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deluxestogie Friday, July 8th, 2005
Period of
Product Use:
Less than a month37 of 40 people found this review helpful.

6 months
Products Used:
Stock E-Grip
Marker Setup: A-5, E-grip, JCS Duel Trigger, JCS front bolt, Phat XChamber, accumulator, anti-siphon on 20 oz. CO2, Flatline or 14" JJ Ceramic barrel, JCS Gold power tube, DOP RVA, stock hammer spring.
Strengths: Can drive the solenoid to any rate of fire.
Easy to use.
Weaknesses: None.
The Cyclone feeder currently can not keep up. See 2ndEdit below.
Review: My stock E-Grip maxed-out at just over 13 bps on full auto, as measured by a hand-held X-Radar chronograph.

The new WAS Equalizer board arrived from WAS safely packed inside a sturdy mailing tube nine days after the order was placed on their Web site. The board comes complete with microswitch, solenoid, capacitor and 9v battery connector. The position of the upper rotary switch (firing mode) on the stock Tippmann board is occupied by a momentary pressure switch, which will be depressed with a small tool, such as an Allen wrench, for turning the electronics ON and OFF for firing, as well as ON and OFF (together with a depressed trigger) for programming. The position of the stock lower rotary switch (rate of fire) is taken up by a multicolor LED that designates power-on and various programming states and settings.

The upgrade is installed by removing the E-grip from the marker, removing the trigger assembly, then unscrewing the two halves of the grip. Dropping in the "drop-in" upgrade was a little tedious for several reasons.
1. The capacitor is slightly larger than the stock, resulting in its popping out of place while fitting the opposite side of the grip.
2. The wires to the trigger microswitch are longer than stock. This is a problem because there is virtually no room for extra wire here. There is a narrow slot for the wires and a tight-fitting square pocket for the switch, with no spare room. Fitting this in place required carefully smushing the excess wire into a bundle and pressing it upward and rearward with an Allen wrench until there was room for the lower trigger guard screw land to close.
3. The battery wires are shorter than stock, requiring some additional fussing to figure out a route that leaves the ledge clear for the trigger assembly.

The stock actuator rod is re-used. After taking care to avoid crimping any of the newly placed wires, I closed the halves of the E-Grip (now WAS-Grip), installed my JCS Duel trigger, and re-attached the grip to the marker. The installation required about 15 minutes.

Marker setup: A-5 with polished internals, WAS-Grip, JCS Gold Power tube and front bolt, JCS Duel trigger, Flatline, Phat X-chamber, DOP Accumulator, DOP RVA, (stock hammer spring), CO2, and the stock Cyclone feeder (the newer version, with the "A" stamped on the bottom). XBall Bronze were used. The XBall Bronze have performed flawlessly with the same setup prior to installing the WAS board.

The WAS board must be OFF to begin programming. [ALSO THE MARKER SHOULD BE DEGASSED! It's not supposed to actuate the solenoid with trigger pulls during programming, but since you basically have to point the marker at your head in order to see the little blinkie light, degassing and unloading are a good idea.] With the board power OFF, I pressed and held the trigger while depressing the board's power switch for about 1/2 second. The LED turns red, then displays the color of the first programming setting (discussed below). The manual (available only on-line, and not shipped with the product) says that it will light up green when turning on programming mode, but mine only blinked red, then went to solid red:

Programming modes. Click the trigger once to change to the next programming mode. The LED displays the mode color:

Solid Red: Dwell programming mode. This is how long the solenoid presses against the actuator pin for each shot. I did not check the default value or alter it. It is supposed to be 6 ms according to the manual, but on this forum, the WAS rep has said that it was 10 ms, and should be set to 5 in order to conserve battery power.

Solid Green: Debounce programming mode. This should only be changed if your marker is double-firing.

Flickering Green: Rate of Fire Cap. This is the first one that you really need to do anything with. When the LED is flickering green, hold the trigger until it goes out. NOW WAIT. The LED will now blink, slowly enough for you to count, once for each ball per second at the current setting. Once this has stopped, click the trigger the number of times that corresponds to your desired rate. Then wait a few seconds for a multi-color, 4th of July fireworks blink, indicating that the setting has been recorded.

Alternating Green/Orange: Firing mode. This is the other setting you may want to change. It behaves like the ROF display. The values are 1 = Semi-auto (NPPL); 2 = 3 shot ramping (PSP); 3 = 3 shot full auto (NXL).

When I was done setting the ROF and Firing Mode, I pressed in the hex wrench again and held it until the LED showed solid red, indicating the board power was OFF.

Now, power OFF means that, unlike the stock E-Grip, which turns itself on when you pull the trigger, the WAS board is completely dead once the power has been manually turned off. It will not trip the sear until you turn it ON. To fire the marker, I used my Allen wrench to press the momentary switch while NOT pressing the trigger. The LED displayed Red, then went to solid green, to indicate that it was in A-5 mode. (If you are using this with other than an A-5, then read the manual on this point.) Throughout the time that the WAS-grip is active, the LED blinks red about once a second. In terms of battery use, I guess this is better than steady red. Since my finger covers it while holding the marker, its visibility should only be an issue in a night game. When done playing, the little tool needs to be inserted again to turn off the power. The board turned itself off automatically after 30 minutes of inactivity.

First run: Set to "3 shot full auto", 17 bps. Firing at 280 fps. As measured by the X-Radar, the rate was indeed 17 bps. Firing a half hopper, no balls were broken. It sounded as though no balls were skipped, though I did not count the balls and time the firing. The Cyclone seemed to perform flawlessly at 17 bps. (Yeah, you guys already knew it would.) This "3 shot full auto" seems to mean that just pulling and holding the trigger will not initially go to full auto. I had to fire off several single shots (maybe 3?), then it went to full auto.

Second run: Same firing mode, 18 bps. Firing at 280 fps. X-Radar said 18 bps briefly. AT this rate of fire, there were frequent ball skips, which, I suppose, means that the Cyclone upper sprocket is deflecting some of the balls upward. I did have 1 chopped ball and several barrel breaks. When the hopper was empty, the barrel was clean, with the front bolt-area of the receiver and the exit of the Cyclone showing a tiny amount of paint.
Conclusion: 1. WAS is shipping the boards, and the delivery time is reasonable.

2. The board fits the stock E-Grip slots and grooves, but requires a little patience to get it in, due to slight differences is sizes and wire lengths.

3. Programming the WAS required initial consultation with a printed copy of the on-line manual. The correspondence between the manual and the real thing are close enough to figure it out. Since there are only two settings that require any attention, I found it fairly easy to learn the sequence. Remembering to turn the darn thing off when I'm done firing will probably require some extensive battery-purchase therapy.

4. Within the range of settings tested (which included dry firing at 30 bps), the board seems to perform AS ADVERTIZED.

5. Unless you know some special incantations, the stock Cyclone is not likely to do much better than 18 bps.

6. Keep in mind that going from the 13 bps firing rate cap of the stock E-Grip to 17 bps is more than a 30% increase in useable, no-nonsense genuine firepower.

2nd EDIT: Using a QEV (quick evacuation valve) on the Cyclone piston allowed the A-5 to achieve a consistent 20 bps. My video of this is now available on the WAS Web site.
10 out of 10Last edited on Friday, September 30th, 2005 at 7:54 pm PST

Review Comments
Hardtime Wednesday, July 27th, 2005 | 3:21 pm PST
Very nice and well put review. Thanks for the effort.

Werks13 Tuesday, October 18th, 2005 | 5:02 pm PST
Great review makes me want to buy one right now but I have one question, where do I get the QEV to allow my cyclone to go 20 bps?

axe happy Monday, October 24th, 2005 | 9:14 pm PST
Same question as Werks13.. where can a person find the QEV? I'm interested in buying the board and having that valve would be a nice addition..

mxc1090 Sunday, October 30th, 2005 | 2:34 pm PST
Well I cant find video to c a pic or nething, but a cocker QEV should work just fine... Search froogle or ebay for eclipse or ANS qev's, they are, imo, the two best types.

Avid_pballer316 Monday, December 5th, 2005 | 8:25 pm PST
excellent review. you covered everything. i want to do some 3 man tournaments and was wondering if this will keep up with some of the higher dollar guns?

dirtyA-5_77 Sunday, December 25th, 2005 | 5:12 pm PST
hey if u guys buy a new e grip this come installed and if u purchase this u should really think about getting a jcs dual trigger (its adjustable) it only $25 ya and where can i get a QEV this will help against high dollar guns

Dan099 Saturday, March 11th, 2006 | 7:53 pm PST
the QEV is at

dirtyA-5_77 Tuesday, March 14th, 2006 | 4:07 pm PST
i think im just gonna get an Eclipse QEV

TheSpy11 Thursday, June 1st, 2006 | 6:33 pm PST
Just letting everyone know that chronograph BPS counters aren't very accurate. Stock Tippmann boards were consistently in the 14.25-15bps range before they upped them to about 17. They were never around 13bps.

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