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williillii Tuesday, November 24th, 2009
Period of
Product Use:
Less than a month3 of 3 people found this review helpful.

2 years
Products Used:
WGP 2003 Vert feed Autococker. Shot great out of the box. Much better choice for a first cocker
Marker Setup: Eclipse Blade hinge frame $125
Maddman spring kit (light valve, light hammer) $12
Freeflow heavy tungsten hammer $40
generic drop forward/asa
macroline kit $15
ANS GenX2 inline regulator w/Dye gauge $15
ANS Ram $15
ANS Jackhammer II LPR $15
Dye Boomstick 12'' .691 w/diy wedgits lol $90
Pure Energy 68/45 HP $70 after hydro test
Empire Reloader B $40
=total of $437
At a minimum, I would suggest a new ram. After that, trigger frame, then a maybe a 3 way depending on how leaky the stock one is. Mine was fine.
Strengths: Cheap, lightweight, attractive milling, nice case.
Weaknesses: Pneumatics are iffy, trigger frame is too small IMO
Review: First Impressions : I payed $70 shipped to my door for a brand new Superbolt with drop forward, asa, and a PMI regulator. It comes in a case which is nice, but as soon as you screw a regulator (not to mention drop forward) onto the gun it no longer fits in the case. Like others have said, the annodizing is pretty bad. It doesn't come off with a fingernail or anything, but be careful if you don't like scratches. The milling looks pretty nice however, and it is significantly lighter than my 03 WGP piece.

Construction: I took the trigger frame off before I even dry fired it. lol. The "thin" frame might be nice for people with tiny hands, but it is basically a really low quality dye hinge knockoff. I had a real dye hinge and sold it after playing one game with it, so this one is definitely not for me either. It is probably the worst part of the gun IMO.

The pneumatics, like everyone says, are pretty crappy as well. However, everyone is knocking on the 3-way first. On my gun anyway, the RAM was actually the biggest turd on the front block. When you tighten it down it doesn't even face the right way, and the tolerances are so bad that unless its fully tightened down it leaks. But then it faces the wrong way, and if you even poke it it leaks, plus its hideous. After o-ring replacement it still leaks and binds, so it had to go. The LPR is actually 'OK'. It is just really hard to turn when the gun is gassed up, and you have greasy paintball-hands. And its also hideous, but at least it works. The three way on the other hand is probably the best part on the front block. It is smooth, short, and feels pretty solid compared to the ram and the LPR. The only downside is it uses non-standard o-rings, and theyre already starting to crack after a case of paint and another case-worth of dry-firing. I don't know where to get this o-ring and they only supplied 1 extra with the gun so I will probably just reluctantly replace this with an orracle or shocktech part before it goes out on me.

As far as internals go, not much to say. The hammer has a recess in the back where the springs goes, making it use a longer hammer spring than a normal cocker. The valve tube in mine was also very tight, and required about 5 minutes of beating it on the ground to get the valve to drop out. The valve-body itself looks like it flows as well as some aftermarket valves (my evil valve looked to have less flow actually) but the valve-stem is not the best. It appears to be a rubber cup seal glued to the metal stem. So we'll see how long that lasts.

As for the rest of the gun, the twist lock bolt is actually kinda cool, Im still debating on getting a sanchez machine delrin bolt, or just halfblocking this thing. The feedneck is a bit small (diameter) and tall...p-block is neat if you don't care about delrin back blocks, it comes with a nice looking cocking rod and chrome ball detent, and the barrel is actually decent if you can find some .693 paint,

Conclusion: Ok, so in summary: If you are buying this gun to take out of the box, gas up and play, DONT DO IT. You will spend the whole first day of play trying to get your gun to shoot/not leak.

Now having said that, if you are like me and always wanted a fully upped Dye Reflex and don't want to break the bank, then these are a good purchase as a pre-milled mini cocker body. Just realize that you might have to replace most of the parts before you have a reliable, smoothly operating cocker.
7 out of 10

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