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Comments on WarHamster's Review

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WarHamster Sunday, May 22nd, 2005
Period of
Product Use:
3 months3 of 3 people found this review helpful.

Paintball
Experience:
4 years
Similar
Products Used:
None
Marker Setup: -Upgraded 2004 Ariakon SIM-4 w/ accessories
-Stock 2004 WGP Autococker Prostock (converted to Sniper II)
-Upgraded 2001 WGP Sniper II
-Stock Ariakon ACP Pistol
Strengths: -Cheapest Pump Available
-Very Durable
-Lightweight (delrin pump arm)
Weaknesses: -Pump handle twists
-Spring Easily lost
-Difficult to remove barrel backs
Review: This is a pretty self explanatory upgrade for your autococker. It replaces the pneumatics with a Pump arm and turns your Autococker into a Sniper II. It's extremely handy when you're running low on paint at the end of the day, feel like a challenge, or someone organizes an impromptu pump game.

It's farily easy to put on and take off. It takes 5 minutes tops.
-Remove the bolt/cocking rod & take the backblock of the cocking rod.
-Remove the frontblock by unscrewing the banjo bolt
-Remove the 3-Way rod from the coupler
-Put the o-ring from the banjobolt of the front block onto the pump rod
-Screw in the pump rod
-Slide the pump (with cocking rod) onto the pump rod
-Attach the backblock and put the bolt & cocking rod back in

You now have a completely functional Sniper II. If you want to switch back to semi-automatic, just repear the directions in reverse. The only timing necessary when putting the pneumatics consists of figuring out how far to screw the 3 way rod onto the coupler (and you get that down after a few tries).

I don't have many real complaints, and those that I do have are mostly fixed in the more expensive White Wolf Airsoft & Chipley Custom Machine pump kits. However, since this is a review of the WGP kit, I'll go over those problems now.

First of all the pump kit has a nasty tendacy to twist around putting stress on the cocking rod and backblock. This is because the pump kit is only held in place by the one guide rod. Thus the only thing that prevents it from spinning freely is the cocking rod which is connected to the backblock and thus the bolt. So really, if you think about it, the bolt pressing against the internals of the body is what's keeping your kit from twisting... Obviously not designed terribly well, but I suppose it works and it helps keep the cost down.

Secondly is the return spring in the pump arm. Normally this spring is safely wedges between the guide rod & the pump arm. However, when you're taking it out, this spring can push the guide rod out and has a nasty tendancy of disappearing. I've already lost (and subsequently found later) mine twice. Is this a huge deal? No. Is it annoying when you loose your spring because you absent-mindedly turned your pump kit over while you were working on your cocker? Yes.

Finally, is a problem inherent to autocockers and sniper II's in general no matter what pneumatics or pump kits you're using. However, I'll address it anyways because it ticks me off. If you're using a 2 piece barrel or a barrel system, it is very easy to get the back portion of the barrel stuck onto your gun. The reason for this is that the front with start unscrewing from the back instead of the back unscrewing from the body. Once this starts happening you're basically screwed. There will be no good way to grip the back and apply torque to it in order to unscrew it from the body because the pneumatics or pump kit is in the way. The only way to get around this once it's happened is to completely remove the pneumatics or pump kit just to take your barrel off. I'd suggest taking precautions when using two piece barrels. First screw you front VERY tightly into your back so it's unlikely to come loose without significant force. Second screw your back into the marker VERY loose. Only put it on tight enough to keep it in place. Do NOT torque it down.
Conclusion: Overall it's a fairly good product. For the cost it's something everyone with an autococker should have, just in case they feel like playing old school pump for a change. However, if you're planning to start playing pump regularly, I would suggest a nicer WWA or CCM pump kit (between $60 & $75) for the sole reason that they have two guide rods to prevent the twisting issues that plague the WGP kit.

I'll give it a 7 out of 10 as while it functions fairly well for it's purpose, there are MUCH better kits available that aren't plagued with twisting issues. It's price is it's real saving grace.
Rating:
7 out of 10Last edited on Sunday, May 22nd, 2005 at 10:09 pm PST
 

Review Comments
pfizerreg Thursday, April 20th, 2006 | 4:58 pm PST
Good review, although I've never really had that much trouble with twisting on my WGP kits. I am a bit happier with a WWA kit.
   

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