You should always have a good hopper and compressed no matter what you shoot. A barrel kit is a necesity since this is closed bolt. All the rest is personal preferance.
not many upgrades needed
simple for a cocker
The first thing you should know about this gun; it's not a gun to buy if you are looking to upgrade from a Spyder or Tippmann. While it will perform better, you really should be looking elsewhere. That said, this is a great gun to pick up if your main priority is to get something that is just fun.
This gun is, essentially, a simplified autococker. It shoots like an autococker, it works like an autococker; it IS an autococker. However, a lot of the adjustments and upgrade options have been stripped away to produce a simpler, more user-friendly gun. The differences are mainly the integration of the pneumatics onto the body and the valve chamber is larger.
The gun itself
The gun itself is actually pretty nice. You can see in some spots how the external milling is a little sloppy to keep prices low, but internally the tubes are straight and polished to perfection. The feedneck is integrated to the body, so you cannot upgrade the feedneck. Fortunately there is no reason to get a hopper that's any better than a Revi, which fits perfectly. The pneumatics, as was mentioned earlier, are built into the body. It may sound stupid, but in fact it's a good thing. It's stronger and lighter this way. Now you don't have a large front block weighing the gun down. The bolt is aluminum, but as long as it's oiled regularly it will be buttery smooth.
The pneumatics is one of the most important things to look at on a cocker, since they have the biggest impact on the feel of the gun. You would expect to find very poor pneumatics on a gun with this low of a price tag, but they are actually really nice. The 3-way might have a longer stroke compared to a Shocktech Bomb or Belsales Hollowpoint, but it is incredibly smooth. So, while it isn't possible to upgrade the 3-way, there really isn't a need to. The LPR is consistant; it is not externally adjustable. This can be a bit of a pain, but out of the box they are set up just fine. The ram is basically an STO ram, which is an exceptional ram. Unless you plan on e-blading this gun, there is no reason to upgrade that either.
Despite what you might hear, it is actually possible to upgrade ALL of the pneumatics if you really wanted to. You can "mini" the gun, which cuts off the ASA and mounts a front block with an ASA attached. It requires some know-how; but if you don't have the know-how you shouldn't be trying to upgrade the pneumatics in the first place.
Barrel and Reg
The barrel on this gun is the only thing that really should be upgraded. That's not to say the stock barrel is bad, however. The problem is that the gun is closed bolt. This means paint will roll out of the barrel if your barrel is too big. Well, this barrel is ~.689, and paint is getting to ~.682. It is very likely that you will get rollouts. If you don't, it'll work just fine. The reg is quite nice as well. I originally had a CP reg on mine, and had the stock reg was on my Piranha. Well, my Piranha was doing +/- 7 with old paint, so I switched back. Like the LPR, it is not externally adjustable; but again it's set up right from the factory.
The triggerframe is something that gets complained about a lot. Honestly, I'm a huge fan of it. The frame is a decent size in terms of thickness. I also like the 1.5 trigger as well. There isn't much chance that you will be able to walk an autococker, so a double trigger is useless. The stroke is a good length, and it's very smooth.
This gun really can perform. It has great efficiency. It is also a very accurate gun, due to the consistancy of the reg. The gun is very quiet; it's actually quieter than a "regular" autococker. It is a bit heavy compared to most modern guns, and it isn't particularly fast. This can be viewed as a bad thing, but I like the lower rate of fire and the weight doesn't bother me.
Maintanence is very easy on this gun. Just clean and oil the bolt, and put a few drops of oil in the ASA and dryfire 20-30 times. [Do that without the barrel on, otherwise you'll get oil in it.] As far as reliability goes, I've never had any problems with this gun that I didn't cause. Seeing how I have owned it for 2 years, that's really quite something.
Overall this a phenominal gun. It is sold at an insanely low price, and will perform much better than anything else in that price range. That said, I wouldn't recommend it to new players. It is simply too easy to change the timing or something that will cause the gun to not function properly.
The biggest thing with this gun is that it is fun. Autocockers have a unique sound and feel that no other gun has.
I have shot many different autocockers. They range from slider framed right feeds, to a Karnivores. Despite how nice all of those were, I like this one better. The Trilogy is my favorite marker, period.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Thursday, March 31st, 2011 at 7:55 pm PST
so i will probably buy this gun, (if still available from WGP(?)), but only if there are pump kits available for it, and also, can you (or is it possible to) take the grip off so you can put it in a body kit for scenario play?
i like scenario games and am looking for a better sniper rifle than my 98C, and am wondering if this will do the trick.
Last edited on Sunday, November 30th, 2008 at 8:42 pm PST
quote:Originally posted by Magmoormaster I'm sure it could be done, but it might be difficult.I would be easier to just make the wood grip go over the stock triggerframe. Otherwise it would take a LOT of work.
well i asked this company to make a k98 body kit for an autococker but they said that the guns they make kits for are guns that can have the grip taken off.
is there any gun that can be made into a pump gun witht he grip taken off other than an autococker?
Yes, but the the cycling of the marker is dependant of the trigger. It would me very hard to get another trigger to work for it... to get the pull right, the sear right, etc. You might be able to do an electronic version though. Meaning get an E1/E2 and putting it in the body that you're making.
im sort of wanting an autococker that is technically pump, with no trigger to put into a wood body. im sure you understand this, but i want it to be bolt action, because when i go for functionality first, then looks (or sometimes the other way around in this case)
also i need a cheap autococker probably less than $400 CAD for this to work without going bankrupt or so
In that case as long as the trigger can release the sear, it would work. This wouldn't be much of a problem as long as its linded ups right... The hammer lug is adjustable, so with some adjusting it would work. The bolt action part will require some work, but it can be done.
quote:Originally posted by Magmoormaster Yes, but the the cycling of the marker is dependant of the trigger. It would me very hard to get another trigger to work for it... to get the pull right, the sear right, etc. You might be able to do an electronic version though. Meaning get an E1/E2 and putting it in the body that you're making.
you can get an e1/e2 trigger for this marker, but it requires a special mounting for it to work. also, it is going to cost more than the marker for an e1/e2, because the average price they go for is roughly $200-500, so if you have a budget less than $400, i wouldn't reccomend it; just stick with the stock trigger. it works great on mine :P
so there are a few versions of the trilogy autococker, like the pro, tactical, etc., but you should know about them anyway...
but can the trigger frame me taken off with any of the trilogy series autocockers?
The trigger frame can be taken off on all of them.
As for making it right feed... It would be pretty difficult. You could cut off the stock one, drill a hole in the body and machine a new one. It would be easier to take either a pre 2K cocker or any right feed cocker.
I am looking to buy one of these for rec and low end comp. I use my barrel more than paint, so im not interested in a crazy expensive and high rps gun (i shoot less than 1k in 8 hours of playing speed and woods... im not kidding). I want this thing to be accurate so im looking to buy a bolt, but im not sure what to buy. I want accurate (if im mistaken about the bolt helping accuracy plz tell me). I can handle the barrel. Im curious about the air. How much will HPA help, and whats it take to upgrade?
it will automatically work on HPA so nothing is needed to switch air sources. HPA is always a better choice in the HPA/CO2 war, since it is more consistant, unaffected by weather, getting more shots and all that jazz. so go with HPA. i use the same tank for my 98 as my 'cocker sport and it all seems to work well :)