TIppmann A5: 16" JJ Barrel/14" CP/10" Tiller/3" Aluminum barrel, A5 to spyder thread insert adapter, Low profile X7 hopper, Tech T squishy Paddles, Response Trigger (Was using H.E. E-Grip until is tore itself apart.), Rufus Dawg blade double trigger (Tech T Fang Double Trigger with e-grip), Dead On Paintball 6.5 inch drop forward with On/off ASA, custom made wooden foregrip.
Azodin Kaos: ER Db Hopper
Delta 68: Dummy 12 Gram, Bottomline ASA
Spyder TL + (This is the only gun I have running off of CO2)
Invert Mini Storm LE with Empire Prophecy loader
I have been using this product for about 7 months now. I have probably fired about 12000 + paintballs through the e- grip alone.
I must say, this e-grip was great. I will miss it. I never exposed it to water, cold, heat, damp environments, dirt, dust, paint residue or anything. I took very good care of it because I loved the way it fired and the sheer level to which I could dominate opponents with it. I have changed the battery 3 times over the past 7 months and only the last time did I let the battery actually die. If I waited for the battery to die before, I could probably get around 4500 shots per battery.
Over the past month it has been giving me some problems. Today, it flat out quit on me. After spending time dismantling my trigger frame and looking at the internals with 2 techs, we determined that for some reason power was being supplied to the board, but not the solenoid. When we began looking online to see if anybody else had a similar issue, we were surprised with what we found:
It appears that the new H.E. e-grips have a problem that is starting to come to light. The solenoid, while it seems to be contained in the grip housing tightly, actually moves very slightly in the grip frame. Over time, this slight movement causes the wires that connect the solenoid to the electronics board to twist, stretch and eventually snap (Tippmann seems to have really cheaped out on these wires).
If you know a good electrician, this problem can be fixed. Unfortunately I don't know anyone personally and I am not willing to pay one for the hour or so it would take to fix (electricians are expensive $60 is what i was quoted for an hour plus materials). Apparently if you send your e grip back to tippmann they will fix it no questions asked as this is becoming a more common problem than they would like to admit. Most of the time they will just give you a new e-grip. After factoring in the cost of shipping and the fact that, chances are, the same problem will occur in another 10k paintballs, I'm starting to think this e-grip may be more trouble than it is worth.
I'm not saying that EVERYBODY will have this problem, I'm just saying that I DID, and many other people seem to have had this exact same problem as well.
I'm starting to contemplate going with a response trigger...
-EDIT- So I installed a response trigger and have been using it for a couple games now. I must say, I like the feel of the RT much more than the selector switch. The selector switch has that two round safety that the RT does not. There have been many times that I have iced my opponents using Egrips simply because I can get full auto bps rate on my first trigger pull, while they have to take 3. After getting the RT, I am kind of upset I wasted my money on the selector switch. Just thought I should let y'all know..
-EDIT 2- SO.. I took my e-grip to a computer/electronics technician today. He took one look at the way the solenoid was attached to the board and said 'Wow, there is a huge design flaw here, I'm surprised these things don't break more often.' I told him that the selector switches are not that old, so therefore most people probably haven't run the same amount of shots through them I have. He responded ' Yeah, this thing looks like it was made to break after a while - It's just a really cheap design, the combination of the solenoid sitting at a 45 degree angle, the plastic stabilizer sheath and the violent action of the gun firing, of course its going to break!' He told me that he could fix it for $15 but it was probably just going to break again. Changing score to a 2 because Tippmann obviously made a sub-standard product. Hearing a computer/electronics whiz like this guy tell me that this thing is basically designed to break really dis-heartened me. I am very disappointed in Tippmann for producing such a low quality product. I hope they realize they really screwed up with this e-grip and re-design it. Tippmann has been known as THE brand to buy for rugged, battle tested products and this H.E. E-grip makes me question where the brand is heading.
Read the review. Buyer beware.
I would have rated lower than 4, but while this thing worked it was great. I was contemplating not writing this review but when I noticed nobody else had touched on this problem, I had to. Look on forum threads - this problem is becoming too common! Get the WAS grip instead!
EDIT 2 - Please refer to both edits (especially Edit 2) in order to understand this, but I am revising my score to 2. There is a serious design flaw with the H.E. E-Grip at the moment. The wires that connect the solenoid to the board are flimsy. The plastic sheath that is supposed to stabilize the solenoid on the board is flimsy. The action of the gun creates a shearing movement on the wires that connect the solenoid to the board. The fact that the solenoid sits on a 45 degree angle to the board contributes to this shearing motion. All of these factors mean your H.E. Egrip is not going to last. Because Tippmann did not do enough research or testing and allowed such a flawed product to be sold under their name, renowned for ruggedness and durability, I am revising my score to a 2 (from a 4). I am very disappointed in this product. If you buy one, you will love it at first. But it won't last. I guarantee you that by the 20 000 ball mark your e-grip will be on the verge of ripping itself apart. This is officially the worst designed paintball product I have ever bought. 2.
2 out of 10
Last edited on Monday, June 6th, 2011 at 7:46 am PST