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Stalkin Monday, May 14th, 2007
Period of
Product Use:
Less than a month5 of 5 people found this review helpful.

More than 5 years
Products Used:
Marker Setup: Clasic Orracle 'Cocker with lots of shiny stuff.
PMR (black) w/ UL trigger frame, Egg3, ANS 68/4500
Strengths: Great LEDs
Sticky Grip
Weight - Light
Weaknesses: Poor Manual
Ribbon set is perpendicular to frame and has to be bent by grip.
Review: I bought the UL at the exact same time that I bought my PMR. There was a special at a shop near me to get both for $500. So maybe that can help you to find a good deal, if you haven't already purchased a PMR. Anyhow, here we go...

Installation: Installation is pretty simple. Wires to the solenoid and the ribbon to the eyes, then bolt back together. Be careful to not pinch or bend wires too much.

The manual's illustrations aren't 100%, but you can figure out what goes into what. The ribbon will be set in prependicular to the frame and the grip, when screwed back on, will actually bend it a little. DO NOT WRINKLE THE RIBBON!

Make sure that your UL came with two longer screws to attach your frame to the PMR. The stock screws are too short. One of my UL screws was a little fatter than the other... fat one in the back.

Trigger: The "black nub", "nubbie", "nipple"... whatever you want to call it has to be scraped off of the bottom of the solenoid. Otherwise, your UL's trigger will be pressed down by it and the trigger will constantly be straining to return to the starting position. This is not in the manual, either.

Screws on the trigger itself... The one at the top of the trigger controls the forward position of the trigger. Caution - mine fell out the first day I played with it. Plumbers tape may help to keep that thing in. Screw at the back of the trigger adjusts spring tension... pretty simple.

Screw on the right side of the frame, closest to the trigger, the manual says controls forward positioning... IT'S WRONG. It controls the distance the trigger can be pulled. The screw to it's left is described as controlling the pull distance in the manual... IT'S WRONG, also. That screw is just a hinge screw that keeps the trigger to the frame.

BUT - there is light at the end of the tunnel. LMAO!! Learn from our spent time and you can install the frame, adjust the trigger and be ready to roll quickly.

Programming: Setting up your gun is cake if you've done it before. If not, follow the manual, as the setting information is one of the two things that are accurate in the manual.

Grip: Is much better than the stock. You have a very bright LED on the left side towards the bottom of the grip. ALSO, you have another small LED towards the top of the left side of the grip. VERY COOL! The grip itself secures better to the frame, than the stock. In addition, it feels a little thicker and is "stickier".

Buttons: Much better than the stock. Sexier too.

Really, besides the manual, I only had a problem with the screw from the trigger falling out. It's a cheap piece and didn't effect my arss kicking ability. LOL!!
Conclusion: Yes, I would recommend this bad boy.

The manual blows, but don't let it stop you from buying this frame!

Giving it a 9 for the frame. Manual gets a 5.
9 out of 10

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