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The Inflicted Friday, January 1st, 2010
Period of
Product Use:
6 months2 of 2 people found this review helpful.

Paintball
Experience:
More than 5 years
Similar
Products Used:
None
Marker Setup: 2009 Proto SLG
Check it Unimount
WGP Kaner barrel
Recommended
Upgrades:
Tighter barrel.
Strengths: Small, light, and comfortable to use. It's also extremely fast.
Weaknesses: Very finicky, somewhat unreliable, and poorly-equipped for its price point.
Review:
Last May I was in the market for a new "fast" gun to replace my Diablo Wrath. I liked the Wrath, but it had developed a first shot dropoff problem that I couldn't fix and I wanted something smaller and lighter. I eventually narrowed my choices down to the G3, the Mini, and the UL SLG. I chose the SLG because I wanted to buy from my local store and I felt that its Ultralite frame was more comfortable than the other guns'. Also, the gun came with a season's pass to my local paintball field

First impressions of the gun were very good. I like how the gun points with the UL frame, and I REALLY like how low-profile the gun's single-tube design is, putting the hopper very close to your trigger finger. The feedneck is adjustable with an allen wrench and easily accommodates all the loaders I have. It's fairly sturdy too; I took a dive last weekend (ok, I slipped and fell on my face in the mud) that destroyed my VL Revolution's neck but the feedneck of the gun was undamaged.

The gun's trigger is nice too, and I have no desire to upgrade it. It has 3-way adjust-ability using a small allen wrench, and both ends of the travel as well as the activation point can be adjusted without removing anything. I quickly had the trigger set up to my particular tastes. Unfortunately, the poor tolerances of the plastic frame mean that the trigger has a LOT of side-to-side slop, which cannot be corrected with the screws. This gives the gun an unfortunately cheap feeling that spoils the rest of the experience.

The other ergonomics of the gun are pretty good. I like having a good foregrip on my guns, and found that the stylized "nail" on the front of the trigger guard was getting in the way of my thumb. So I dremeld it off.

Stock barrel is wide enough to stick your arm through, and thus useless.

The gun has no "safe" mode, you just turn it on and off by pushing the lower button on the rear of the grip frame. I found that I sometimes had to shield this light with my hand to see it in sunny weather, and that the button was still easy to push even with gloves on.

My SLG has never demonstrated the first-shot-drop-off problems that plagued my Wrath, nor has it ever chopped a ball.

Out of the box my SLG was shooting around 290fps, +- 5fps. I chroned it down to 275 as per the field limit back in May, and as of late December I haven't had to adjust it since.

The gun's ASA is the rail-based DYE airport. It's not an on/off ASA, but you can adjust the length of the activation pin inside, and there's a bit of leeway back and forth in terms of where it sits on the frame. I and a lot of other users have had trouble getting this ASA to be tight enough, but I think I've discovered the problem: Since the frame is plastic, the dovetail rail itself is actually a separate aluminum piece that fits into the bottom of the frame and is tightened with two screws into standard AGD/WGP bottomline mounting holes. If these two screws come loose, the ASA will continue to be loose, no matter how hard you tighten the dovetail locking screw. These screws thread into steel nuts wedged into the plastic of the frame, and unlike some other guns I've recently worked on (Smart Parts SP1) the nuts do not slide around in the frame. Once they're tight and hopefully loc-tited, the problem goes away.

I should note that this is one of two problems that are easy fixes, but not mentioned in the otherwise very nice full-color instruction booklet. The other is the battery. The poor tolerances of the plastic frame as well as DYE's deceision to use battery contact blades integral to the frame instead of a more traditional 9v battery clip, means that most normally-sized 9v batteries are actually too small to fit properly into the grip frame. A small piece of paper wedged between the frame and the battery fixes this problem, but it's annoying that you have to cram cardboard into a $300 gun to get it work properly.

Another downside of the gun is that it lacks an on/off ASA and a lever-locking feedneck, standard features on guns like the Mini and G3 which are similarly-priced.

Now, the good parts! This gun is very, very fast. The board will let you run it up to 30bps and dry-firing it and goldwaving the video confirmed that it will indeed cycle that fast. DYE has put some videos on Youtube of SLGs with Rotors hitting 25bps or faster with no problems. Unfortunately, the fastest loader I have is a VL Force. Besides, my field has a speed limit of 10bps, so I just ran my SLG at that speed.

Although the SLG cannot be disassembled when gassed up, disassembly is very easy. Use an allen wrench to disassemble the backcap and all the moving parts come out in two easy to clean pieces.

I did run into a number of problems with my SLG. The first is that the rear bolt bumper tends to tear itself apart very quickly. My first first one disintegrated after about a case of use, and the second, which is still on the bolt in the picture below, had only around 800 shots.

This seal is unique tire-shaped piece and I haven't found a suitable replacement except from the gun's parts kit and Proto themselves. As the bumper wore out I noticed an audible "pinging" noise when the gun was fired, but the marker's actual function was not impaired. Supposedly Proto has come up with a superior, longer-lasting rear bumper that is orange in color, but I haven't been able to get one yet.

The second problem with my SLG occurred after I cleaned and lubricated the gun. This time I used TAG "Mugg" lubricant instead of the DYE Slick lube included with the gun. After reassembly, I found that the gun was going into runaway full auto all by itself, sometimes after taking a shot and sometimes as soon as the gun was gassed up. I removed the bolt assembly and tried cleaning off the mugg and replacing it with the factory lube, but the problem persisted. After that I figured the problem was the sear, so I removed the grip frame and inspected it. It appeared fine, and I didn't notice any excessive wear either on the sear or the edge of the bolt where the sear grips it. At the suggestion of someone on another forum, I removed the sear spring and stretched it a bit. In the process I later realized that I had to clean off all the lubrication that might have been stuck to the sear. After reassembly, the full-auto problem went away.

Unfortunately, stretching the sear spring had caused another problem and my SLG was now refusing to fire reliably. It now took two or three trigger pulls to get the gun to go off, probably because the solenoid was now having to overcome both the increased tension of the sear spring and the force of the bolt. I was able to remedy this problem by using a fresher battery and increasing the dwell a notch.

The next time I used the SLG, I ran into problems again. The SLG's indicator light was blinking green, indicating dirty eye sensors. However, the eyes were clean and even after cleaning them again to make sure the error light persisted.

I do want to stress that every time my SLG pitched a fit, it did so at the very beginning of the day, so I was never surprised or caught in the middle of an important game without a gun to use. In fact, over the course of all these episodes it never once broke a ball, even when going into runaway full auto.

Programming the SLG is fairly straightforward but somewhat cumbersome. The left side of the grip must be removed to allow access to the dip switch box and the switches put into programming mode. You then use a combination of trigger pulls and button pushes to change the dwell, ROF, and firing mode while watching the 7-color LED for feedback. It's time-consuming, and I appreciate the fact that no one's going to be able to do this on the field. The SLG lacks true 3-shot burst and full-auto modes, but the PSP and Millennium modes do pretty much the same thing and are a little safer besides, since you have to be shooting the gun pretty quickly to get them to activate. I did notice that the 3-shot burst of the PSP mode automatically degrades itself to a 2-shot burst at 10bps, but at that speed the gun's eyes and antichop logic is usually going to even things out into a nearly full-auto behavior anyway.

The last time I used my SLG was last Saturday, about 7 months since I bought it. This time, the gun performed absolutely flawlessly and I put about 1500 rounds through it over the course of the afternoon. I broke 3 balls with the gun, but I believe all three were barrel breaks caused by underboring with brittle paint in cold weather. The bolt itself was clean.
Conclusion: Unless you're determined to have the cheapest-avalailable gun with a DYE UL frame, I would advise you to look at other guns instead of the UL SLG. Perhaps if DYE/Proto can resolve the problems with the sear and improve the tolerances of the frame, the Invert Mini, Dangerous Power G3, or a blackhearted Vibe are all probably better choices.
Rating:
7 out of 10
 

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