I picked up the E-Grip a week or two ago and i have used it a couple of times.
First off, the E-grip was designed for the Custom Pro only. Fortunately, the newer versions of the 98 Custom have the same grip frame, so it works with the 98C as well. If your 98 Custom has a serial number above 893,000, then it will fit your marker. (Some say 700,000, but if you take the marker apart and you see weird cutouts in the grip, that's where the E-grip goes.)
Installation: The package comes with the E-grip of course, and a mini screwdriver, and a sear. The installation was a little difficult, I had to put the battery wires on the bottom, with the top of the 9V facing the bottom of the grip or the cover wouldn't go back on. I used the new sear that came with the E-grip and kept the old one.
I closed the gun and dry fired the E-grip with no Co2. It worked good. It was a little difficult to program it, but once you memorize how to do it, it takes about 30 seconds. To access the on/off button, use the mini screwdriver or a small allen wrench to slide between the rubber grip cover into the hole. The light is very easy to see and it's not as difficult as it sounds.
The first time I played with it, I put Co2 on it and tried to shoot on semi-auto mode. It shot as fully auto. The bolt wouldn't stop until you released the trigger. I took apart my marker and tried to figure out what was wrong. The sear that came with the E-grip is different from the stock sear. The stock sear has a hole in it, which is so it can pivot when you pull the trigger and release the bolt. Well the hole is an oval shape. The new sear is circle shaped. how the stock sear works, when you pull the trigger, the sear goes down, releasing the bolt. Well the tension of the spring and the oval shaped hole allows to sear to press against the b olt when it moves back, allowing for semi auto. So you need to release the trigger for the sear to reset. With the new sear, the circular hole doesn't allow the sear to slide up to catch the bolt before it fires again, causing it to go full auto. So I put the old sear back in and it works flawlessly.
Semi-Auto - One shot for each trigger pull.
3-Shot Ramping - 3 trigger pulls are required and the next pulls will fire 3 shots per pull as long as the trigger is being pulled at 5bps.
3-Shot Full Auto - 3 trigger pulls are required and the next pull can be held down for full auto.
Auto Response - Fires one shot for each pull and one shot for each release, unless the trigger is held for more than .25 seconds.
Turbo - Fires one shot for each trigger pull until the time between pulls is less than .25 seconds, then shoots one shot for each pull and one shot for release. Stopping firing will reset the turbo.
If your looking for a faster Tippmann than get this upgrade. I used it in the rain and it worked great. Very fast and reliable.
I give it a 9 just for the sear problem. I'm assuming the new sear works with the Custom Pro, which the system was designed for anyway.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, August 29th, 2006 at 9:26 pm PST
The old sear on the gun pulls back away from the trigger slider when the bolt is released allowing your gun to fire with the e-trigger installed (the trigger slider lifts the sear pin to release the bolt in stock setup)
I found during installation that the trigger slider actually lifts the new sear pin also but the new sear pin is unable to pull away from the trigger slider and so stays open causing your "full auto" problem .
If you remove the trigger slider and slider spring (since its function is now void and not necessary with the e-trigger installed) you will be able to use the new sear pin without problems.
I do believe the new sear pin works better since the old one constantly rubbing on the top of your new push rod sounds like too much movement for functional electro "full auto" Anyway if your gun is working keep shoot'n but if you like to tinker try this I think you'll approve.