I like how modes can be changed with trigger and buttom combinations during play without opening grip. also I have snap switch and it gives the gun a more angel or intimidator like trigger pull (personal preference). I have two autocockers so i want them both to be different so i can feel i ave two different guns. Imo. The reactive trigger setting on the t board seems very fast with eyes off it clicks so fast the solenoid sounds like it cant keep it. but I have not tried it aired up so it might work well.
the board is kind of tuff to change the settings its like playing the game simon and memorizing a bunch of colors and repititions. the website has a diagram to change settings but I would rather not mess with it. There is supposedly a setup 5 section where it test the eyes and I tried to test mine using the diagram on the site and It failed I could not figure it out probably?
Ok well I have yet to try the board with air in it. So far i have just fiddled with the trigger and went through the settings with eyes off to get a feel for everything. the snap switch trigger seems to be easier to walk than my e2 and makes the trigger stick out a little more to make a SWOOPing shape which I like more than the e2 trigger. It also has a springy feel that very cool feeling to have on your fingers if your used to the eblade magnet trigger and want something different.
So this friday I will have a chance to compare my turtle cocker with t board to my e2 karnivor and I will give an unbiased opinion on what both guns weaknesses are and strengths. Honestly I hear people rave about the T board and it sounds very nice. But whats wrong with the e2? the e2 hasnt givin me any problems and also it is very simple to change settings and such with the screen. you may not be able to switch into full auto mode during a game with e2 but i can shoot fast enough with semi anyway. the T board is more of a TOURNEY board for those people that want the features that you can get from maybe a tadao or virtue board and want to put those (cheater) features on a autococker which has never been done by any other manufacturer. So if your happy with your e2 you dont need a T board. But me however I have 2 guns SO why should i have two e2's? when I can have a little variety and have one of each. I will further test the T board this weekend and let you guys know if it stands up to the Hype. It does seem to walk easier than the e2 so ill leave it at that. I definately like the snap switch over the optical also IMO. So far I will give it a 9 after only having the T board for 2 days now I cant complain about the settings being difficult to understand Im sure I will figure it all out later AND i will leave a updated review soon!
The t board i received seems to NOT WORK properly. When I use it with the eyes on it basically shoots very slow as if it is not detecting paint? The settings are somewhat complicated to change also. I am using stock settings and it is not working right at all. ALSO i get huge velocity 350-325 avg and then it miscocks and does not fire at fast rates and this is without paint. I am highly dissatisfied maybe i got blemished board. Who knows. So the eyes I put in are brand new also e1 and e2 eyes neither work. im dissapointed. I cant say that all T boards are like this but I think I would have been fine with the E2 zero b board. So im retracting my 9 rating and giving it a 5 for average. sorry guys.
5 out of 10
Last edited on Monday, August 28th, 2006 at 9:00 pm PST
Because your velocity is caused by sear and not dwell settings in a cocker, the velocity increase could not be the board's fault. It means that you need to dial back your IVG. Probably you had too short a solenoid delay (CDEL). This would have the bolt moving backward before all of the air was propelling the ball, and would get the exhaust hole out of line with the bolt. so to compensate you had the IVG turned up too far.
When you switched to a new board with very long defaults (which allow for very slow mechanical parts) it gave more than enough delay and your valve was set to be open too long.
You are most likely right about the eyes though. I had the same problem with eclipse boards of all three types until I adjusted the eyes correctly. Although anti-bounce settings could cause similar results.
as far as the mis-cocking issue there are a couple of things to account for that. probably you need to allow more ram on time (CON) so that the gun will reliably recock. or you might need to increase the sear voltage/ time because it does not reliably trip the sear. or if you are going very fast, it is also possible in the 20+ CPS range for the cocking solenoid to be working faster than your sear can keep up with. most likely you need more solenoid on time for to allow the gun to fully cock every time, and possibly more cocking pressure. (at high rates of fire some LPR'S lag, so the ram will need either more time or pressure to fully cock, or a little of both. not enough can cause your shots to stutter.)