The accuracy of this review is disputed. Please see discussion below.
Period of Product Use:
101 of 145 people found this review helpful.
More than 5 years
Similar Products Used:
Spyder Xtra, TL-R, and Rodeo, JT Excellerator 3.5e and TAC-5, Tippmann 98 and A5, more...
* Spyder TL-R with a new Phat feedneck and PMI Razzor 14" barrel.
* Spyder Sonix Pro with a new ACPball feedneck and a 12" J&J Precision barrel
* Game Face Vexor Eye with a custom ACPball delrin bolt
1. Feedneck / elbow.
2. Barrel, but not necessary.
3. Red dot dight and other decorative junk.
Slick styling, simple yet effective design
Cheap plastic feedneck elbow. Lack of volumizer or expansion chamber may hurt CO2 users.
11 FEB 2006 - Added a comment under the Detent section, changed rating from 8 to 7.
The MR1 is the electronic MR2's little brother, but it's an odd design. It's not as scenario-heavy as the JT TAC-5 but it's not as easy to use or as well-equipped as lower-cost mechanical markers like the Xtra or TLX. The rundown:
BARREL - 12" ported barrel with no muzzle break. Matte black so there's no glare to give away your position. Not very quietest, but that's normal for Spyders. Good internal finish, and better accuracy than average for a stock barrel. There is no volumizer shroud like on the MR2, so replacement barrels will be easy to add. Looks like a 2-piece but isn't.
FOREGRIP / EXPANSION CHAMBER - Foregrip is metal and vertical, shaped off the old AMG molds. It's just a gas-through foregrip, so there's no expansion chamber. No way to add a regulator since there's no front block to replace - the foregrip bolts directly into the body of the gun. Grip is a hair loose even with the bolts tightened.
VOLUMIZER - None. The body is capped where a volumizer would go.
TRIGGER / FRAME - Standard mechanical metal Kingman trigger frame. Trigger pull is 3/4" and not adjustable. Frame is all metal with very nice rubber grips. Safety is standard crossbolt for mechanical markers. Trigger has a little side play and is squeaky.
DROP / ASA - ASA works well enough and has an internal filter. Drop is short but angled. BIG HOORAY: The MR series uses IN-LINE SCREWS ON THE DROP FORWARD!!! No more offset Kingman-only holes! The line is black-coated stainless braided line.
DETENT - Integrated under the angled feed port's braces. Not a standard Kingman left-side ball-bearing. *** EDIT 11 FEB 2006 - This will cost the MR-1 a rating point. I played with the MR1 today, and through 4 games it successfully fired maybe 20 balls out of 500. The problem was the detent - the bolt sheared it clean off! The MRs use a tiny rubber finger as a detent and the MR1's aluminum bolt cut it right in half. It began double and triple feeding, which any marker with no detent could be expected to do. I didn't discover this until much later, when I got home to disassemble the marker (the detent is installed underneath the feedport plate). Why, oh why, did Kingman stop using their standard left-side ball-bearing detent??? ***
BODY - Minimal milling. Feedneck is an angled 45-degree stub with a cheap plastic adapter/elbow. Field stripping is a standard Kingman pull pin (held by a ball bearing, not a cotter pin). Body is all metal, but the marker is no heavier than a TL-R. The top of the marker comes with built-in 7/8" Weaver rails, interrupted by the feedneck and cocking knob. There are no bottom or side rails. Body is uniformly matte black with a tough finish; the cocking knob is also black.
STOCK - Shared with the MR2. Stock is open-frame skeletal design but is very stable and tough. Makes the already heavy MR1 even heavier, but it's worth it. The stock insertion is o-ringed so the marker may perform even better with it than without.
INTERNALS - Top-cocking marker (stacked-tube blowback) with an open rear end (unless the stock is attached). Internals may be shared with the TLX, TL-R, and Sonix Value / Sonix Pro, but I'm not 100% certain yet. Bolt is a standard Kingman aluminum venturi bolt. Interior finish is excellent. Velocity is adjusted via a rear set screw, not by the old Kingman thumbwheel.
Marker feels good but it's not as well-equipped as lower-end markers - it's basically a dressed-up Victor or a stripped Sonix Value. The finish is good but the short rail (the main attraction for scenario / milsim buffs) is barely useful. CO2 users may be hurt by the lack of expansion chamber and volumizer. It's a good, solid marker, but only if you're dead-set on a mechanical or really need a blasted-black paint job. Maybe if someone added the e-frame from a $60 refurb Imagine then this would be a contender. Otherwise it's an 8 out of 10, and I'm generous because I'm a Kingman geek.
7 out of 10
Last edited on Saturday, February 11th, 2006 at 8:50 pm PST
quote:Originally posted by funkypaintball I've had the same problem with my Mr1's detent, it was completely fine until it just happened to be cut clean off.
warchild71 first of all your it's NOOB not NEWB, and second off all... you said " Their is no ball detent issue with this marker. Its plain as day. When you take the marker apart make sure you reinstall the bolt correctly. I'm a newb and I figured it out in 10 seconds. Definitely user error and not the marker " Apparently it was a detent issue and you got a good gun off the shelf, because his didn't work well. If it was a user error, it would work out of the box because you said re-install it correctly.
quote:Originally posted by Tippy King What the heck do you mean when you say you can upgrade it almost as much as a tippmann. HA HA HA .What are there maybe 20 upgrades for a mr1? There are now over 200 upgrades for a tippmann!
You know nothing about upgrades apparently. You can't put a number on upgrades, your so wrong, but either way you can't say which gun has more upgrades. theres WAY MORE THAN 20 and i wish people would do their research before they start talking.
I've been playing with my lightly-modded MR1 for about 6 months now, and I've had no serious problems. My ball-detent is of the newer Timmy-style variety, and hasn't given me any trouble yet. Which isn't to say it can't happen... just that it hasn't happened to me.
I'm with Lil' C on this one. MY MR1 is a solid woodsball marker; straight out of the box, all you need is a decent barrel and hopper to have a respectable back-player marker.
quote:Originally posted by sniper93 my friend sold me mr1 but my problem is that the balls curve like crazy!! What should i do b/c i don't have the money to get another barrel. So what do you guys suggest?
dont buy cheap paint, check your paint, maybe you had a paintball get chopped, and if none of those solve it, save for a new barrel.( another suggestion is get an HPA tank, they are extremely expensive but they pay off)
the only reason this gun would shoot "20 out of 500" paintballs is simple. you more than likely disassembled the marker before this incindent and reinserted the bolt upside down. there is a specific notch cut into the bolt so that the rubber indent doesnt get cut off. but if its inserted upsidedown,,,,, the notch is no longer there.
Dispute: The bolt, when properly reassembled, does not come in contact with the detent. There is a recess in it that goes over the detent. The bolt will only sheer off the detent if it is reinstalled upside down.
quote:Originally posted by DokWatson The detent in this marker is fine, the bolt has a slot that allows the bolt to slide past it harmlessly. If you install the bolt upside down, this slot is on the opposite side, therefore shearing off the little rubber 'finger' detent. I dont think it would re-cock considering the gas port is on the wrong side...but it would definately shear off a detent
My detent was sheared off before I ever took the bolt out for the first time. The detent sticks out further than the slot is cut in. It reduces the chance but doesn't eliminate it.