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Dees_Troy Sunday, February 26th, 2006
Period of
Product Use:
Less than a month
More than 5 years
Products Used:
Stock 2002 cocker valve
Rat 3:16
Osiris (only that that really compares)
Marker Setup: e2 eBlade with Powerex 9.6V battery
Martin Mini-Block Cocker Body (sometimes referred to as halfback or halfblock)
Shortened pump rod and appropriate delrin bolt and custom back block
MP4 Ram
Tickler LPR
Twisted products LPC / front block screw
CP Shorty HPR
MQ Valve
Reloader B
45/45 Crossfire tank
Full Scepter Barrel kit with all 7 available inserts
Strengths: Lighter than stock
Weaknesses: A bit expensive
Not readily available
Review: To get one right now, you have to head to pbnation and PM Ronin23. There's supposed to be a waiting list, but, depending on when you ask him, you may get yours right away. Mine was in my hand in 1 week.

Installation was a breeze. The instructions are plenty detailed. If you've replaced a valve in a cocker before, you won't have any trouble. I had mine installed in less than an hour easily. While installation is pretty simple, there are plenty of things you can do wrong that can destroy the MQ valve, so read your instructions at least twice before you install it. There's plenty of time to read the instructions while you wait for the new valve to arrive anyway, so you have no excuse.

Chronographing was also very easy. With nothing but the SON time and your HPR to set, it's pretty easy to dial it in precisely. Though they recommend 4ms dwell and 280-300psi, I was able to run about 250psi and a 2.7ms dwell and get 286fps. Perhaps the higher voltage from the Powerex batteries helped lower the dwell time. A fully charged Powerex is putting out something around 10.4V. Usually mini-cocker bodies require even more pressure, but mine is working great with a low dwell and low pressure.

The MQ valve is very light compared to your stock components. My gun actually is nose heavy now because of all of the weight taken out of the tail end. Also, since the MQ valve's parts don't move around as much, there is less "kick" to the marker when shooting.

I can't really speak much for consistency as I didn't have good paint to chronograph with. I did get pretty good efficiency. With 2100psi in a 45/45, I shot about 500 rounds at 286fps. However, once the tank reached 1000psi left, I had to refill. The balls were barely leaving the barrel and fell to the ground in 20 feet. I used to be able to get decent fps at low rates of fire down to 500 or 600psi. Still, overall efficiency should be around 1500 shots for a full 4500psi in my 45cu in tank, much better than before.

Speed: My gun was incredibly fast before this upgrade, so I can't honestly rate the MQ valve's speed. Current settings without paint are:
CDEL: 5.0ms
CON: 10ms
COFF: 15ms
ROF = 50cps
It's hard to be 100% sure if the bolt is opening all of the way, but I put my finger behind the bolt at the point where it should be all the way open. When I fire the gun, I can feel the bolt touch my finger. Since there's no way to get paint fed into the gun or pull the trigger 50 times per second, it is somewhat theoretical. Suffice it to say I should have no trouble with 15bps ramping.

Since they say the 4.8V Racegun frames need a longer dwell due to its lower voltage, that leads me to believe that your velocity may drop a little as your battery drains. Chances are you won't see much of a change in velocity until your battery is really low, but it's worth noting.
Conclusion: It's a great product. It's one that actually works as advertised and is pretty simple to install. If you need lighter and faster, this is a good upgrade worth considering.
10 out of 10Last edited on Monday, February 27th, 2006 at 5:35 am PST

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