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arson51 Friday, October 27th, 2006
Period of
Product Use:
2 years1 of 1 people found this review helpful.

3 years
Products Used:
Ego - better, more features, more competitive
Proto Matrix 06 - better, more features, more competitvie
Intimidator 03- not as good, alot of high end markers from around the emags hay day are general equal or lesser to a fully ULE'd emag.
Marker Setup: Basic emag with X valve, upgraded with: LT3 trigger, ULE exile body, RPG ULE rail, ULE trigger frame.
Any upgrade that reduces weight on this gun is probably worth the money. Eyes would also be an excellent upgrade as it would allow you to use the level 7 bolt and thus increase your ROF.
Strengths: Ive listed this in the review.
Weaknesses: See the review below.
Review: Emag Review
Note:this review is over the stock parts from the original gun from 2003 and not the upgraded one listed above. Also bold tags have been placed on things i wanted to draw your eye to, please excuse the fact they are placed quite arbitraily with no reguard to consistancy.

Out of the box
A big box from AGD arrived, it was foam lined and inside it was a shiny new Emag, I was very pleased to learn that the than new Level 10 bolt and Xvalve came installed from the factory. Also in the box were a few spare parts, and a very low budget instructional video on how to break down the Emag.

I did not chose the Emag because it was the prettiest, shiniest most colorful, or shapely. In my opinion it's what inside that counts. In any beauty contest the Emag would place very low, below some Spyders, the only thing it would be above would be Tippmann's and Brass Eagle markers! The Emag is very angular, consisting of a tube and squared off parts, there are lots of lines and angles on it making it look un-aerodynamic, not very streamlined. It slightly resembles a sub machine gun because of its fore grip/battery but not to the point of making you look like a freak.

The parts
The Emag came with the new level 10 bolt and aluminum X-valve. The level 10 was not tuned very well out of the factory and broke a PMI premium dangled into the breech after about 10 or so hits.

The stainless steel main body had brown colored blemishes inside of it out of the box. These blemishes are not rust and do not affect performance. The stainless steel of the body also scratched up considerably after a year, surprising of steel. The aluminum parts, the body rail grip and battery case, were anodized well and after that time did not scratch as much as the main body.

The body rail fans out and widened at the area under the valve. This is totally cosmetic as far as I know; it and serves no purpose other than to add weight. The sight rail included with the Emag is very well machined and anodized. I am sure it added an extra 50 to the price tag. I removed it.

X-Valve and lvl 10 bolt
This Emag came with the newer and lighter Al constructed Xvalve and Level10 bolt. These parts are lighter than the original parts that would have normally came with the Emag. Itís a sign that AGD is starting to think about what players want. The LVL was tweaked well out of the factory but I made it even softer. This gun cannot chop a ball. The main flaw with the lvl 10 is you must open it up and

The trigger frame on my Emag was not the standard Emag frame as it did not have a back hump and finger groves. I was told it was a ULE Emag frame by an AGD tech, which is nice. Its frame isn't a true 45 because it lacks the proper grips, I can fire on its double trigger with a single finger as if it was a normal pistol grip and I have really big hands. There is an LED display on the bottom left of the grip. It is only one line and is accessed with the 2 recessed buttons on the back of the grip. The LED displays info on shots fired over all, shots fired since activation, rate of fire, burst modes(removed in version 3.2), and game timer, shot buffer and triggers sensor. I don't mess with these features. When I had to select a duck bill or asa adaptor for my Emag, I found that most duckbills need to have a flat top(like the tippmann 98's asa) or they will not fit the oversized Emag grip. I used a grinder to make my old adaptor fit. Not a major problem, but watch out for it when selecting asa adaptors or just get a rail (I recommend Custom Products).

The trigger doesn't have much side to side play and is completely different from other electros' triggers. Instead of springs it uses magnets to return the trigger. Up to four magnets can be placed in the frame on top of the trigger for maximum trigger weight. For minimum trigger weight I dropped 3 small o-rings into the magnet area and put a single magnet on top of them. Instead of a micro switch, the Emag uses a magnet and a hall effect sensor to trigger the solenoid. A magnet placed on the back of the trigger activates hall-effect sensor when the trigger is pulled. This feature removes the need for a cheap effective micro switch, and replaces it with an expensive electronic sensor. There was no need to put in this sensor, a cheap .05 cent micro switch would have done the job fine if not better. The length of the pull out of the box is pretty good but the video showed me how to make it smaller. My advice is to totally ignore adjusting the internal trigger stop(major pain to do), but instead turn the selector switch all the way back, past the E until it points towards you. This automatically sets the trigger to the smallest effective length. Even at the smallest setting the Emagís trigger is still much larger than other electros triggers, it doesnít compare to any other top end marker.

There is a selector switch on the trigger where the safety normally is (the safety is now further back). It toggles between manual mode (M) and electronic mode (E). On electronic mode it uses the hall effect sensor and fires up to 16 bps (UPDATE in version 3.2 it is 20 bps. In manual mode, the Emag functions like an RT pro, and uses the Reactive Trigger. I've only played around with this mode using it in a game only once because of battery failure. Because of the solenoid attached to sear, the reactivity of the Emags' trigger is much less compared to a normal RT Mag(see rapid firing later on). Like a normal RT it is possible to "short stroke" and double feed. When the manual mode is toggled when there is still a battery on, it fires in a Hybrid mode. It says in the manual it fires up to the advertised 26 bps, but with a lighter pull. I've used this many times but I really don't see the advantage of this over Pure manual mode or E mode. Some users said that they achieved allot of bounce firing in this mode but others find it more difficult to fire quickly(I'm in this group). In manual mode the trigger pull is pretty long and can't be made shorter. Itís All the way from its resting position to the back of the frame.

The battery
One of the most prominent features on the Emag is its huge battery pack that also acts as a fore grip. Because of its weight and size the battery is vexing and is one of the low points of the Emag. The battery is an 16 volt NiMH, it's really big but doesnít last long at all. According to the manual it can get 20,000 but the most Iíve shot before a recharge was around 10,000. Instead of an on off switch there is a hole on the top of the battery where a "key" is inserted to turn it off. The key is a tiny yellow stick that is put in to cut off current. This small yellow key is pretty ridiculous and easy to lose, how much harder would it have been to place a 3rd button on the back of the grip for power, I've seen other users put them on tethers attached to the gun to avoid losing the key. The Emag should have been designed to use a weaker solenoid and utilize a lighter on/off pin, thus freeing it of its big useless battery.

The stock barrel of the Emag isn't bad. Looking side of it I can see that it was well honed and smooth. It also has 2 ball detents instead of the normal one (to prevent double feeding with the warp feed system), and it can be set for a left, right or center feed configuration. Its quality is comparable to the auto cocker stock barrel, which is pretty good. Use large bore paint with this barrel though, it's a wide .69 calibers.

Light weight isnít one of the Emagís strengths, my Emag with tank warp feed, revolution, weighs a whopping 13 lbs. AGD stuck to using SS as the choice materials for their bodyís as stubbornly as Nintendo stayed away from Disk's. This is the heaviest set up I've shot. It is possible to reduce weight through upgrades; most parts on the Emag can be replaced with ULE equivalents.

On the field and in action.

Known problems and issues
On the field in the first few times I pull the trigger (in E or M mode) the gun clicks several times, and it fires as normal. The number is usually, 1 but its done it up to a dozen times. I've learned this was caused by an not cleaning and oiling gun often. My badÖ

The level 10's brass power tube tip has an edge worn off. It was caused when I applied pressure from underneath the twist lock barrel to lower velocities in tourneys to cheat. The upward pressure put friction on the bolt which grinded up the power tube tip, it did get me and extra 10 fpsÖ

Rate of fire
The Emagís rate of fire is quite slow in comparison to other high ends, mainly because of the lack of bounce from recoil, and from the ridiculous 20 bps Limit

There is little recoil during firing because the little reciprocating mass, and poor sensitivity from the hall effect sensor. This problem was corrected with software updates, but these updates will never be released to the public.

Full auto stick
When the rate of fire limit is reached what ever it may be, some Emags get stuck on full auto and will only stopped when the trigger is held. My Emag is one of these, the problem is correctable by switching the wires into the solenoid, I kinda like this feature actually I think it will stay.

Cleaning on field and off
During a game if a barrel break, or an even rarer chop occurs, cleaning out the barrel is a simple process of twisting and sliding out the twist lock barrel. Because the barrel is also the breach it can be cleared quickly. If you happen to use a ULE body with cocker threads I have no idea how you can clear a break in the barrel quickly. Shoving a swab from the front might even make this problem worse.

Rapid Firing
Runaway or rapid fire with the Emag is much more difficult than an ULE Custom, (which in turn is harder than an RT pro) because of its heavy complex sear assembly. Although it is possible to achieve consistent fully automatic fire, it never gets faster than 18bps; it's possible it's just the Dynaflow's fault.

Average around 600 from a 68/3k tank. The Level 10 bolt decreases the efficiency of an already poor performer. The guns operating pressure is between 800-600, but if the tank is staring to empty the gun will chuff at 800PSI.
Because of the Emagís good balance, its overhanging back end it serves as a perfectly fine snatch grip, several machinist also produce bolt on after market snatch grips for mags.

For a good Picture of my current Mag look in the Automag forumís picture thread.
Overall Conclusion
The Emag is a fine high end marker, though there are design elements I donít agree with. For the same price markers can be purchased for the same price with better performance and more features. -1/2
-It's ROF is capped low in comparison to others in its class. -1/2
-trigger lacks adjustability of others in its class. -1/2
-it is unnecessarily heavy due to poor choice of body materials, and extra fat left on the stock parts.-1/2
-the battery is unnecessarily large while others in its class work longer better on a 9v. -1/2
-its efficiency is poor in comparison to others in its class. -1/2
7 out of 10Last edited on Friday, October 27th, 2006 at 2:59 pm PST

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