-Lucky Stage 5
-Lucky Feed Neck
-Junkie Hose Kit
-Junkie Screw Kit
-And much more to come
It's a true BOB (Bolt Out Back) design, unlike its competitors.
Please see the review.
I woke up to find a small box at my doorstep. I figured it was a dvd I had ordered, but to my surprise it was from Lucky Paintball. Opening the box revealed stickers, a small baggie with a few things inside, tons of foam peanuts, and something bubble wrapped. When I saw the sticker had Lucky logo's all over them, my heart started pounding. In my hands was the infamous Lucky Stage 5. I was ready throw, literally throw everything else aside and tear open the bubble wrap to look at my gift. I didn't, thank god, I needed the things inside the baggie.
The Baggie included a small screw that held the eye plate cover on, and 2 washers. At further glance, the inside had rubber molded into it. Not a bad idea, then again, Lucky normally does it part there.
Unwrapping the bubble wrap revealed the Stage 5 body. The pictures shown on Lucky's forum does not do this justice. The milling was clean and crisp. The ano looked flawless. They could have done something about the rear cap, it looks like a woman's breast. Not that I don't like women's breasts, it looks rather dull on the body. All in all, I was quite pleased in my 175$ purchase. Or so I thought...
I had just came from the backyard when I found the box. I was getting my ION tuned, ready for the weekend. Getting ready to install the Stage 5, I had to remove all the stock parts. No problem, I do it allt he time. So I did...
Taking off the rear cap I saw a green thing. This turned out to be the bolt stop. My theory I had made month back was very very close to the actual design. And I'm still shocked this hadn't been made sooner. I'm glad it was Lucky that did it though. They're a good company. The could have included the inner oring for the bolt stop, but it wasn't a big deal. I took it off the stock bolt stop and continued getting it ready. Lubed everything that needed to be lubed, bolt and bolt stop were inside the body, and the capped was screwed on. I was ready to air it up.
I screwed on my Dye Throttle tank, which had about 2,000 psi left. I made sure to drop my reg, just to be safe. Raising it, I heard the ION air up. I think I felt like a giddy school girl at the time. My girlfriend didn't, I was grinning ear to ear, and she gave me a strange look. Turned the baby on, dried fired, and oooh baby, I think I needed to change my pants. I was all geared up for weekend to play. But that's when I discovered a few problem....
Hold the marker out in front of me, admiring it, I saw a light. Now this light wasn't glare off the body, I was looking right through the body. There was gap in-between the frame on the body. The gap was pretty bad, in my opinion. But not enough to say "Hey Lucky! You got some splay'nin to do!". I happily walked outside with a full hopper to really see what it could do. A few dry fires and finally the first ball made its way into the breach. *Splat* it shot dead on. But it was only one ball. I turn on my eyes, make sure my hopper was on, and I'm ready to really rip. I pulled the trigger at least 20 times and nothing happened. Looked at the Ion, there wasn't a ball in the breach. Oh I must have jammed, I thought. So I shook the hopper a bit until the light started rapidly flashing. "Blow Blow Blow" I ripped 3 rounds bore I start hearing pfft pfft pfft. I figured my battery was dead, so I replaced it and came back outside. I would get roughly 10 shots off then more pfft pffft pfft's. Frustrated, I went back inside to see what the problem was. Checked the orings, checked the noid, check EVERYTHING. I couldn't come up with a reason why this was happening. I was just out there with my then stock ion shooting ropes.
That night I had talked to Nosaj and explained some of the problems. He had said the gap was because of the frame, most likely. I figured it was the board, that's what it looked like to me. Anyways, after a week of talked, I came to the conclusion that the body was at fault. There was a machining problem. The problem was where the ball drops into the breach, wasn't milled out enough. The ball actually sat halfway down, so the marker wouldn't fire. E-mailed lucky, and he is now fixing the loading problem. As for the gap problem, Nosaj was right. Nosaj said the frame was warped, but if that was true, I'd be SOL when it comes to fixing the gap. After 10 minutes of looking at where the body ond frame sat, I grabbed a file and started filing away at my frame. There had been buildup of the powder coat finish, along with some aluminum that was in the way. You can find what I filed down at Lucky's site. So if you have a gap problem, I suggest checking it out.
Overall, the Lucky stage is a great product. Its defiantly ahead of everyone else. And who knows Element might be making his own design.
Every single thing is good about the Lucky Stage 5 except the Cons(see below)
-I had to file my stock frame down for the body to sit right. But this is more Smart Parts Fault than it is Lucky's.
-Had to send back my body to have the breach area re-machined to solve the loading problem
-The rear cap cold be a bt more aesthetic.
-Killa detents may not work(Told by a friend who owns a Stage 5 too.
The cons might seem bad, but in reality they're not. Sure I had to spend 10 minutes filing, but its Sp fault. And I did have to send my body away for a week, but Lucky paid shipping both ways!
Overall I'll give this bad boy a 9. It would have been a 10 if it wasn't for the machining issue.
Tired of taking your ION apart to service the internals? Then get the stage 5, for those of you who are LUCKY enough to. You wont be disappointed. And for those of you who have ordered it, and are waiting, you wont have the ball loading problem. because Lucky has them already fixed.
I'm 100% sure that it isn't Smart Parts fault that you had to sand your frame down. Why is it their responsibility to make sure aftermarket parts fit your Ion? They made the Ion and therefore should not have to comply with a small aftermarket company's idea of how the gun should be made.