Many other electros including angels, shockers, eblades, T1, etc...
Halo B with Victory Board, Rip Drive
68/4500 screw-in tank
Stiffer ball detents (if used with a halo)
Stunning Looks, Blistering Speed, Tourney Legal, A true professional marker
Price, Price, Price, repair parts difficult to get, Price, LCD window fogs up
At the time of the original review, the Frenzy 116 board was tournament legal. As of now, the rules have changed and are different depanding on what league you play in. New Timmys will be shipping with software that has tourney modes for each league.
After having used the marker for several months, I felt it was time to update my review. I am still completely satisfied with the marker. So far after three months of use, I can only remember one occasion that I chopped a ball, and that was due to dead batteries in my hopper. I have since added a Stiffi Switch barrel kit, and I experience excellent accuracy. On the indoor speedball field where I usually play, I can consistantly keep all of the shots in a head sized area on the opposite side of the field. I fixed the LCD window situation by adding a pair of Hybrid "contract killer" grip panels to replace the cut-up stock ones. Additionally, I added a CP magnet upgrade to the trigger, which helps the tigger to return more reliably and allows for tension adjustment.
Also, I modified the body and ASA by tapping out the ASA mounting hole ofr a setscrew, and tapping the ASA to accept an autococker hose barb. I can now remove the ASA without removing the hose barb first (like the Alias, A-Bomb, etc). Since I play indoors, there is no sand, mud, or dirt to get in the marker and foul things up. As a result, the internals have suffered no appreciable wear beyond that which had occurred before I bought it.
Some things I'd like to see changed (on all intimidators) are:
(hose barbs) Make them standared 10/32 threads, stainless. The brass m3 barbs are fragile and snap off easily.
(screws) The clamshell and eye cover screws are prone to rusting, make them stainless
(LCD) Give it a backlight, it's hard to see in low light.
(manual) I want a new manual for each version of the timmy, not one manual from a few years ago that's supposed to apply to all of them, and doesn't reflect changes from one series to the next.
Overall, these are minor gripes, and they haven't diminished my appreciation for this marker.
I was interested to discover that different series of intimidators use different feedneck threading. The Empire uses Autococker STO feedneck threads. The Alias and newer versions use proprietary timmy threading.
That's all for now. I'll update again if I notice anything worth sharing.
[[END OF EDIT]]
Well, I told myself I'd never write one of those useless gushing reviews that completely praise a marker and leave objectivity at the door, so I'll try really hard not to do so. I have been wanting to add an Intimidator to my collection for a long time, and today, the opportunity presented itself. A slightly used Empire Timmy became available, and after a quick trade, it came into my possession.
To be fair, it must be noted that this marker was not stock as it comes from Empire. I replaced the bolt (which shows some wear, as does the inside of the breech), inline regulator (with a CP), and the previous owner had installed a CP ball bearing trigger.
I immediately disassembled the entire marker upon arriving home from the trade, to clean and inspect everything. On the surface, it was in good condition with only moderate wear in the breech. First, I removed the grip panels. The previous owner had cut the window out of the left grip panel, because he complained that it made it difficult to see the LCD screen. I was delighted to discover that the actual clamshell panel had a second plastic window beneath the 45 grip panel, which adds a second layer of protection against a hit.
The vinyl hose connecting the solenoid to the ram sleeve and vertical ASA was difficult to remove, and the position of the hose barb on the ASA makes removing it from the main body complicated. (Timmy owners everywhere can attest to this, so it's par for the course.) I was surprised to see that the ram sleeve itself was part of the valve assembly. The cup seal, or "poppet", seals directly against a raised circle on the face of the ram sleeve. Since the sleeve is aluminum, this could cause it to wear faster, but only time will tell.
I was also pleased that the marker came with a locking feed neck, an adjustable ram cap, and plenty of room for fat fingers in the trigger guard.
After completely disassembling everything but the LPR, (I'll do that some other time), I put it all back together and headed for the field.
The first thing to do was get it chronographed. For the first time in a very long time, I was able to take a newly rebuilt marker into the chrono station, make one quick adjustment to the velocity and be finished after 5 or six shots. Already, the grin was beginning to spread across my face. After my first game, I was an absolute Cheshire cat.
I don't know how this marker passes the robot, but it's tournament legal in 50 states. I couldn't believe the incredible rate of fire spewing forth from my quivering hands. Balls belted out the barrel in a furious race to be the first to end it's existence as a greasy splash of color on my helpless opponents. This thing performs better than anything I have shot in the four or so years I have been involved in paintball. As an anodizer, I have had the opportunity to work on almost everything, but this is something special.
When I first laid eyes on the first generation classic Timmys, I thought they were grotesque looking with the dual front regs and the Frankenstein hand grip. The latest generation of Intimidators leave their humble beginnings in the dust, and offer a vivid palette of bold milling and anodizing. The Empire Timmy has an aggresive look with sharp angles and lots of material removed. The Empire logo features prominently in the milling and give the marker a unique "toothy" look.
On the downside, I have heard that the cloudiness in the LCD widows of the grips is a common problem. Also, the gauge could have been a micro gauge. The stock bolt and the inside of the breech suffer a lot of wear (probably due to playing outdoors on sandy fields). With the CP trigger installed, the marker has significant mechanical trigger bounce. The Frenzy board will pass a robot, but I clocked myself at 10 BPS with the air off, and 15 BPS while dry firing with the air on. BIG difference, but it's all mechanical, and therefore can be tuned out.
So, in conlusion? I absolutely love it. My next marker will be an Alias when I can afford it. The Empire will make a killer backup marker. For the time being, I am still glowing with the memory of it's outstanding performance on the field earlier today. I'm not anyone special, not a pro player or anything, so my word may not hold as much weight, but to use the cliche "take my word for it" this marker is an excellent choice. If you can somehow come up with the exorbitant price for one of these babies, you won't be let down. I give it a nine, because it didn't come with a swimsuit model in the box that was trained to bring me beer and fill my pods. Best marker I've ever shot, bar none.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Saturday, February 26th, 2005 at 2:52 pm PST
As I recall, when the Frenzy boards came out, they were tested on the robot. They grabbed random markers from the field, and from unopened retail boxes. [i]ALL[/i] of them passed the robot, and all of the Timmies with Frenzy 116 boards were tournament legal as of the time this review was written.
NPPL, PSP, and NXL all have different rules now, and when the latest version of Frenzy boards ships, they will have 3 tournament-legal modes for each league's rules.
As for [i]mechanical[/i] bounce, that's a grey area. The robot test involves clamping the marker in a vise, so recoil has no effect on the robot test. In essence, a marker can have outrageous mechanical bounce and still be tournament legal because it passes the robot test.
Fortunately for you, Pirhannas generally have no bounce of any kind.