Automag RT Pro
(Tested) Angel Speed, Angel IR3, Angel A4, pre-2k3 Shocker, 2k3 Shocker, Vision Impulse, Diablo Matrix, Dye Matrix, DM4, Bob Long Defiant, Bob Long Intimidator(old model), Bob Long Intimidator(2002),GX3 Autococker w/ Eblade, Homebuilt Autococker with E2, Evil Omen, 2k2 Bushmaster
Emag ULE, Xvalve w/Lvl 10, SP Freak kit, Crossfire 45/4500 Nitro tank, Evo II hopper
Evo II or HALO loader. Depending on what you shoot in a game, you may want a 68/4.5k tank. ULE body
-Battery is not required for operation
-Shot effeciency(with proper Lvl 10 settings)
-Trigger adjustment not explained in manual
-Level 10 adjustment time consuming
-Battery pin easily lost
-Level 10: The level 10 mechanical anti-chop system is phenominal. With the proper tweakings, the marker will shoot all but the worst paint without chopping. Since it is mechanical, the anti-chop works even when the battery is removed from the marker.
-Trigger: the trigger is reasonably easy to adjust and can be made very short and light. However, trigger adjustment was not included in my manual(which was two sheets of paper). It was easy to find on the automags.org forums, but it should be included in the manual. The magnets make for a nice trigger pull, and it can be walked easily. UPDATE: Placing shims under the magnets in the body rail to move them further away with seriously reduce the trigger resistance. Any nonmagnetic material can be used, as I now use a small O-ring and folded piece of paper as shims.
-ROF: the board is capped at 20 bps, but that's really not an issue. With my trigger adjusted, I have done 16 bps. That was tested over a chronograph with a bps counter. I outshot my 12v X-board Revvy on several occasions, which is why I bought an Evo II.
-Battery: Many people do not like the battery, but I don't notice it to be honest. It is in a good position as a grip, and it's not uncomfortable to hold. The battery lasts 20,000 shots, and it charges to 80% in an hour, and in four hours will charge to 100% in "trickle charge." This means that the battery has no "memory", so the battery always charges back to it's original capacity. That being said, the battery can only be turned off by a small yellow plastic pin that slides into it. This is not a bad idea in and of itself, but this pin is not attached to anything and thus it is very easily lost(I've lost two).
-Manual Mode: This is, to my knowledge, the only marker that functions without power. Inserting the pin and flipping the mode selector switch to "M" allows the marker to function like a standard RT Pro. The marker also works without the battery attached at all, which means if it dies on you during a day of play, you can play while the battery charges.
-Weight: Weight is a non-issue. A number of people have complained about the weight, but I seriously doubt they've ever actually held one. They just hear that body is steel and freak out. However, my marker with an empty hopper and a full tank weighs less than my friend's IR3 with an empty hopper and full tank. Both hoppers were 12v revvys. UPDATE: The ULE makes a significant weight reduction.
-Effeciency: I get 730 shots to a 68ci/3000 psi tank. That's computed from the shot counter on the board, not from "a hopper and x number of pods."
-Size: the length of the marker is comfortable, especially with a short drop on the tank. However, the height of the marker is somewhat higher than its competition. I would prefer it if the marker was just a little shorter. A ULE centerfeed body drops about 3" off the height(my marker compared to a ULE RT Pro). UPDATE: I now have a ULE body and the height change is very noticable. It is now easier to keep behind a bunker simply because there is less to hide.
-Customer Service: I haven't had any problems with this marker. However, when I did have problems with my old Automag, the customer service at AGD was top notch.
-Price: $800. For a high end tourney marker, this is a good price in my opinion. It can keep up with Angels and the like(though the Matrix tends to outshoot it speedwise), and it blows the electro cockers out of the water.
-Maintenance: Oil through the bottom line or hoses every month or after every few days of play. Field stripping is by degassing, removing one screw, and removing the valve from the rear. The valve requires practically no maintenance, and it is all O-rings which are easily replaced from an RT Pro parts kit.
You get alot for what you pay for. The marker is easy to maintain, customer service is up there, the new 3.2 software is quite good(and 4.0 is coming out soon from what I hear). You can attain a very high ROF with a little trigger tweaking, which involves only two allen wrenches for 3 point adjustment. The battery lasts quite a while, recharges quickly to a usable strength, and the marker doesn't need it anyway. While it is a little tall, the marker is a reasonable weight(comperable to an IR3 Angel with similar set up) and length. There are a few niggling problems (battery pin is easy to lose, level 10 can be a pain to tweak at times, manual is sketchy on certain things), but they do not really detract from the marker overall and they are rather easily fixed. If you want one, get it now, because they're not being made anymore.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, February 4th, 2005 at 12:48 am PST
i haven't had the chance to see how many shots/fill i get with an e-mag or x-mag, but i used to own a mag with an x-valve, and it sure as hell wasn't air efficient, but that might have just been my gun. nice review, accurate and indepth, just like our american media ;-).
I now use a 45ci/4500 psi tank and get 720 shots on average to a full fill and the shortest Level 10 bolt spring, chronographing at 250 fps. The shortest spring will give you better efficiency while making the bolt fire somewhat harder. On brittle paint this is obviously bad, but on most mid- to low-end paintballs this is fine. That's the trade you make when fiddling with bolt springs. I also now have a ULE body on it and it makes a world of difference. It feeds more consistantly, has a lower profile, and is noticably lighter.