Various SP markers, Dye markers, a few Bob Long markers (marqs primarily)...basically enough to compare this product.
Red and Black 06 Ego
Tadao M7 Board
I'm very satisfied with what I have on my marker. The Tadao Board is fast, and the Ultralite barrel is accurate. The only other thing (and this is simply for user preference) would be a trigger.
Pretty simple to clean/lube.
I had purchased this marker about 6 months ago via the nation. The man claimed he had been playing on a team in D3 at an NPPL event somewhere (I keep thinking Chicago, but that can't be right...). So after purchasing the marker, I was pretty sure it would be broken in and fully adjusted for maximum ability. I was partially right. While the marker has never malfunctioned on me or let me down during a game, upon shooting it I was mildly disappointed. The trigger pull was long and felt unadjusted, which I thought was odd for a D3 player. The bolt also seemed to return just a bit too slow when I fired the marker (just when I was dry-firing it in my backyard). So I decided to service the marker a bit and see if I could fix it up.
I took the bolt out, and proceeded to remove the rammer cap, and then the rammer. Right around then I found the problem. The man who had the marker before it had lubed the rammer. I was surprised. I mean, the guy had made several, several Ego deals on the nation before, and I thought by now he'd know how to properly service his markers. Anyway, I cleaned the lube off of the rammer and the internals, and applied a fresh coat of oil to the rammer and bolt. Upon airing it up and firing again, it felt much smoother and seemed to glide with each pull of the trigger. As is usual for Planet Eclipse, a very nice marker.
Then I set to the task of adjusting the trigger for maximum performance. That didn't take too long either. The stock trigger really function well, and I found a great poition to adjust it too. I screwed the spring screw out far so that there was no pressure to keep your fingers from walking it, screwed the magnetic screw out almost all the way so only a small amount of magnetic energy was pulling it back, and screwed the top screw until the back of the trigger was millimeters away from clicking the microswitch. If you still have the stock trigger, I'd suggest a similar configuration. After adjusting the trigger as described, the 06 shot ropes and dished out paint like no other. The Tadao board helped a fair bit, as well.
Time to go through the features:
No contest here. As I've said, the marker has never let me down during a tourney or on a weekend practice, and the smooth shot of an Ego has little competition in the industry. If you keep your marker oiled and lubed properly, the 06 will never let you down. No surprise, freak occurances here. You take good care of it and it will be faithful to you.
With some embarrassment I have to admit that I haven't tweaked this marker yet. The field I primarily attend has all day air available to all players, and I typically fill up after every game, so I never have had the urge to fool around with dwell, LPR, and HPR to achieve maximum efficiency. However, I believe the dwell is set to the Tadao factory default, the HPR likely runs around 200-210psi (PE decided to not include a gauge, likely to make the marker as light as possible), with the LPR typically flushed with the cap. I can still get about 3/4 of a case to and entire case off of one 45/45 fill. Definitely a great marker for efficiency.
Hasn't let me down yet. I haven't aired my marker up to find that a leak had 'mysteriously' formed in my rammer, nor have I had to walk off of a game due to marker malfunction. The only thing that ever happened was really my fault. A few buddies of mine wanted to play woodsball (they're more recreational guys), and I decided to bring this marker out and just tone it down to straight semi, slow as possible. So the three of us played in a huge wooded area. It took me 30 minutes before I came into contact with one of them. We both saw each other about 20 feet away, and both lifted our marker. I fired, and nothing happened. Then I was out in about 4 second. After looking down at my marker I realized the Ego has an auto-turn off. After the marker had been on for so long without being fired it shut itself off, and, without checking, I was left to die. I suppose that's one thing mech players will always have over us.
Very simple. The bolt and rammer slide out easily and only need a drop or two of oil. both the HPR and LPR are very basic and easy to clean. The HPR functions mainly on a spring stack, and the LPR primarily only needs one piston o-ring lubed. After playing with it for the first time, I took it home and decided to break the entire thing down. That means all the way past the manifold, into the true internals of the gun, where the magic happens. It's usually suggested to service this area once every 20,000 shots, but I felt like familiarizing myself with the marker. Very easy process (except for the hosing, which I'll get to in just a few moments), and is simple to take apart and put back together. I've got to tip my hat to Planet Eclipse on this one.
The internals of the Ego are great, no doubt, except for one small thing: the internal hosing. There is one hose that is apparent when you disconnect the Ego frame from the body, that is connected to the HPR (the VA above the HPR, really). This hose is a complete pain to remove. It is fixed on barb fitting, and that ensure that it does not blow off when the marker it aired up, but also makes for a difficult removal. Planet Eclipse disappointed me a bit here. I really feel that they could have used smaller versions of macroline fittings and used a hose similar to macroline to connect the two. Instead, they opted for the barbed fitting. If you attempt to pull the hose, it goes nowhere. It's recommended to use tweezers, and I did, but they didn't make it much easier. After five or ten minutes, I was able to remove the line with a pair of tweezers and a pin. Unfortunately, there was a small hole (minuscule) created on the top of the hosing, and when I aired the marker back up it was creating a small leak. I had to cut the small area with the hole off, and then try and udjust the hose so no air leaked out. This was a real pain that took close to 30 minutes (the hose refused to stop leaking until I got it in a perfect spot). I thought about replacing the hose, but it turns out you can only purchase is directly from PE overseas, which costs about 35 bucks for shipping, with the hose as only 3 or 4 bucks. Since I didn't feel like paying that much, I adjusted the hose to the point that it would no longer leak.
I have never used the stock board to the Ego (the man who sold it to me claimed he would send it a week or two later, but he was never able to). However, I can tell you that the Tadao achieves everything you would expect from an aftermarket board. BPS goes as high as your hopper feeds, there are tons of different modes and special settings to make fool-around matches unique, and, of course, all of the required settings for several different tourney-based leagues, such as the NPPL and PSP. This marker can shoot faster than you'll ever need, let's leave it at that.
It's light. I really don't know what else to say. Picking up any other marker after holding this really makes you realize just how light it is. With a VLocity mounted on top and a 45/45 Throttle on the back (my personal setup), running is a breeze and sometimes you forget the marker is even there. It seems like in the 07 season many companies are focusing on weight as a major selling point, but I really don't see why you'd have to get any lighter than this marker.
As is with any other marker, accuracy is determined by the quality of your barrel and, more importantly, your paint-to-bore match. If you shoot the Ego with a .689 back and you're using .689 paint, you'll be firing nothing but ropes. With smaller or bigger paint sizes, the accuracy tends to decrease only slightly. With an incorrect paint-to-bore match, on a standard size NPPL X-Ball field, I'd say each ball would hit the middle X within a 3 foot radius (firing from the break-out point). The marker deals out paint quickly enough that the 3 foot radius doesn't make a huge difference. Don't worry, you'll hit your target.
A great marker for the serious player. A little pricey if bought new (still costs about $1000 if bought new from a site), but with the rush of 07 marker you can find these on the nation for $650-$750, which is pretty nice for a marker you'll never have to replace. The only real factor I can count against this product is the internal hosing which I personally find so tedious to remove and replace. Not to mention a lot of Planet Eclipse customer service takes place out of the UK rather than the US (I believe most of their stuff ships from there as well). But despite these two minor factor, the marker is amazing and can compete at any level of play. When markers are capped at 15 bps in most of the major tourneys today, it really doesn't make a huge difference that an 07 can punch out a higher firing rate. Both marker are legally only allowed to fire at 15, and that's the most each will get in one second.
A superb marker for the experienced player. Small rich kids please stay away; you're ruining the sport I love.
I haven't gotten to glance at the 07's internals as of yet, but with luck they've fixed the barbed fitting problem. If it wasn't for that minor inconvenience (only really affects you when you're performing a complete strip-down of the entire marker and all of it's components), I would be awarding this marker a perfect score.
Could not agree more with you on the hose to barb fitting,it's not fun or pretty
The stock lcd board is very good but imo of the ease of the Tadeo led (once ya get familiar with it) is rock solid, much less having scroll around for everything,I don't think you've missed a whole lot but it is nice having a back-up board just in case.