PM7 w/ UL frame
-Tadao M7 Board
-Virtue Laser Eyes(Blue)
-DM6 spring detents
Powerlyte Scepter kit
Reloader B Diamond smoke shell w/ speedfeed
Macdev Legionair HP 68/4500
Nothing to mention
HP or LP tanks
I had ordered a limited edition Champagne colored PM7. When I recieved it the packaging was very nice, as to be expected by Dye. The anno was stunning, its very close to clear, but in the right light you can really notice the difference. You can just tell its high quality as is everything Dye makes. What was included was:
-Dye Slick Lube
-Allen key set
-Proto 2 piece
The first thing anyone should do when recieving a new marker is READ THE MANUAL. I have a lot of experience with PM markers so I quickly skimmed through it, but kept it as a guide line close to my side. This is the list of what I did before even firing the marker:
1. Take the bolt out and replace the inner top hat and inner Beer can O-ring. They are the only O-rings one the bolt that are Urethane ones compared to buna. The reason for this is because Dye does not want to deal with bolts that have debris in them because buna is a weaker O-ring. If you clean your marker regularily you will have no problem. Buna O-rings are a lot smoother. Lube the entire bolt with your lube of choice. Good options are Slick Honey, Hater Sauce, Lurker and acceptable ones are Dye Slick, Dow33. I personally use Lurker because it works great and is cheap.
2.Replace the factory battery. It will be low and can result in poor performace. You should do this with any marker you recieve.
3. I took a strap wrench and took the top and bottom off my Hyper 2 then screwed them back on by hand so they are loose and I can clean them whenever I like. Some people say to clean your regs right when you get your marker, theres really no harm in it...but the Dye factory goo is really good for the breakin period. Put a couple cases through then lube. I lube the regs with Dye Slick lube as it is more of a resin then a lube and works well on regs, also wont void your warrenty.
4. I took my frame off, disconnected the eye wires and solenoid wire. I took my trigger spring and cut 3 coils off of it, then put it back in the trigger. I did very little adjusting as I dont mind it how it was set originally. Check your eyes to make sure they are working after you reassemble.
5. This is an upgrade and optional portion. I got DM6 spring detents for $5 and replaced the stock ones with them. They require no mod like on the PM6 and work very well, you will never have to replace your detents again.
6. Aired up the marker and Dry fired, no leaks, cycling properly...good. Dont fine tune at this point just leave settings as stock until the regs are broken in and then fine tune, only after you clean both regs.
7. Loaded up my hopper, ran paint through it. Shooting ropes even with the stock trigger, no problems, no chops, eyes work, everything great. Kick is a little high, efficiency a little poor...its the break in period.
The PM7 is almost exactly like the PM6 with a few minor changes and some nice user helpful features put in. You will notice by just looking at it is is shorter, 1/2 shorter to be exact. Its also 3.5 ounces lighter. There is also a knob on the feedneck, no more tools required to tighten, thankyou Dye. The one pc composite eye covers are gone and replaced by 2 metal eyes plates, very nice. Picking it up you will see the trigger has been moved back and is more comfortable. When you open the grips to change your battery you will see the board is now perpendiuclar to the frame as opposed to parralell. The Eye wire also has a nice tab on it to grab to remove the eye wire. The LPR has been shortened, but the HPR is the same, apart from the allen key hole on the top looking different, its still the same size. The LPR cap is round, and the bolt cap has no grooves as the M6 had. The bolt itself gives slighter better effiency do to less air being in the chamber, you can see the difference between the M6 and M7 bolt. The gun shoots as all high ends should, fast, low kick, accurate. That is why I dont list them as strengths. Every High-End has these, and the PM7 is no different. The Operation is the same as the M6, as is the speed and the kick. The board however is different sporting 3 modes of fire plus 1 hidden mode. Simply click the trigger 4 times in mode select and it will fire in NXL full auto, once again very nice.
The only upgrade I see as madatory is the UL frame. That being said its not for everyone, some really do not like the feel. The reason I choose the UL is quite simple.
Here's the advantages.
-Thinner Frame(better for one handed shooting you back players)
-Lighter Frame(you will notice a difference)
-Roller Bearing trigger(One of the best on the market)
-Outside trigger adjustments(no more taking the frame off)
-Outside Rail adjustment(no more removing grips and battery)
-Ego style prong battery connectors(goodbye broken wire harness)
-HUD LED(no more looking down to see whats wrong with you marker)
-Bright grip LED(Looks nice)
-All the modes as the stock board(minus the hidden NXL, yes it is a sad loss)
-Raises resale rate(should you care)
-New Gell Dye Sticky grips(far better than the stock Proto ones)
-Membrane pad buttons(easier to press with gloves on)
-Looks better(opinion I know...)
****There are no triggers for the PM7 UL frame(there is a mod to DM6 triggers however)****
****PM7 UL frame takes DM6/7 boards, the Virtue board requires an eye adapter for the PM7 eyes, the Tadao M7 Universal board does not****
The stock barrel is ok but not great, its only 12'' and .691. I personally use a Powerlyte Scepter kit and like it quite a bit. Other great options are the Dye Ultralite barrel, and the Lucky Un1tec(although they are now UK based).
This marker has a few nice changes to the M6, I got it because I think its worth it and I can have this marker for quite some time to come. I hope this review helped some of you out there, should you have any questions just ask.
Its worth it, buy it. 10.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Friday, September 7th, 2007 at 4:42 pm PST
hey, great review man.
I have a question.. i want to change my marker and I dont know what marker is overall better between the Proto m7 and the Epiphany..
What marker is overall better?
What marker will give less problems?
Which one is easier to maintain?
Hey i just got a stock pm7, is it cool to use a high pressure tank on it?? I was at the field and an o-ring in the bottom of the reg just blew, after i got it replaced it worked awesome for the rest of the day. I was just wondering if the hp tank could cause furthur damage to the gun??