ummm, nothing, I upped the 98 because of its novelty and it probably is the most reliable rec mechanical marker ever made. i play woods and speed ball, my other guns are shocker NXT and Angel G7, so I basically can't compare because they are two completely different guns and games being played.
Low Pressure Kit by Tippmann
Tippmann Double Trigger
Tippmann Reg (meh, it works)
Pure Energy 68/45
Orange Paintball Howitzer bolt
Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt power tube
Some custom milling to reduce weight
Polished interior to make a smoother surface for power tube to move on so much faster speed, distance and accuracy.
Halo B w/ Rip Drive and V35 Board (Victory Board)
J&J Ceramic 14 inch
Simple to use
Fun to use
Some required ups to optimize use
First and foremost, Tippmanns should never be electronic. If you want an electronic gun, you shouldn't be buying a Tippmann because you don't use heavy guns for speed ball, which is the only place for electronic guns. You NEED mechanical guns for woods ball because they are easy to field strip and fix in game and between games. Woods ball games can last for a while, so using batteries also isn't fun. So this is the best upgrade you can get for any Tippmann.
Secondly, don't ever get a cyclone feed. What do you think an electronic spin hopper does? A hopper can do the same thing as a cyclone feed and can go so much faster, so don't waste the money. On that note, you'll need a fast hopper in order to obtain full potential of the RT (not a Halo, a simple Evo2 will probably work, or an Evo3 because that has eyes and is mad cheap hopper for what it offers).
Ok, the review. You can tell that the marker set-up isn't usual. Most people won't go out of their way to spend money and install and the ups I did, but I, for some reason, felt compelled. I've seen some people say they can't get more than 10 bps. NOT TRUE. If you have CO2, your shot consistency sux so this may be true, but you shouldn't buy an RT if you aren't using compressed air or N2. If you put the right amount of pressure on the trigger, the gun will go. Think about it this way, the RT is gas powered, so every time you press it, the little metal button that the trigger is pushing pushes against your trigger with much for force and sensitivity than the usual spring, meaning that you don't have to wait as long for the trigger to reset to pull again AND you don't have to pull the trigger nearly as much for the marker to fire. You don't need to walk the trigger, and shouldn't because the trigger is too heavy and not stiff enough (at least the one I had) and the operation is not light enough (you're not pressing a small button like in a lectric marker, your pushing a button with gas pressure behind it. Also, there is way too much distance tween the trigger and the button to walk it, just push it in and feel the sweet spot like she told you). That being said, I emptied my Halo which had probably tween 180-190 balls in less than ten seconds, so I was pumping out 18-19 bps. Also, I didn't have any chops and it shoots accurately. I kept the marker level and it pasted a cone about 160 ft. away with probably 90 percent accuracy using Dibalo Heat, not one break. When I played, I did notice that it consumed more gas than it did before I had installed the RT. This isn't really a problem because Tippys already have such good gas consumption that it may have dropped my gas consumption to normal, nothing to worry about. It is worth noting that the RT is fun to use; kind of like driving a stick-shift, you have more control.
If you want, install a vertical feed on your marker for faster and more consistent loading (requires milling).
Keep in mind that my Tippmann isn't the average one, so to take advantage of the RT you'll need standard ups like a new internal power tube, N2 (why not, everything's going that way) and a faster hopper. The polished internals probably helped a lot, but it takes nothing to take apart your marker and perform maintenance so go do it. I don't see any reason for the anybody to not get at least 14 bps even if you've go the stock tube and don't polish your internals.
When installing the RT, it can be a little tricky putting the two frames back together without having everything pop out if you're just beginning with setting up your own marker. Just go slowly and you won't have much of a problem.
After reading a comment on the review, I do have to admit that the cyclone feed would be good for scenario play in that no batteries are needed.
Get it if you want to keep your Tippy and play some woods ball. It;s a great upgrade and trigger speed is crucial when it comes to tight situations. It's reliable and simple to use. If your debating between the E-trig and the RT, get this because Tippmann's are never suitable for electronics, it's just not right. If you're going into speedball and ditching the whole rec/woods ball scene, then save up for something basic like an Ion Pro and you'll be better off.
PS- Nobody should ever buy a Spyder or PMI. They're like Chrysler's, they work great until you buy them.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Saturday, February 10th, 2007 at 6:44 am PST
The Howitzer bolt is very good. The only reason I have it is because the Rufus Dawg venturi bolt broke, literally. When I had the venturi bolt i was having excellent accuracy, range, air consumption, everything a venturi offers. Then it broke while I was shooting around an open field. I decided that I didn't want that bolt if it was going to break randomly, so I bought the howitzer bolt. I get better range, better accuracy, better air consumption, fewer breaks and haven't really noticed a difference in air consumption. I have no idea how it works better than a venturi, but it does. It may be my marker, my paint, my barrel, etc., but it worked better and that's all I know. On top of that, it looks mad cool. But I do have to stress that the standard Tippmann bolt is good, it's just that it takes upgrades to maximize the potential of any part of any gun, if you see what I am saying.
The howitzer is a great addition to any tippmann, just don't send it back in tippmann because they take any new bolts and put their on, I don't know why but it's happened to me twice and is really annoying, especially if you prefered the bolt you had in it before.
I have an a-5 and it works great with a cyclone, and a response with co2, i know that a 98 will work with co2 and a response, but, the only question i have is why use batteries in a hopper for scenario, i cant say ive ever used a 98 cyclone, but saying not to buy one is kinda akward, wouldnt it help out just a bit in scenario if you dont use batteries play in the muck and rain, just a question,
Second, i take it from the above, that the Howitzer is good, would you recomend buying one over any other bolts?
Third what kind of custom milling if you dont mind sharing?
Thanks for your time!
I will give it t you that the cyclone feed is good in that no batteries are needed. Much better for scenario play. Good call.
The Howitzer bolt is good, the Starfire bolt chopped up when I had it but bolts can be made or broken by the paint, so my paint may have been a bad match for the Starfire. The Tippmann regular bolt is actually pretty good, not gonna lie.
The simple milling is cutting off the sight at the back of the gun or whatever that nook is. The other stuff was me shaving off the embossed logo, and taking a little off the top where the two halves of the gun come together and the sides, the parts where internals need the sides to run along (if you open up your gun and cock it with the internals on only one half of the body, you can get an idea of where the internals don't rely on the body). I just had some time at a friend's workshop, so I fooled around knowing we had extra 98 bodies. Thought the body might have been weakened but has actually held up fine, and is lighter (not Mini light, but lighter than the usual heft of the gun).
Last edited on Saturday, February 10th, 2007 at 6:42 am PST
Well you guys are pretty smart on here... First off, in your review you kept saying that the RT piston rod was the thing that fires the marker. Wrong, the sear still does. Second, with a setup that only uses the stock velocity adjuster, you use no more air then you would without the RT, since the valve releases the same amount of air each time, no matter what the velocity adjuster is set at. Third, aftermarket bolts are no improvement over the stock one.