I bought this after Ken Crane blew up my old LPR. Oh well. No one is perfect.
Shipping took about nine days. I got it (finally) and pulled out my old LPR and prepped the STD model. I greased the LPR body o-rings and slid it in. Make sure to follow the instructions to the letter, especially the part about hand tightening the body when you screw it in. If you don't, it will be very difficult to remove the whole apparatus. More on that later.
I aired it up, no leaks. 65 psi is ideal for the first few cases, don't change it until then. I took my uber setup outside and chronoed. I got +/- 20 with a perfect paint to barrel (Switch/Xball Gold). I was a little concerned, but I decided it just needed to be broken in. I also noticed my gun had a silent leak, and I figured out that one of the LPR body o-rings had broken and was slowly leaking. But when I tried to take the LPR assembly out, only the adjustment cap (the part that sticks out the front of the gun) came off. This is why you don't want to overtighten the assembly when you install it. When the adjustment cap comes off, the other 3 inches of LPR is still screwed inside the body. I carefully unscrewed the rest of the LPR, even with about a quarter inch of thread sticking out. After several minutes of that, the whole thing came out and I was able to replace the o-ring. No more leakage, and the consistency tightened up to +/- 4.
The next weekend, I went out and blew a couple cases through it. It was not looking that great over the chrono, but I let it be.
Since then, I have run another half a dozen or so cases of air/paint through it, and I turned the pressure on the LPR to about 60. I chronoed again, and I was +/- 1 AT WORST! Yes, that is right. My consistency between 5 shots was : 292.1 292.5 291.2 290.9 291.3
The old LPR was plus or minus three at best. Amazing.
If you like your WDP LPR, don't bother with this. Spend the 65 bucks on something else. But if yours is going bad or if you want top-notch performance, you will not be disappointed with the STD LPR.