of a 45 cubic inch (850psi output at 650psi operation) 4500psi tank filled to 3000psi.
+ + + + + TOP COCKING: Kingman finally got some sense knocked into them and started using top cocking bolts in their markers, but they're still kinda strange... see the "TOP COCKING?:" title in the weaknesses section.
+ + + + REGULATOR: Has a regulator, stock. A handy thing for any marker, but it's pretty crappy if I may say so myself.
+ + + + FEED NECK: This marker comes stock with an adjustable feedneck! Bliss! It's adjustable by hand or by those flat screwdrivers or by some grasping tool of sorts.
+ + + NO PROBLEMS!!: With high pressure air, an eVLution II and a Dye Excel barrel, not a single chop, barrel break or otherwise was encountered! Really amazing! Accuracy was quite incredible, as I was shooting, from 50 yards away and at at least 13bps, at a tree about 5 inches wide and was hitting it nearly every time :|
Just thought I'd point out that 13bps is ungodly fast, and that your BPS count is most likely artificially inflated to impossible amounts.
+ + + CUSTOMIZABLE:Customizable, thank god. I can't stand that about the Viewloader Prodigy. Everything on this marker can be changed! Just check my upgrades section above.
+ + + NO CHOPS: With an Eggo II, I was shooting as fast as I possibly could (which will max out the shot counter on a Speed) and
+ + + KICK: Very little kick when firing with paint, because the internals (bolt and striker) are quite light. Without paint the bolt doesn't have back pressure and it keeps the valve open longer and that makes it kick more.
+ + + BRAND NAME: It's a Spyder, yay! Brand names forever. This inflates the price quite well, and Kingman does a great job of appealing to newbies who don't know that their markers are easily not worth that much.
+ + + COSMETICS: Nice milling, and interesting colours. Annodization is pretty well done also. It won't scratch off too easily. Some of you woods hicks might say you'll get noticed in the brush with it... In which case, go play some airball you fools.
+ + ELECTRONIC FRAME: It's electro with different modes (rolls eyes...). 13bps max is what the board states, in any mode. This hardly uses the potential of blowback at all, though... It has the modes Burst 3 (BUR3, adjustable from 7 to 13bps), Burst 6 (BUR6, adjustable from 7 to 13bps), Semi Auto which is the default mode and is unadjustable at 13bps (SEMI), and finally Full Auto for you complete morons out there (AUTO, adjustable from 7 to 13bps). To change modes you must do some simple button pressing, and to change ROF you only have to hold the button until (I think) the 13 light starts flashing, then press to adjust, then hold it again until it goes back to being able to shoot. I'm going on memory here...
+ + TOURNY LOCK!!!:Has a tourny lock, thank god.
+ + TRIGGER ADJUSTABLE:Can adjust pull length of trigger
+ ANGLED FRONT BLOCK A.S.A.:15 degree front block, actually, it was more like 10.
- - - - - VALUE: With the stock features, this marker really isn't worth a $350 Canadian price tag, but then again, neither are any high end markers.
- - TRIGGER: was stiff as heck, couldn't walk it properly. I also couldn't figure out how to get the trigger spring out :@ Easy to adjust, though. Edit: I found out, just check Otters Customs and there's a tutorial SOMEWHERE to take the trigger, or basically everything held with pin in the marker out. They all use the same idea, just make sure you smack the proper side!Edit: I just noticed that with paint, the trigger is extremely fast. You'll be able to hold a ROF well with it.
- - - HEAVY: Compared to my marker, it's a bloody lead weight. But it's all metal, making it have a nicer feel and making it more durable if you run over it somehow (it really doesn't matter in this sense). It weighs 3.5 pounds.
- - LENGTH: Because of this marker being a Spyder with a removable front block, it's a couple inches longer than a full body Spyder.
- -TOP COCKING?: Even though it's top cocking, is connected to the striker with a DIFFERENT pin than the pull pin, so you have to take both out at once. WHY?!?!
-FIRING MODES: Blender!! Yay! Unless you somehow mill this thing to take decent detents and get a Halo, an Eggo won't keep up with the constant demands of dumb firing modes. Don't even use them! Take off the mode jumper and chuck it! lol
-REGULATOR:Regulator wouldn't come apart even though I am quite paintball knowledged. I didn't have the diagram, that's why. Just wanted to take it apart cmpletely, lol. I must do that to everything.
-SWITCH: is completely unbouncable. Crazy! Now I can't cheat!!! Just kidding.
-TRIGGER GUARD: The trigger guard is locktighted, make sure you don't strip the screw holding it in.
I used this marker for one day out at a farm on a 12oz and 16oz Co2 tank (both not anti-syphoned) with a Ricochet 2K and also a 68/4500psi Pure Energy tank. It ran alright, but was definitely not worth the price. It chopped almost constantly, which might've been because of the VERY crappy paint we were using (Ug... Zap Recball, the junk in the white bucket), but even my Prodigy outperformed it. Quite the waste of money, but oh well.
The next time I used it, we had a Pure Energy 48/3000, an eVLution II and a Dye Excel barrel and I was amazed. It was simply awesome. High rate of fire with no chops and it was shooting darts! We used a mix of Big Ball and Premiums.
The Spyder Fenix electronic marker from Kingman International is a decent marker, but not great enough to be worth its $350 Canadian price tag. The two improvements it has over other Spyders is it being top cocking and having an inline regulator.
With HPA, an Eggo II and a decent barrel or barrel kit, you'll have an incredible marker for quite cheap.
7 out of 10
Last edited on Wednesday, May 26th, 2004 at 7:07 pm PST
The All American is probably the better of the two if it wasn't extremely limited in bore sizes (.689 and .683 if I'm not mistaken), and paint to barrel match even down to the thousandth of an inch is the number one thing that affects accuracy.
The Freak is much more versatile (.679 to .697 backs) but is also prone to other problems such as the inserts (except for the stainless steal ones) being scratched or otherwised damaged enough to cause major in barrel trauma :P and there is also the issue of the insert being aligned with the barrel, cause if it isn't paint will break and accuracy will be affected significantly too.
I'd suggest just getting the MacDev MatchStick kit. Much cheaper than the Freak with less problems and it still has enough bores to keep you covered.
Forget Mac Dev, or Freak, or even AA. Get a JT Barrel, 2 piece. Those rule!!! Good accuracy, esspecially for a spyder. Boomy is a little too over rate for spyders, but they aint that bad. Not worth the money. Get the JT 2 Piece, you wont be disapointed (check out the reviews!_)
Even though I would never touch a Spyder, I read this review. "kangaroodent," that was the best review I have ever read in my life. If only you made sure ALL of your spelling and punctuation was correct, it would have been even better. You made quite a review for something that you only tested! This is the longest review I have EVER read here. Does anyone know of a review that is even longer than this one?