Viewloader Prodigy - An extremely reliable marker if you just lube it with mineral oil (it works!!!). Striker and bolt, then you're done :O Trigger is incredibly light, the board is DEFINITELY not capped at 7bps. I can rail it.
Spyder Fenix - I dislike this marker somewhat, mainly because it's overpriced. The trigger is too stiff when compared to the Prodigy, but you can maintain speed easier when it's properly adjusted. Not worth it, I guess.
Pure Energy 68ci/4500psi with a JT tank cover :o
Odyssey Group International T.E.S. Black to Gold fade
MacDev MatchStick barrel kit
Evil Detonator regulator
Check It Speedy dropforward
Bandit Nylatron T.E.S. bolt
Pure Energy 68ci/4500psi tank
In order of importance:
-Prefferably force feed style hopper, but you can settle for a simple agitating hopper if you're low on cash. Best to worst hoppers:
Odyssey HALO B
Empire ReLoader B
Viewloader eVLution II
Odyssey HALO TSAs (not much difference between them)
Viewloader 12v ReVLution
Viewloader 9v ReVLution
Then finally the gravity fed 200s.
*Note* The detent in the TES is actually able to withstand a HALOs' constant pressure. Autococker detents can be used with some modification, and the two-piece feed tube is compatible with 2K2 Timmys, but Odyssey Group International (formerly Dragun, who were formerly M3, who have all been owned or co-owned by George Spurlock.)
*High Pressure Air (also reffered to as nitro, compressed air/CA, N2)
-HPA has way too many advantages over CO2 to count. It is all around better, just better. If you used a CO2 canister before and are on a budget for Nitro, just get a Pure Energy 47ci/3000psi tank, as the weight difference between it and a fibre wrap tank will not matter to you much, who is used to CO2 bottles (arg, heavy).
I suggest a Pure Energy 68/4500 tank. No maintenance, consistent enough and high quality parts. But if you wanna go adjustable, the best manufacturers are in this order:
MacDev (Conquest 04), CenterFlag (Dynaflow and others), Smart Parts (Max Flow).
*Note* Make sure you know what output pressures these systems can provide. Conquests only provide 600psi output, which will starve your marker if you're running higher than that.
*Note* Any compressed gasses are extremely dangerous when used incompetently. A 3000 psi bottle, if it were to explode underneath a half ton pickup, would rocket the truck up 30 stories. Always make sure you are not exceeding bottle pressure ratings or regulator pressure ratings or death could result. There have been 2 deaths in one month due to the valves on CO2 tanks coming loose and causing the bottle to rocket off and hit someone in the head. Always follow manufacturer guidelines when installing or removing valves, and if you do remove the valve, MAKE SURE THE TANK IS EMPTY! Always check with a responsible body (the manufacturer or the Department of Transportation) if uncertain about any of this.
-A barrel kit will give you the best advantage in accuracy, as a bore match (even to the one thousandth of an inch) matters significantly in accuracy, paint breaking in barrel, and more. A proper paint match would allow you to put the ball in the barrel, with the ball stopped and then blow softly and it would come out the other side. Yay. Try several balls, as consistency is not the greatest in paint. Generally, the bigger the better, as you'll get less barrel breaks (that's how they happen, when paint is distorted in the barrel because of trying to fit a bigger object in a smaller area, until it explodes.) but worse accuracy.
Barrel kit manufacturers in no real order:
-Dye (Ultralights are pimp, but the others aren't worth it at all)
-J&J (They make awesome quality barrels, ALL of them)
-MacDev (makes a good kit, but with fewer options. Very high quality, like all MacDev things are. You could probably sell one barrel out of here, as it comes with two tips. This is the MatchStick kit I'm talking about.)
-Smart Parts (makes a very versatile kit, but there are some technical problems such as weak backs and misalingment. This is the Freak kit I'm talking about.)
-Custom Products (their barrel are tried and true. They get really expensive, but they're worth it.)
Other upgrades more specific to this marker are as follows with a recommended product: REGULATOR: My choice for this would be an Evil Inc. Detonator, 2nd would be the AKA Sidewinder, 3rd would be a MacDev 04 Gladiator. If you're on a budget, the Bob Long Torpedo regulator is awesome, and some people have bought Delron pistons for it, which you can find in the Bob Long forum on PBNation.com###########. Supposedly they make it better.
DROP FORWARD: Check It Super Speedy drop forward is the best around. It's got an on/off ASA which is removable so that you when you make the switch to a higher end, dovetail rail mounted air system you won't have to buy a new drop to accomodate it. *NOTE* The TES uses non-standard hose fittings, meaning that if you replace the drop, you're going to have to use the old ASA and retro-fit it to the new drop (or else get a new reg too) so the hose will still fit the regulator, and if you get a new reg, just get a cheap bottomline style ASA and put it on the stock drop. This way you'll only have to replace one part (two max, one's cheap though).
*NOTE* On your stock drop forward, your screw-in HPA tank may not fit fully into the marker because of the gauge hitting the grip due to the short distance betweem the ASA and the grip. In this case, just loosen the ASA and slide it back a bit to allow for your tank to fit in.
Board: IS board from http://terminallerr.*** (you can guess this) or the T-Board from http://www.scenariodreams.***. The T-Board has a Black Dragun specific configuration, the other boards will probably need modification. But if you want to pick up an ESP frame, the best board you'll be able to get (from ACP, http://www.acp-products.com###########) is the Kinetic board. It's not out yet, but look at what's gonna be on it on their website and you'll be amazed.
Grips: Odyssey Group International are the only people who are making them now. Since the T.E.S. has an M92 frame, other grips won't fit. Please check the PBReview.com########### forums in the M3/PI forum in the sticky for information on how to paint your grips black.
Titanium striker: Apocalypse Custom Paintball makes the (better) Magnum striker, you'll need a Intimidator bolt pin too, though. I think Check It makes one. Make sure you are buying a SLIM striker for an electronic Spyder. Discuss this with Apoc first. Another striker being made is the titanium striker by Dark Horizons paintball. Please see the Comments section for this review, 5th post, on where to find them and which product you'll need for this marker.
Spring kits 32 Degrees or Maddman or Shocktech. 32 Degrees is the most complete, Maddman has the odd springs, Shocktech are just main springs. Get them all if you've got the cash.
Shim kits Shocktech makes the only one I can think of. Of course, you could just go buy some spacers and save some cash, but that takes effort... Ug!
Aftermarket bolt: Get a Nylatron bolt. They are cheaper than Timmy delron bolts (which will work, just make sure the bolt has a milled slot for the ball detent), but they will work too, and much cooler looking. I suggest a Bandit nylatron bolt, because they're much higher quality than Spudnuk'l. Choose the TES version. The stock bolt tends to scratch up the breach.
See Review Body.
See Review Body.
Alright, I've decided I'll make this a question answering review. Post any questions in the Comments section, and I will answer them as soon as possible and will move them up here.
+ + + + + VALUE: It's got the features of the most expensive markers, looks hot like a Timmy, shoots faster (blowbacks go at 50cps+, way faster than any Timmy) than any electro-pneu (just get a fast board [IS or T]), all for $250 or so (retails at $320 Canadian).
+ + + + + SPEED! Blowbacks can cycle more than 50cps. With lightened internals (titanium striker) and high pressure operation with gas CO2, they'll go crazy.
+ + + + SIMPLICITY:It's a blowback, after all, and no rocket science-ology is required to repair it. It's a little more complex becuase of the eyes, etc., but it's gonna either be a sear/striker/main spring problem, isn't clean/lubed, or your valve exploded or something extremely rare.
+ + + LOOKS: It looks like a crazy cool Timmy or something.
+ + + STOCK FEATURES:
-an eye (DOSE)
-low pressure operation (300-450psi)
-20bps LCD board w/ debounce option (called Auto, not full auto, but it means debounce on the board)
-adjustable trigger (not externally)
+ + UPGRADES: Lots of upgrades. It is a blowback after all.
+ +ADJUSTABLE SOLENOID DWELL: Dwell on electro Spyders sets how long the solenoid is energized for. The longer it's energized for, the more battery is used. This could be used to resolve sear and striker problems. Another potential problem is that the capacitator used to energize the solenoid might not recharge in time for the next shot if the dwell is set too high.
+ BALL DETENT: The T.E.S. has a strong ball detent that will actually hold a Halos' pressure. Autococker ball detents, with some adjustment and possibly physical modification to the marker or the detent, work also.
- - - - - QUALITY CONTROL: Dragun has had many problems with leaks from the front block, due to a bad screw, which you can get from Dragun themselves. Some TES' have eyes that don't work, some have boards with reversed chips, some have the inability to shoot above 200fps. Just send your marker in and you should get these problems dealt with, but with enough knowledge about the blowback design you should be able to do it yourself. Most of the T.E.S.s' with these quality control problems were made more recently, but still about 2 months ago. OGI has stepped up their QC, I think (according to the Co-President George Spurlock. He's been Co-President for every company that's made Dragun markers for god knows how long... OGI, Dragun, M3...)
This is where the T.E.S. is a gamble for your money if you don't know quite a bit about the mechanics of a marker.
- - - - MANUAL:Very bad manual. That's all that needs to be said.
- - - LOW PRESSURE:LP operation. This will make your marker more silent, but WHO CARES! It'll also increase your chops because of the need for a stronger main spring (the thing the pushes your striker into the valve. The bolt is attached to the striker, don't forget, so the faster it moves the faster the bolt moves, and the bolt is what chops balls in two). Don't count on eyes all the time.
- - - VALUE: Ballers who've spent 10x more on their junk will look down on you like you're the scum of the earth because you made a good decision, unlike them. Spending lots of money on something makes you want to deem your purchase sensible, which it isn't.
A great product, but with its' minor glitches, and abysmal quality control, it'll need some work to make it really worth while. But when you do get it working nicely... hehe. It'll be mad. Crazy mad. I have to say this is where the most points are lost, in the horrid quality control department that apparently has become better.
The BEST value on the market right now. If I were you I'd get a stock Spyder valve and run it at 850psi with a titanium striker and unregulated CO2. Then you'll shoot faster than a mad crazy rabid seizure fingered nutcase.
A seven on ten for an amazing marker, with big quality control problems.
7 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, June 29th, 2004 at 11:11 pm PST
This could be debated for hours, but LP is bad for a blowback marker for the following reasons:
-It requires either a lighter valve spring which will lower potential speed or a harder main spring which increases chops because of the bolt and striker accelerating faster. It requires these because it will not give out the same velocities at such a pressure, so more air needs to be supplied. You could always get a huge LPC :P
-Efficiency could become dreadful if the LP setup isn't correct. Being able to get more air out of your tank is only the smallest shots per tank variable... since I don't understand fluid dynamics, I can't give you a full explenation.
-More equipment is needed, such as regulators and etc. This inhibits your speed greatly, because of shot drop off and etc. For full potential, running unregulated CO2 is the best option, liquid CO2 might even be preffered (even less shot drop off), but it does like to eat away at basically everything.
Oh, and Bongice, there are two products you can buy, the better of the two being as follows:
$42.50 US, but contact Apoc and see if they make them specific for electronic grip Spyders, as the sear will not release if you use a normal mech Spyder striker (an electro Spyders' striker has a flat spot behind the place where the sear holds the striker back so that the sear doesn't need as much energy to be lowered).
And then choice two:
You'll want the Item #1004B
Spyder/Java Titanium Hammer w/ Electronic Grip
Cost is $39.95.
you seem to know everything so i have a question. i got a game face e rex pro. it is like a black dragun. well i spent 150 on it but about half of them have defects and mine is one of them. i am going to return it.(i got it in the mail and returning it in the mail is free) i have had it for about 5 months. it's a small defect with the trigger. but anyway the store doesn't carry it any more so they will give me 150 cash. i can get a dragun for 210 or a Parana evo 2004 for 250. i play speedball and woods. i also have a halo b and a pmi pure energy 48/3000. i hear that an n2 tank wont fit on a tes without some adjustment and the tes will need some money put into it when you first get it. all the reviews on the tes are negative or positive and their are 2 reviews on the Parana evo 2004. my question is witch one would you buy if you were me( or witch other gun besides the tes and the Parana) and why because i am totally lost and i need a gun before i go to a big game in a week and a half. could you please private message me or something.
I answered most of your question via PM, but here's some more info for you:
If you can indeed get the Pirahna Evo for that price, get it. It's well made and has breakbeam eyes. It doesn't operate at LP, but makes up for that in other areas (quality and others.)
Many people on the Rookie tournament scene in Saskatchewan have them, they appear to work quite well. Just I owned everyone with one :P lol
Anyways, if you've got the money, get a used Ebladed vertical feed (MAKE SURE it's VERTICAL FEED!) 2k2 Autococker. Stock, they're fine, perfect even.
That's what I've got, and will stick with. I've tried every other high end tournament gun (Matrixes, FULLY PIMPED INTIMIDATORS like a fully upgraded Classic, a Shocktech and more, Angels, Mags, Impulses eww, ) and I can't compare it to any of them.
Timmys break paint like mad. I was using Big Bore in a .688 on a pimped Classic, ie. $1000s of dollars into it, and it broke nearly everything. I used the SAME paint, but this was a month later, in my cocker with a .689 barrel and not a ball broke. Ever. And the reflective eye sensed it fine. The Trix chopped nearly everything, mags are just ugly and no one uses them anymore, and the others didn't compare anyways.
mine did not shoot correctly out of the box... the eye didn't want to let my gun shoot unless it was pointed towards the sun, but I just turned the eye backward to face the black shield that protects it .lol so it thought there was a ball in it all the time so now it shoots perfectly OH and be sure to tighten that ball detent up real tight so it can catch the balls lol i was shooting like three at a time, but i cant complain this is the best gun i have ever owned (proudly owned orion viewloader)... lol oh well but i would definitely buy this gun again