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DChen Thursday, May 13th, 2010
Period of
Product Use:
Less than a month8 of 8 people found this review helpful.

Paintball
Experience:
Less than a month
Similar
Products Used:
Tippmann Pro-Lite (Self Refurbished)
Tippmann 98 rental (Self-Refurbished)
Marker Setup: Kingman Spyder MR1
16" MR1 Sniper Barrel / 6" Recon Barrel with M4 Tip
Proto Primo Loader
RAP4 Clamping FeedNeck
Spyder MR1 Sniper CAR Stock
Remote Air Setup With Spyder 48ci/3000psi
Recommended
Upgrades:
Stock Barrel is Accurate.
-A shorter barrel will still result in roughly the same accuracy within 40 feet with this marker, but there is noticably more spread after that.
-16" barrel made for tighter groupings at 50 feet and up.
-Clamping Feedneck. Stock Feedneck is too high mounted, and broke on my first game.
-Hopper Upgrade. Viewloader works fine, but you can achieve relatively high BPS with the light trigger pull of the MR1. *Theres is more distance to cover then a 98 Custom but the tigger pull is far lighter*
Strengths: Accurate, Durable, Easy to Maintenance.
Weaknesses: High Stock FPS, Top Cocking Open Bolt.
Review: The Spyder MR1 was the first marker i purchased after playing on rental equipment for several games within the same month.

Introduction
Out of the box and onto the field, the stock MR1 chrono'ed in at 330 FPS on my HPA.Swapping out the springs to low settings, i was still hitting 305 FPS with the velocity adjuster all the way to the right. Swapping that to a CO2 tank on the remote line, i was flucuating between 295 and 310 FPS. The field i was playing at was leaning towards not allowing me to play, but due to the fact that it was a Semi-Auto, it was finally tagged as a high-end marker and allowed onto the field. The MR1 is Solid, and plays well to those that arent picky about weight or overall size. Aesthetically pleasing to the eye, looks and feels like a real firearm.

Maintenance
Simply and Easy to field strip and clean.
-Pull the top cocking pin out, slide out the bolt, and run a swap through it.
-If you have a stock, use the included hex wrench. Takes less then 30 seconds drop the stock, retain the screw, pull the pin, drop the bolt, and run a swab through it.
Off Field Cleaning
NEVER TAKE OUT THE STRIKER BOLT LOCATED INSIDE THE BOTTOM CHAMBER *Accessible after removing the Velocity Adjuster* WITHOUT FIRST REMOVING THE TRIGGER FRAME
Doing so without first noting the precaution with make you wonder why your gun is suddenly leaking air, when you finally realized the O-Ring on your Striker bolt was sliced in half by the sear after you jammed the striker back into the chamber and pulled the trigger to drop it in place.
Bolt Precautions
Make sure your bolt is going in the right way, with the ball detent notch/trench located on the RIGHT SIDE of your marker. You dont want to slice off your ball detent and then complain about why your Spyder is chopping paint and double feeding.

General Info
-Relatively cheap "Low-End" Marker, $90 MSRP for the marker itself.
-Stock FPS is Extremely High. 330 FPS NOTE. Buy a Spring Kit and prepare to cut springs if your field does not allow you to play at 300 FPS.
-Easy to field strip and maintain
-Solid construction, reliable paint slinging.
-Air Efficiency, on average i was getting 500 shots off a 480 rated tank.
-Air through magazine is well placed for a foregrip. IMO.
-Stock barrel is accurate out of the box, actually no need to upgrade.
-Find a hopper that can feed at least 8~10 bps, the semi-auto on this MR1 is quite consistent in that department, with a lighter tripper pull and double trigger, it is easy to shoot at least 8 bps for brief bursts. Even faster if you can effectively piano key the trigger although that is very exhausting. Why would one attempt to break 11b bps on a semi auto on the stock trigger in the first place.
-Stock feedneck i sout of the question. get a new one.
OPEN BOLT ISSUE
There is no difference in FPS between open bolt and closed bolt. jsut that dust dirt grime and a multitude of junk can get into it throughout the day and you get "hiccups" in your marker, making you believe you just chopped a ball.
Rack the cocker back and keep shooting. clean out your chamber after the game.

The top cocking bolt also ruins any attempts to add accessories onto the top mounting rail, other then the raised weaver.

Aiming down the front sights gives you a natural arc in your shots, works at distances where you can just point and shoot.

Paint/Barrel Match
This is critical for your MR1.
Shot 2 cases of Diablo F13s, 1case Diablo Podium Series, and 500 Evils. not a single break so far.
If your breaking balls with this marker, your obviously shooting faster then what your hopper can supply. its also a BLOWBACK so drill a hole in your stock feedneck ti release the air that goes up the stack and possibly chop balls. You dont have to worry once you switch to a feedneck with holes or slots, the blowback is ported and the balls will not be chopped as long as you dont try to shoot past the hoppers feed rate.

Upgrades
Of all things to upgrade as far as im concerned, everything esle besides Barrel, Hopper, Stock, Feedneck, Xpansion Chamber/Regulator for CO2, Remote Kit, and possibly a scope is just plain cosmetics. You dont need that useless plastic shroud, or the expensive plastic magazine that you couldve played another game or bought another case of paint for, those are just unneccesary for a working, reliable marker.
Conclusion: A Solid recreational marker, that can be upgraded for a hefty price tag.
E-MR1 would be a better starting choice if you wanted the fire rate, but the MR1's completely mechanical operating system is a no brainer for anyone that can follow simple directions and visual cues. Simple, Effective, and Cheap. Reminds me of the Pro-Lite i currently own in terms of accuracy and reliability of shots.
Rating:
9 out of 10Last edited on Thursday, May 13th, 2010 at 8:50 pm PST
 

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