What you really need for good play with it:
Ball "rollout" detent (CCI detent rings or Chipley Custom barrel backs or Palmer s wedgits)
Anti-doublefeed ball detent (I have adapt Kingmann ball detend from Spyder Victor)
Bottom line & 12oz with antisiphon tube - when you are going on gas CO2
Raised sight rail & 9oz with siphon tube - when you are going on liquid CO2 (back-bottle)
Quickchanger - when you are stock class player
Red dot sight (I sugest ADCO Sure Shot as cheap and durable sight)
40-50rnd hooper or stock feeder
What is good for it:
Anti-doublecock security (I have adapt familiar hammer-trigger system from Nelson guns)
Bolt modification - fourth o-ring for better support
Polished internals & barrel honing
Lightened (from stock 33g you can go to less than 17g) hammer
Shawet cup seal stem (to 3mm in middle)
New (autococker style) valve body with only one big opening and larger (7mm) hole diameter around stem
What is becomingly on it:
Bolt modification - undershot bolt or velocity adjuster trought reduction of gas flow
Some additional o-rings up to different places for sillencing cocking mechanism
.45 grip frame
Short custom 8" barrel or long 16" ported barrel with tacked, massive, "integral" silencer
Laser sight (just for fun, and intimidating newbies, not for use)
After some tinkering work one of the best C/A, DF pumps of ever
Out of the box NOT virtually unusable
All other people on the net are saying that Sterlings are one of the best pumps (that's why I with my friends bought three of these). I only have experience with the first production run spyder threated, Sterlings Bronze with right feed. So all that is written here is referring ONLY to this type of Sterling. I don't know much about Sterling STP, Sterling STP Turbo, Sterling Silver, or others (first non-spyder threated or late center feed with ball detent) Sterling Bronze, but my type of Sterling Bronze can be really excelent marker... but ONLY after a lot of (and highly expensive) custom work (it took me more than one year to accomplish all that tinkering work). In short: it is imho very good as an intermediate product, but out of the box it's virtually unusable. So, this marker is really good ONLY after a lot of custom work (see above what all you need to do)!!!
Main problem here are permanent breaks and rollouts. The diameter of chamber and stock barrel is too large for overwhelming majority of present paint and there are NO ball detents included. There is neither a lockout of bolt or anti-doublecock security, which coupled together with Sterling's very light pump stroke leads to the extended bolt opening itself on it's own and for the player it is very easy to "manualy" doublecock (= lot of breaks due to "failure of human factor"). Conclusion: regularly breaks paint or rolls out from barrel!!
As with many pumps, axis of sighting is too close to ASA, which makes aiming with backbottle and (modern full-face protection) mask impossible. Raised sight rail or bottom line helps with that, but bottom line mount is quite costly and not easy obtainable, because you need Euro-grip bottom line adapter (like for Trracer/Maverick pump) for this type of Sterling.
Velocity is not always adjusted correctly out of the box and it is not too easy to set it - there are not velocity adjustment screws and it is not possible to adjust velocity through tension of springs without disassembly (and change, cut or underlay springs).
So those were disavantages, all headaches that you MUST resolve. Now the good stuff:
Sterling Bronze is little heaviest than Phantom, but a lot more rugged and still a lot lighter than WGP Sniper. He has perhaps most benefits of both and some in addition. With stock barrel and 7-9oz CO2 tank as back-bottle (liquid configuration), he is short, compact and well balanced. With 12oz CO2 tank (or HPA - low pressure, gas confiiguration) he haves very good stability and manoeuvrability.
Key internals that are really under stress (cup seal stem, valve body, hammer, trigger, cocking rod) are made out of match-grade materials. Body and barrel are made of cheap aluminium alloy (no sweet brass or stainless stell yet..), but this seems to not affect endurance or performance, they are lightweight and have perfect corrosion resistance.
If you know the form, Sterling works even so good on HPA, 12g, liquid or gas CO2 with only small changes (after playing with the springs for a while). Its basic structure is a very smart evolved - all parts are simple and handily available, the marker is very easy to clean (even on field) and resistant to penetration of dirt inside the mechanism.
When is good adjusted and has some good paint, its accuracy is simply GREAT (on unregulated CO2, with honned stock barrel and RPS Marbalizer paint diversion below 90mm (3.5 inch) circumscribed circle on 16m (50 feet) distance) and velocity is very consistant (with good solved CO2 and best paint commonly +/- 3 fps for 10 shots). Pump Stroke is legendary, light and smooth out of the box (some say much more better than Carter) and with some mods (fourth bolt o-ring for better support, polished internals) it can be even better. Due to this pump stroke charakteristics, the Sterling has an unusually good fire rate on pump (3 aimed shots or 9 bps with autotrigger are achievable) and is handy even for small kids and weak Ladies' .
With 10-inch stock barell is the Sterling quite loud (amazing, intimidating), but on other side, it can be extremely well suppressed with some mods (with lightened hammer, on liquid CO2 and with longer barrel it can be incredibly quiet). Stock barrel is very good, obviously one of the best stock barrels on market (after honing it seems to be minimally even so good as 12" Smartparts Teardrop, 14" or 16" J&J Ceramic - I know that exsactly because I own them all), so there is really no need to replace it, but on the other side, it is too short for snipers (loud) and unnecessarily long for CQB (an aftermarket barrel might make the paintgun quieter or more compact, but isn't needed for range and accuracy).
As I already said: Sterling Bronze is not a good marker out of the box, and is far more expensive with all the mods that it really needs to be usable. But as a high-quality intermediate product it is CHEAP. After some custom work, he can be compared with the best (doesn't matter if $300 or $1000) pump-markers. Accurate, durable, undemanding, compact, rapid firing, whispering killing machine...
Great, extraordinary, high-performance, first-class pump-marker... after a LOT of custom work. Be prepared to pay for that, doesn't matter whether money or work and time (or both). It is NOT a good choice for beginners (has many problems that are not easy to identify or resolve out of the box), but for a competent custom enthusiast... take it, work on it, fall in love with it... smash the counterparty.
I give my customized Sterling Bronze a 10 as a rating, but i give the stock a 2, so the average is: 6.
6 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, January 10th, 2008 at 1:08 pm PST
You have to consider that the Sterling Bronze IS in face a simple, cheap, entry level pump. Don't expect any top class performance of it out of the box. Sure, with alot of tinkering it can become one, but you shouldn't expect it from a stock model.
Therefor, I think your rating is somewhat off. You should rate it for what you are supposed to expect for something in this class, not compare it with a high level super fine tuned marker like a Buzzard...
quote:Originally posted by P4p3Rc1iP ... Therefor, I think your rating is somewhat off. You should rate it for what you are supposed to expect for something in this class, not compare it with a high level super fine tuned marker like a Buzzard...
The problem is that this "low-end" (really I do not think that he is so cheap...) pump marker is virtually unusable out of the box. He has not bad accuracy, or bad pump stroke, or something such like... he has simply huge problems with breaks and rollouts, so you can not depend on it. He has not best efficiency so he is not best on powerlets, but with CA, you will have big problems with aiming. Setting of the timing mechanism and the muzzle velocity is often bad out of the box.
So, in the out of the box state, much cheaper and older Sheridan PGP will overrun them easily because he is a lot more reliable and because he do not needs necessarily some repairs or mods. Out of the box, even common Trracer or Hornet will be better and in comparsion with SL-68II...
These first production run, spyder threated, Sterlings Bronze are simply not "rental markers" but only intermediate products.
And 6 out of 10 are imho really not so low for gun which is unusable out of the box :-).
Last edited on Thursday, January 4th, 2007 at 1:32 pm PST