Stock Barrel only, it sucks, enough said.
Boomstick, cool looking, moderate cost, accurate enough.
Whatever that guy's cocker barrel was, shiney splash anodized. I'm sure it was expensive, but it shot very straight. It better for a 1500 dollar gun.
Tippmann Custom 98
Low Pressure Kit
Sucky Pure Energy regulator
38cu, 3000PSI solid steel HPA tank.
Any High quality paint. A lot of time, the balls will vary by processor batch, and with humidity/temp. I use a set of dial calipers on one of the bags of balls to test for size.
Anything from Draxxus seems to work great, you're looking for a round that will roll freely though the barrel from muzzle to ball detent.
I currently use Blaze, it works wonders.
Very long range
It's made out of aluminum, nice and light.
Since the barrel must be bent, defects can be found.
The rough surface collects everything.
Funny watching retards try to 'matrix' arround your paint and get nailed.
The optical illusion of slowness works to your advantage when shooting at people out in the open.
Flat trajectory, no more Kentucky Windage for me.
Flip the gun upside down and you have your very own mortar tube for paintballs.
Turn the gun at an angle to hook shots arround stuff. Acts just like a curve ball, dives steeply once it slows down to about 200 FPS.
Fairly simple to install. I fail to see what the huge problem is with installing this. A crecent wrench, allen wrench set, and a Room temperature IQ are all that is really required.
The looks and heckling you get when you leave off the shroud, and have a low pressure kit. 'OMG ur barrel is broken! u r lame!' I just love goggling them 20 seconds into a game.
It's made out of aluminum, easily scratched by dirt in the barrel.
You have to use hot soapy water to get rid of gun oil slicks in the barrel.
A moderate pain to setup when you do not have access to a chronograph
Small sweet spot speed where it works very well, everywhere else sucks.
Difficult to setup with a low pressure kit due to the 5-6 variables affecting the flight of your paint. But this was only an issue with my gun.
You cannot shoot this gun clean, the rough surface will collect and hold anything you put in it.
This barrel, when properly machined, alligned, serviced, with the proper paint, and at the sweet spot speed that seems to be unique for everyone, you can't find a better barrel for the 98 custom. Unfortunately, that is very difficult for a non-tweaker to get right. I can get a +-24" grouping out at 150 feet, which is more than enough to screw with people. And they break consistently, because the round is still traveling fairly fast. The rotational energy in the ball adds impact impulse to the round, and impulse is what breaks the ball on the body.
Ever shot at a pillow? The ball decellerates over a much longer time than if it hit a tree. The breakage of a ball is all about decelleration over time.
With good paint, and a squeaky clean gun, you will have almost no ball wander, and on any open area, you can sit out in the open and take pot shots at people.
I can shoot 6 BPS through my barrel with my LP kit, and I have yet to break a ball after 1000 rounds.
If you want to be the best at anything in the medium to long range area, such as a back player, sniper, lookout, or all arround, this is the gun for you. You should ONLY use higher quality paint, if the paint has any crease you can catch on your fingernail, it's no good.
You must PRACTICE to be able to use this barrel effectively, since the way you hold it while crouching WILL affect the way it curves downrange, you must be able to counter it. You must know intamately the flight characteristics of the balls comming out of your gun.
This barrel is NOT for you IF you want to screw it on and notice a massive improvement. You have to tweak and retweak the gun in order to realize its capabilities.