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Comments on 3022's Review

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3022 Sunday, April 23rd, 2006
Period of
Product Use:
1 year7 of 7 people found this review helpful.

Paintball
Experience:
3 years
Similar
Products Used:
Sheridan PGP (short pistol variant of P68SC), ZGP-94 (Czech PGP clone),
Sheridan PGP2001 (newer PGP version with longer barrel and some other mods), Sterling Bronze and Kingmann New Hammer in classic C/A just like as in Stock Class setup
Marker Setup: Old style PGP (many), PGP2001, ZGP-94 (two), Sterling Bronze (three), P68SC (two), P68AT, AGD Automag, AGD MiniMag, Kingmann New Hammer, Brass Eagle Tigershark, Zap ZXS-200, Spyder Compact (two), Crosmann 3357 Spotmarker, Tiberius Tac-8
Recommended
Upgrades:
Locking of grips together with black electrician tape
Locking feed tube cap to pump rod with whipcord
Polished internals & barrel honing
Removing the tournament velocity adjuster and sealing the bolt
Lightened (15g) hammer, little valve work & new spring combo for better efficency
Wedgits
Adjustable rearsight
Silencer or "muzzle break" (not only for silencing but but also for barell chase protection)
Strengths: Accuracy & range
Silent shoots
Well made & durable
Low profile & compactness
Cool look & feeling
Weaknesses: Bad CO2 efficency out of box
No ball detent
Rare
Review: If you are interested in the Stock class, then this is something what you should regard. P68SC is a classic, old shool, stock class marker. It has nail accuracy and range, cool look, silent shots and the feeling of a shotgun. It is really pleasure to play with. He shoots nail out of the box and after some little homemade tinkering work, without expensive mods and accessories it can be daringly ranked among the best stock class markers.

It is basically old Sheridan PGP pistol modified for long range shooting - with longer barrel, new centerfire bolt, quickstrip, oversized CO2 change knob, five ball larger magazine capacity, longer axis of sighting...

The performance on long-range is really long way better than in PGP. This gun is able
to get high velocities more easily, has range of best C/A guns, shoots with flat trajectory, extremely silent and accurate. The CO2 efficiency however doesn't look to be as good as PGP - with stock P68SC first ten shoots are better than stock PGP, but the next are comonly worse (You can expect only 18 usable shots from stock P68SC in compare to 30 of stock PGP, but 8 of them are really great (above 255 fps)).

So, stock P68SC definitely needs some performance tune. Because I live in Europe, I'm not able to send my P68SC to Palmer, Punisher or other, well known Sheridan masters, I had to make this work by myself. If you decide to do the same, I sugest going through these mods:

Bolt sealing: there are MAJOR leaks trought the tournament velocity adjuster placed in centerfire bolt - after sealing the bolt, the velocity of my P68SC in his first 13 shoots increased on average by 45 fps!!!. Substitute the velocity adjuster screw with standart set screw (it is 5/16 UNF lenght 1/2"), seal them in threads with teflon tape (or better with some Loclite sealing compound) and use some tin soldering for enclosure of the old holes for removed pin and balls underneath the rear o-ring.

Barrel honing: with this mod you reduce friction in barrel - the black paint overspray must go down into sweet gold miror finish (trust me - you'll come to love in brass after that). Buy fine grinding paste for brass and aluminium, some thin-bodied oil and use wood stick with piece of cloth as lap.

Valve work: you need to boost the valve air flow for better efficiency. Shaved cup seal stem in the middle (to 3mm) will help, but you also need to enlarge the holes in stock valve body (central opening to 6.5mm, four holes to 5.5mm, round the channel bottom into R3) or better (here wil be really big difference), manufacture new valve body with only one big (eliptical 6,2x7mm) opening on diameter, shaped to opening in barrel chamber (see how the late Autococker valve looks).

Lightening the stock hammer: eliminates bouncing and will help with accelerating opening/closing of the valve (that will nearly remove the intermediate positions). From stock 43g you can go to (little) less than 15g! The hammer is manufactured from very well hardened stainless steel, so you must grind it away (in middle part). You can even use a common drill press with small grinding wheel.

Other valve/hammer spring combo: not only to compensate the preceding hammer lightening, but for the next performance enthancements - helps with efficiency and sound reduction trought accelerating opening/closing of the valve. The Spyder springs goes good in P68SC valve, the main spring you can toughen up by preloading it (best is to buy aftermarket PGP velocity adjuster).

So, because I have performed exactly that, I'm quite sure that after some homemade tinkering in this style, you can expect 18 really GREAT (285-260 fps) and (likewise really) SILENT shots and other 15 short-shots (above 220 fps) as reserve from one twelve gram - not best in compare to known stayers like Phantom or Carter, but good enought and with such (compact, accurate and silent) marker it should be really enough.

...and with really thoroughgoing tune (after spendig many hours, shooting hunderts of paintballs and tenths of powerlets), you can get even nearly the same efficiency as has Glen Palmer Superstocker (30 shoots above 260 fps - mine is already in this condition) - the only one fundamental advantage of Superstocker above P68SC whitch is not easy to fix is that he has vertical placed powerlet which is better for gas/liquid CO2 separation.


Results of my accuracy test:

P68SC after the light homemade tuning whitch was described above, using RPS Marbalizers, muzzle velocity in first shots set to ~280 fps. Diversion of first 16 shoots below 90mm (3,5 inch) circumscribed circle on 16m (50 feet) distance... and because the gun has no stock, im pretty sure that the major part of the inaccuracy is caused by the shooter (me).


Other characteristics:

P68SC preserves low profile of his predecessor (all what will opponent see is 3 tubes and a mask) but has better ergonomics due to the longer foregrip (that is pleasing especialy along with guns tuned to be efficient (which have typically hard pump stroke due strong valve/hammer springs)) and axis of sighting.

The stock plastic grips are the same as PGP, a little weak and tend to crack especialy in cold, but if they are broken, you can easy glue them.

Barrel is non-removable (integral), manufactured from first-class brass. Is describet as 14 1/4" long but in reallity he is only 12" long (real barrel lenght after subtraction of the bolt lenght). After honing looks really phenomenal... but you can have little problem when is damaged... and all that brass around makes P68SC a little heavy... but you will learn to deal with it and use it as advantage while aiming.

P68SC has good feeding (does not break balls, no double feeding even without detents) and the same problems with some modern, small-bore paint (what sometimes rolls out the barrel) like PGP - you need to find your paint - I sugest RPS Marbalizers - or get wedgits or solder-in small block on outsite diameter and fit the autococker detent.

There are two variants of P68SC - one (pre '96) with old style valve and second (post '96) with new "carriage valve". The new valve already has only one opening on diameter (witch were mentioned above in case of performance tune - what is a lot better for efficiency) and needs not special tools to be removed. The old style valve can be removed only with special Sheridan valve tool (5/16 inch key), and his valve body with four openings and channel on the diameter is not so efficient, but he has little better potential for performance tuning (central diameter in the valve body can be little larger here). I like the old style valve better, because they allow more alterations, but on other side, I think that the new style valve was good improvement because the marker in stock condition is more efficient with them and his manufacturing is easier (not so much work with the bottom pipe and with mounting) that the old style.


The main "weakness" of this gun is the same as with other stock class markers - limited capacity and expensiveness of CO2 (powerlets). But with such a marker shall be little shots enough, and then, you spend only a little money on paint, so costs will not be the problem... or you could swith to C/A, remote or integral refillable (bleed-fill) tank.

As with all Stock class markers, even with P68SC you need some practice for effective use (rock n' cock, limited paint and gas), but than... it shoots straight and far, silent, is compact and with the adrenaline during a firefight you can get up to 2 aimed shots per second. It is a good weapon for mobile, sneak, smart, accurate play.
Conclusion: Stock class Phantoms, Carters, Worr/WGP Snipers should be today considered as better, but with good treatment, this old beauty still remains extremely dangerous... and costs less. It is a perfect marker for that price and one of the best arround. With fresh CO2 it is the perfect sharpshooter gun - extremly accurate, with very good range, silent shots, low profile and relatively small size. It has comonly bad efficiency out of the box, but after some homemade tinkering (which costs you nearly nothing except some time and work) it is at least tolerable. So, if you are interested in this style of play and you can find one, get one. It is really a pleasure to play with this old piece of brass... and stalk semis with her :-).

I give "only" 9 because PPS Superstocker is simply better (but it is not palmerized P68SC?) and the SC nelsons have a better efficiency.
Rating:
9 out of 10Last edited on Wednesday, March 5th, 2008 at 12:54 pm PST
 

Review Comments
pfizerreg Friday, May 4th, 2007 | 12:30 pm PST
Excellent review. Thank you 3022!
   

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