Brass Eagle Stingray II
Tippmann Model 98
WGP 99 Stock Autococker
WGP Trilogy SF Competition in black
* Lapco Big Shot stainless steel barrel
* Shockteck #5 Drop Forward with on/off
* Lower trigger setscrew replaced
VL eVolution II loader with Y-Board
PMI Pure Energy 68ci 3000psi tank
[Optional] Trigger setscrew (see review)
[Optional] Barrel kit (if needed; see review)
[Optional] Compressed air system
[Optional] Dropforward (if needed; see review)
[REQUIRED] 9v Battery
[REQUIRED] Allen Wrenches
Adjustable electronic trigger
Modes for most major tournaments
Weight (just over 3 pounds stock)
The Trilogy series of autocockers is WGP's attempt at a low-end marker, and they failed miserably at it. The only thing low-end about the WGP Trilogy Competition SF is the price (which really isn't that low). It has solid construction, simple maintainence, trouble free operation, and the legendary accuracy that's expected out of an autococker, in a nicer looking package.
With a retail price of $270 at most stores, it's priced a between the Ion (which is the main competition) and the high-end Spyders and similiar blowbacks. While autococker junkies, who will generally replace every part in the marker, may complain about not having the must up-to-date gadgets in this, if you look at the marker as a whole, it is capable of doing anything that the more expensive, custom autocockers can do, and it will have no problem going toe to toe agianst markers like the Smart Parts Shocker or the Eclipse Egos. It also has the benefit of being rather rare and unique.
The marker is capable of over 18 balls per second in semi-automatic, which is far faster than the fingers of most players and faster than almost all hoppers. Thanks to a break beam eye system, the rate of fire is limited more by the loader and the player than by the marker.
Instead of the traditional front block, all of the pneumatics that control recocking are mounted directly on the body.
The ram is a standard stock WGP ram, the same one that is used on the 2004 Pro Stocks. For those of you who like mostly useless upgrades, this can be replaced with any aftermarket ram that does not have QEVs or TRVs installed. Because of the compact nature of the mounting, there is only enough room to put one on the front.
The three-way is built into the body, so this cannot be replaced with an aftermarket model, but with an electronic trigger, there is no reason to upgrade anyways.
The low pressure regulator, which supplies the gas to recock the marker, is a small, fixed output unit that can't be adjusted without disassembly. This works fine, as it is preset at the factory.
The stock barrel is 14" long, with porting over the last 2.5" of barrel. I measured the bore to be 0.691", so it's a bit on the big side. The stock barrel is extremely accurate with matched paint. Due to their closed bolt firing system, autocockers are a bit more fussy on paint/barrel match than most other markers, so unless you play at a BYOP field where you can match your paint to your barrel, I would recommend a barrel kit so you can match your barrel to your paint.
TRIGGER, FRAME, AND BOTTOMLINE
The Trilogy SF series all feature the same electronic grip frame. It has two screws to adjust the trigger, one to control how far you need to pull before firing, and one to control the total length of pull. I found that I could get it down to about 3mm (measured at the bottom of the trigger) using the stock screws, but the bottom screw (used to control the total length the trigger can travel) isn't long enough to get the trigger to be really short. A quick trip to a hardware store, and for $5 ($4.65 for locktite, $0.35 for a setscrew) I was able to get a longer screw in there and adjust the trigger down to approximately 0.7mm, though I found this too short to be comfortable and set it to around 1.5mm. [I'll try to add a close-up picture of this]
The frame is not a standard 45 frame, but it is very close. It has finger groves on the front, and it is large enough that, unless you have large hands, you can get three fingers onto the grip below the trigger if you want to. The grip panels are plastic, and resonable comfortable.
The modes are controlled by switches inside the grip. The marker can shoot a modified full auto (which requires a few trigger pulls before it activates), two ramping modes, and semi-auto, so it can be used in any tournament. There is a simple on/off button on the back of the frame, along with an LED that can flash a color and pattern to indicate the mode of fire and if the eyes are enabled.
The bottomline is an angled one, run with a stainless steel hose. This marker is capable of running off CO2, but you will get much better performance of compressed air or nitrogen. I'm only 5' 5" tall, with short arms for my height, so I found the marker a bit long without a dropforward, especially with a 68ci tank attached.
FEED NECK AND BODY
The body is a nice black matt anodice, without any fancy milling. It's a [non-blowback] stacked tube design, with much of the extra metal milled away so it doesn't have the "box" look of many earlier cockers.
The feed neck is removable and non-clamping, though several companies make clamping models if you really feel the need. I had to sand my loader to get it to fit, so I found no need to spend the extra money on clamping feed neck.
The bolt in the Trilogy Competition SF is a black delrin bolt with an open face and two o-rings. It works well, and I didn't see any reason to replace it.
INLINE REGULATOR AND VALVE
The inline regulator is the same regulator that appeared on the 2004 ProStock autococker. It has to be disassembled in order to be adjusted, but it comes pre-adjusted from the factory, so this isn't an issue. The output is extremely consistant. All of the WGP regulators use near identical internals in different bodies, so this regulator will give you the same performance that the regs on all the STO autocockers get.
The valve is not a standard Autococker valve; WGP changed things for the Trilogy series. It runs on the same basic principal, just in a different package. The downside of this is that, if you feel the need to upgrade, there aren't many options. I haven't had this marker long enough to make an accurate statement about its efficiency.
MAINTAINENCE AND TIMING
The marker comes pre-timed from the factory, and thanks to a liberal amount loctite, it will stay timed unless you mess with it.
Maintainence is simple. All you need to do is apply petroleum grease to the bolt, which is normal for delrin bolt markers, and put a few drops of oil in the ASA every 2-3 case of paint to lube up the internals.
The marker comes with a nice WGP barrel bag, a length of spare pneumatic hose (strange, since I've never heard of a pneumatic hose breaking), a few tank o-rings, an allen wrench to adjust the velocity, a manual, a page with instructions on the different firing modes, and a DVD. The DVD is aimed at new players, so most of it will seem like common sense to most players, but it does cover maintainence and frequently asked questions, so it is worth watching.
I did find it interesting that they provide you with an allen wrench to adjust the velocity, but not one to remove the grip panels. The grips need to be removed in order to install a battery (which is not included), so you will need a smaller allen wrench to remove your grips before you'll have much use for the wrench to adjust the velocity.
I own one, and I'm glad I did. I've been a fan of WGP markers for a long time, and this marker is capable of keeping up with anything out there. It's a reliable and accurate marker, with no real upgrades required in order to be competitive.
I've rated this marker as a 7, a little above average. For it's price, it's a good deal, but not excellent. There are no major problems or required upgrades with this marker, but it's not perfect
After having this for a while, I've noticed that the finish on the grip frame is different than the finish on the rest of the marker, and seems to get scratched up much easier. I'm starting to suspect that the grip frame in simply painted, while the rest of the marker is annodized.
I'm getting approximately 700 shots out of a 68 ci 3000psi HPA system, so efficiency is acceptable but not great.
quote:Originally posted by new_Faction64 Are there any major differences between this and the Pro?
1. The Pro comes with a mini-Karner barrel kit with two backs (0.689 and _____) and two fronts (12" and 14"). This comes with a single, one-piece 14" barrel.
2. The Pro has a 15 degree forward angled ASA built into the body. This has a straight down ASA built into the body.
3. The Pro has a gloss black finish on most of the body with a gloss, clear anodize accents. The Competition is available in either dust black or in a glass black-to-blue fade.
4. The body on the competition is smoothe all the way back with no cosmetic milling. The Pro has what looks like three teardrops, at about a 45 degree angle, milled on the back of each side of the body. The WGP ads refer to these as "3D Milling"...
quote:Originally posted by NYz own pballer is this a good gun 2 get since i nevr had an electric gun b4? if not, wat is?
First off, and I don't mean to be rude, but you'll get better responses if you use proper grammar.
What is a "good gun" is a lot of personal preference. A Trilogy SF Comp isn't the fastest thing out there, and needs to be treated right or it's not going to preform well. If you're just after an electronic gun, and don't want to take the time to really learn what you're doing, you should look at getting a Spyder Pilot ACS. If you want something with upgrade potential, and you are willing to take the time and learn what you're doing, this is a decent marker.
As someone else put it, an autococker is a "thinking man's gun". It is more complex than some of the other things out there, and it needs to be treated properly, but it will be right up there with the other high end markers if you do that. The maintianence is easy and simple, but if you get bored and decide to take it appart for fun(which is not needed as part of normal maintainence), you'll probably never get it back together.
If you're on a limited budget, take a look at the Trilogy SF Pro. It comes with a partial barrel kit (a kaner, one of the best barrels out there), which can allow you to match paint better. It's $30 more, but that beats spending $150 on a Freak or Pipe kit.
You would probably need to call WGP and ask about getting the extra pieces of the kaner kit. They MIGHT sell them. I've never seen any store sell them though.
As for getting a Freak Jr., think very carefully about what sizes you use. I read (somewhere) that the freak jr. comes with a 0.689, 0.693, and 0.695. The only time you will ever see paint that's 0.695 is if you soak it in water or pick it up off the ground after it rains (ok, I'm exaggerating a little, but you're not likely to see non-swelled paint that big). 0.693 is going to be very rare. On the other hand, my local field uses 0.682-0.687, which would simply roll out of the barrel with any of the Freak Jr. inserts. If you're looking for one of the smaller barrel kits, check out the pipe jr., which has a 0.689, and then one bigger and one smaller back (I don't remember the numbers at the moment).
Though really, if you have the money, you're probably just better off buying a full kit. With the freak junior, you get 3 inserts for $90. With the full freak, you get 8 inserts for $140, and you will be able to fit anything.
Remember, when you're matching paint in an autococker, you're trying to avoid both rollouts and ball breaks. With open bolt markers, all you're worrying about is ball breaks, so you can go with a barrel that is too large without any noticable ill effects. On a cocker, the barrel really needs to match.
the freak jr. form action village comes with a .687 .689 and .691 for $87. but i saw a j&j barrel kit for only $77 and it comes with .685, .688, .691, and .693 backs. i dont know if thats small enough and i dont know if you can get any extra parts.
lram, thank you for that excellent review, and for not using text messaging slang (it becames a hassel trying to decipher while trying to take in the pros and cons of a marker....I digress). I have been recentyl trying to make up my mind on a new marker (Promaster, Wrath LTD, ANS Razor Ion, somewhere in this price range), then I thought WGP. So I find myself here and I think your review just made up my mind. By the way, how easy is it to strip the gun down if needed, if needed, how often?
quote:Originally posted by NYz own pballer does your egg2 keep up with your gun on ramping mode?
Well, I only tried once, using the 15 bps full auto, and frankly, it scared me to have a marker shooting that fast in my hands, so I wasn't really paying attention to the hopper. Since the marker has eyes, the rate of fire should just slow down to match the feed rate of the hopper (if needed).
quote:Originally posted by Superrmahon lram, thank you for that excellent review, and for not using text messaging slang (it becames a hassel trying to decipher while trying to take in the pros and cons of a marker....I digress). I have been recentyl trying to make up my mind on a new marker (Promaster, Wrath LTD, ANS Razor Ion, somewhere in this price range), then I thought WGP. So I find myself here and I think your review just made up my mind. By the way, how easy is it to strip the gun down if needed, if needed, how often?
Well, for regular maintenance, the only thing you have to remove is the bolt, which is just one pull pin.
Autocockers aren't like spool valves or blowbacks where you strip the operating parts out to clean them after every game. The only time I have ever gone beyond simply taking out the bolt, is when I was replacing something. Which is a good thing, because completely disassembling the marker could take a couple of hours.