Phantoms (same basic operation)
KP2 (pump rifle, similar layout)
KP2SC Pistol Stock
PPS Custom K-Pug
-Autococker spring kit
-Looks & Feel
-Under barrel loading
-Confused as to who this is made for?
First a little about me:
I prefer compact simple guns, pumps & pistols.
I prefer simple reliable operation over feature rich newfanglenes.
Anyone see the new RAP4 shotgun?
Yes, I remember those threads that poped up in every pump forum across the web. I was there too...wondering, waiting, wanting to get my hands on one to see for myself. Like many I kept an eye on PBReview hoping that someone would give a real review...nothing but the usual.
In the spring of 2007 I had the oppertunity to touch and feel this gun, I admit that I felt a bond with it right away. I was/am currently shooting a KP2, so picking up the RAP4 was something like "That ain't a knife...THIS is a knife". Well it turned out that it was leaky and for sale, Thinking that I would fix it up (ha!) it became mine.
I got the longest model made, 18" barrel and a car stock. 1st off the air tank is a joke, no burst disk, no DOT. However if you want to use the stock you need to fill the tank or use the "spare air" throw away co2's. So far I have used it with a remote line directly into the ASA. Currently I am looking at ways to change the ASA location to Island style, "VSC" style or into a wooden stock.
Almost threw it away, came close to smashing it into scrap a few times & I really wished I had not bought it, all that was before I had even got it to hold air. The process of breaking this thing down is proof that it was never intended to shoot paint. I am sure this gun is great for poly balls & pepper balls but those guys dont have to chroro or use FPO.
So who is it for?
Milsim guys? Maybe but IMO the hardcore milsim's want a bit more than a limited paint pump gun.
Pump players? Doubt it, though it is a pump it is also about 4' long and you can not load it with 10 round tubes...hand load one at a time.
[Long dark nights in the lab]
Endless spring work and adjustments, every change forcing me to rebuild, test, tear down, change spring, adjust, rebuild, test...You get the point. Dremel / JB Weld projects to correct the sear contacts & saftey clearance. Hours looking for the tiny tiny spring that shot across the room. Finding out that every MF'n cup seal & power tube I own ALMOST fits in this gun.
Ok so in the recent weeks I finally got this sucker working. It is shooting low (220) but steady. I have had to mess with springs a lot, though it is a nelson style valve the spring tension adjustment is at the valve spring...not the main spring (total PITA).
NOTE TO USERS: The bulk of the "chopping" issues can be solved by understanding exactly how the "bolt lock" works. When the bolt lock is ON there is a metal piece with two "teeth" that is pushed down into the breech (at 1st glance it looks like a detent). The first tooth is 90* and designed to stop the bolt from moving forward into the breech area(of course this will stop the bolt sear from coming in contact with the trigger sear, and make the marker unable to fire). The 2nd tooth is a nice smooth incline and serves dual uses; (1) it stops multiple balls from entering the breech when the bolt is open (think autococker) and (2) As the bolt is closed the ball hits the large angled tooth, pushing past it the 90* tooth is also raised, and with the 90* out of the way the bolt can now close 100% (and of course align the two sears making the trigger active)
So what happens?
Someone cocks the marker with no paint & bolt lock on:
Pull the trigger and nothing happens.
Try to recock the marker and the anti-double feed locks the pump.
Squeeze the crap out of the trigger untill you bend the weak linkage.
Remembers to turn bolt lock off, pushes pump forward & fires.
Now add paint to the mix (rollout, misfeed, etc) and you can see just how fast you could end up with multiple balls in the barrel or breech breaks.
Loading it by hand on the field is a huge but rewarding challange. To reload you 1st activate the spring loaded ball feed latch by pressing it in and releasing (if the tube is partially filled you will loose the 3or so balls that are past the feed detent). This exposes the end of the feedtube and balls are inserted one at a time into it and past a small detent. In order to push the ball past the detent you really need to stick your thumb a ways into the tube, Because of this I have found it hard to hold more then 2-3 balls in my loading hand. Finding a good way to carry loose paint is hard, keeping it clean is even harder. I used a belt pouch with about 20 loose balls inside, I then carried a few 10 round tubes that could be dumped into the pouch if needed. Finding a good way to reload this marker; without risking a fragile bag of paint on your waist, will require some custom designed gear.
The springfeed itself is pretty strange, unlike anything I have ever seen. When you reload it you dont "lock back" the spring feed, like you would on a Zeus...You are compressing the spring with each ball (and hoping the detent does not let loose).
If you get the spring compressed enough and 1 ball slips past the detent, you can expect it to eject half the balls. The spring itself is poor quality and a lot shorter then I expected. the setup is this:
-A large pusher insert (like the thing that pushes the ball in a Zeus, only bigger and with a nylon cord sticking out of it(
-A light wire spring (the cord runs through the spring)
-A rubber bumper on the end of the cord
That "pusher" looking piece is inserted into the lower tube, there is a channel milled into the bottom side of the lower tube, that channel allows the "pusher" to be connected to the pump handle. Every time you pull the pump back; you compress the spring, feeding the ball. When you push the pump forward the cord pulls the spring back to normal. When you get down to the last 2-3 balls they are no longer in the springfeed, they are past the detent. Thats where the spring/pump connection does something pretty cool...The rubber headed spring on a string hits the ramp as it comes out of the tube and makes a 90* turn to push the ball up into the breech. The downside is that; as it is pulled back into the tube, the spring gets snagged and deformed a bit.
Speaking of the pump handle, it too is unique. Most pumps require you to pull the pump roughly less than 1'', just enough to move the bolt back to allow a ball to fall (and at the same time cock the striker). With the RAP4; as you pull the pump back; there is a little play in the "pump arm"...so the 1st 1/2" or so is JUST the pump handle moving. The next 1" or so of travel is just the pump handle & pump arm, At that point you contact the bolt and start the "real" pump stroke. All this adds up to the longest pump stroke I have ever experienced, though the 1st part of the stroke has no resistance. I think the addition of a return spring on the lower tube (carter style) would make it feel more solid.
So far no busted balls (used RPS Marbs) and only a few minor problems to work out (power tube is a bit long, causing balls to roll over the exposed tip).
Though there is nothing about this gun that is quality, there is something about the feel that makes it worth shooting.
If 5 is average, this thing is a 3 on a count that it is not ready out of the box, construction is sub-par (think Brute internals) and teardown/adjustment is insane.
But somehow I still think it COULD be great.
*** I have raised my rating to a 5 from a 3, Though I still do not think the quality is up to par...I have to give it a bit of slack since mine was used (and sold as is, leaking)***
5 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, November 15th, 2007 at 7:37 am PST
I've got to agree. Even after seeing this gun's problems first hand, I can't help but buy one. (Second hand, at least I know it works)
The first time I saw one, I was amazed that someone could make a Nelson gun so complex. I don't think these will be around for too long, so I see this as a chance to pick up a unique gun for cheap. I'm sure that a few years down the road they may even become collectible.
In the meantime, here's hoping our knowledge of Nelsons can keep these things running as long as a Sheridan.