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Merc4Hire Saturday, March 25th, 2006
Period of
Product Use:
6 months
Paintball
Experience:
More than 5 years
Similar
Products Used:
I have 4 different WGP styles..
Standard 2003 OK kinda heavy but lighter than AIM solid construciton
Orracle lighter, better looking, but threads for pump arm are loose
Stock 2004 style very similar to Orracle with the same attributes but milled to match 2003/ 2004 bodies. also has loose threads
Marker Setup: an e1 Zero B OrrAccle w/ belsales ram & Eclipse QEV's, supafly bolt, Redz on off, Freak kit, Nitro duck 90/3000 etc. Qloader with Cusotomized mounting or Egg

2k3 body w/e2 and eclipse everything except Rat 3:16 valve and Killa detent, WGP unimount, 2nd Freak kit.

Outkast w/ tickler & eclipse ram & old JAM bolt in delrin (exact same wieght as Orracle bolt) I use the Orracle Kaner with this.

Custom body cocker Mech w/ Orracle pneumatics (shoulda been eclipse/ belsales)+1 QEV (too lazy to thread back or buy better ram), Dye ultralight 12"

5 2004 black WGP Prostock Autococker. SP 14" teardrop barrel, Shockteck Supafly 2004 style black/teal delrin & pin, Egg II/ reloader, Check It unamount, kapp twista rod, aluminum pump rod, Belsales hollowpoint 3way, STO Ram+ eclipse QEV

6 2K3 Piranha STS eforce , empire reloader, teardrop 14" or Freak kit, , spring kit,

a coupla more Spyder type blowbacks

an ancient and cool Sheridan PGP with Holster
Strengths: It isn't dye twistlock.
The cocking rod threads are nice and tight.
Weaknesses: Shape, Fit

Small hole for cocking rod... !
Review: Well this is a back block. it works, there is not alot to it.

Mine came on my Custom body cocker which has 1 of 50 milling. aparrently it was made on custom commission by AIM for a guy. Mine doesn't have the notches at the bottom shown in the picture above, but is otherwise Identical. It is pretty much rectangular in shape.

Strength. Threads for cocking rod are good. WGP sometimes over works the tap and makes these threads loose so that the pump arm can wiggle and wear out the threads as well as rotate without locktite. These threads don't wiggle.

The weaknesses. None are horrible but they add up to make this a sub par back block.

The back block works fine, but it is alot heavier than it needs to be wich doesn't help any aspect of autococer performance. they could have milled away or drilled about half the metal without much work or compromising strength. It is odd to me that aim does so much complex and generally wierd looking milling on their bodies, yet basically has a brick on the back where it actually effects performance.

it is kinda ugly due to the chunky milling. It also wont line up with any milled body. pretty much just matches 2000 - 2002 square bodies and maybe some FBM Square bodies. Probably matches some AIM Cockers


it has sharp corners which are kinda poky and can scrape your hand

I would not have bothered to review this except for the bigger annoyance I list below.

***.doesnt have adequate room for most cocking rod bumpers. the hole for the cocking rod knob just clears the knob. I have a standard WGP hex cocking rod, and I had to cut down my bumper to keep it from randomly hanging up on the block. When this happened, it limited the bolt assembly travel by a little over a quarter inch. this meant the bolt didn't open enough for a ball to drop which made an automatic short stroke. It was easily solved by cutting the rubber bumper around the hex to make sure there was extra clearance but it looks shoddy. AIM could have easily used a slightly larger bit to make the hole bigger it would have prevented this stupid problem and saved weight.

If you didn't care about looks and anodization, you could make it weigh half as much and round the corners with about 10 minutes of drilling with 2 sizes of drill bits and shaping with a Vixen Rasp. You could get rid of about half of the metal and still have a strong block.


Conclusion: If your gun came with this it is not a big deal. no reason to change it unless you are trying to reduce cocking mass, which will make your gun nicer. But don't go and purposefully buy one of these, there are alot of nicer ones on the market.

I would reccommend either a CCM Delrin block for strength weight and looks, or a *second* generation Slik Products, for ultimate lightness that won't break. They all cost about the same.

I give it a 4 because it is below the average aluminum backblock in quality, function and style.
Rating:
4 out of 10Last edited on Saturday, March 25th, 2006 at 2:43 pm PST
 

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