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Wolf1066 Monday, November 2nd, 2009
Period of
Product Use:
Less than a month2 of 2 people found this review helpful.

3 years
Products Used:
Rental Tippmann 98s - they varied in condition.
Marker Setup: Spyder MR1
Trinity MR series clamping feed neck
Cut down stock
Reshaped trigger and rear trigger stop
14" J&J ceramic barrel
Trinity MR series clamping feed neck first and foremost. Everything else is optional/personal preference.
Strengths: Solid
Easy to strip and reassemble
Value for money
Weaknesses: Nothing that cannot be readily fixed
Review: After reading the reviews here, I decided to get a Spyder MR1 as I determined that its strengths suited my style of play and its reported “weaknesses” were either irrelevant or easily fixed. The only thing I could see being a major issue was the notoriously flimsy feed neck, which would have to be replaced at the earliest opportunity.

I got a second hand MR1 by online auction and the seller, for a few more dollars, included a basic gravity-fed loader, 12oz CO2 tank and a Trinity clamping feed neck. Before it even arrived, I won another auction for a remote to use as an expansion chamber. This gave me marker, tank, loader, upgraded feed neck and remote for less than the cost of a brand new “naked” MR1.

The marker duly arrived and I was not in the least disappointed. It was certainly solidly constructed – I’ve owned shotguns that don’t feel as solid – and it was fairly weighty but not excessive, IMO. Using a remote would drop the weight significantly. Oh, lucky me, I just happen to have one...

The Trinity feed neck was very solid and firmly locked the loader in perfect alignment with the body of the marker. I’d heartily recommend this upgrade over any number of spare plastic elbows.

A look down the business end with the barrel removed gave a clear view of the end of the bolt and the groove to accommodate the ball detent. It was evident that turning the bolt upside down would turn the bolt into a ruthlessly efficient detent-shearing guillotine – no wonder mechanically-inept people have complained about the detent being chopped off. I cocked the marker and felt the detent – it seemed in good condition.

I field-stripped and reassembled it and it is as easy as others have attested – and I made sure I put the bolt in the right way up! With a bit of practice, stripping, cleaning and reassembling the marker would not take long at all.

Many people have complained about the trigger, claiming it’s too hard and has an excessively long draw – and I’ve got to wonder: “Compared with what? An e-trigger?”

I found the trigger pull fairly light compared with real, bullet-firin’, firearms and the draw length was not excessive – it had no slack travel at all, just a short pull against moderate resistance before a sudden break. The after-travel was not far either but could be a little shorter – a stop would fix that and is easy enough to install.

I must admit there is quite a bit of side-play on the trigger but, again, that’s easy enough to fix with a couple of thin washers or metal shims.

I’m not joking when I say I have used real firearms with worse triggers – miles of slack play followed by a long heavy pull and an awful break.

The only thing I would change about the trigger – and this is purely “personal preference” – is to cut off the lower part of the trigger to make it more like a rifle trigger. As I said: personal preference – I prefer to use only the index finger on the trigger and the long trigger interferes with my ability to wrap my middle finger around the grip.

The stock: As others have said: cut the top bar off. Using the unmodified stock, I couldn’t sight the marker without a mask on, let alone with. It was fine after I cut the top bar off – around half an hour’s work by the time I smoothed it up with a file to get rid of rough edges and make it look like it was designed that way.

Using the marker:
First time I took it out (stock barrel) I had absolutely no chops and it performed faultlessly. I'm not a pray-'n'-spray shooter, I prefer to stalk, shoot a few times and relocate. I have no need for ultra-fast rates of fire so the MR1 fires fast enough to suit my needs.
I had a lot of barrel breaks but the PMI Premium paint I’d bought was heavily dimpled and many of the balls did not look spherical – even to something as imprecise as a human eye.
I later set up a target and fired off a number of balls of Elixir without a single break. So let’s just put the barrel breaks down to a bad batch of paint. The Elixir is not a good match for the stock bore (too small, rolls out unimpeded) so its accuracy wasn’t very consistent – three off the target entirely and the rest in a 30cm (1 foot) group at approx 15 metres. The PMI premium is a closer match for the stock bore but the only ones I have are dimpled and/or not spherical.

UPDATE: Took it back out on the field using the Elixir paint and loosed off well over a hundred rounds with no barrel-breaks or chops at all. The accuracy was very consistent even using CO2 and paint that's a bit small for the bore. It was a faster paced game and I had to lay down cover fire and suppressive fire a couple of times - it fired fast enough for the task at hand.

UPDATE 2: Finally made up a rear stop for the trigger - basically a short length of metal down inside the trigger spring to prevent the spring from being compressed all the way. I cut the head off a four-inch nail then cut off a short length of the shaft to make the stop. I didn't measure - just patiently filed it down until the trigger would travel back far enough to release the bolt and a little further. It wound up about 2/3 the length of the uncompressed trigger spring.

While I had the trigger out, I cut off the bottom of the trigger to make it a single finger trigger then smoothed it with the file - as mentioned above, this is a purely "personal preference" sort of mod.

Sadly I did not have a thin-enough washer to fix up the side play.of the trigger so left that for another time.

Once the marker was reassembled with the rear stop in place, I tried a quick rapid fire - the shorter travel made for some really quick shooting comparable with letting rip as fast as possible (forget accuracy) with a .22 semi-automatic rifle.
Conclusion: Ultimately, it’s all about what you want in a marker – which is dependent on how you play. The MR1 suits me fine in a fairly unmodified state, others may want faster rates of fire that warrant e-triggers and electric loaders.
10 out of 10Last edited on Saturday, November 21st, 2009 at 2:11 am PST

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