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wintermutt Sunday, April 17th, 2011
Period of
Product Use:
2 years7 of 7 people found this review helpful.

More than 5 years
Products Used:
spyder, trracer,
Marker Setup: i have three markers, a spec-r a spyder mr-1 and a trracer.
i have two 68/4500 carbon tanks, one a ninja the other a crossfire.
invert halo too
APE OLED board
i have used all sorts of paint. evil ultra has been working well for me lately.
i have two barrel sets, an edge and an empire. i like the edge better.
Strengths: EZ maintenance, fast, accurate, light, EZ on paint, looks good,
Weaknesses: Fussy with bolt lube choices, efficiency, macroline fittings,need to lube every 4 hours
Review: the Good.(spec r)
lightest marker on the market. great stock barrel. very EZ on paint, you will never break a ball in the breech or barrel with the stock barrel. it is a spoolie which means easy to maintain and not much kick.
accuracy is very good WITH GOOD (ROUND) PAINT. maintenance (routine) is shockingly easy and simple. i use dow 33 (sleek) or hater sauce. adjustable trigger. light recoil especially considering how light it is. accurate - i can one ball target shoot by lining up the end of the barrel with the indentation in the hopper neck when aiming. above average regulator. nice manual. comes in a nice box. i like the trigger, it is adjustable to suit your style. out of the box mine had a hair trigger. it is a good looking marker i get lots of + comments. i use the APE grips that came with my APE OLED because they have a little window to see the OLED. custom grips are easy to find. (just do a google search for custom pb grips). the stock grips are really comfortable and grip well. there is a nice parts kit for 60 dollars that you should purchase if you plan to use the marker regularly, it really is a good deal and unless you have a back up marker you will wish you had it someday...
if you have no money at least buy an o ring kit, all o rings look the same (to me anyway) but you need the correct size. the only o ring i have had to replace is the little one on the tip of the back cap (AKA the plug) (the one that slides in the bolt). very easy to access that one.

the Bad.
macroline fittings are a struggle to get loosened.many people replace them. try using a wrench (same size as fitting) and hold down the macroline fitting with the wrench then pull the tubing back. you need to lube the bolt just before shooting for the day (this takes 3 minutes) and every 4 hours of shooting (lately i have been going all day only lubing in the morning using hater sauce). the type of lube is important. dow 33 works well (AKA sleek) hater sauce works and is green. do NOT use DP40 lube on the bolt. you will get bolt stick if you use the wrong lube.
if you take a paintball hit to the trigger your marker may become inoperative until you clean the inside of the gun.
(this has only happened once).
it uses more air than poppet type guns. you need to really get that back cap tight before using (it comes with a set of allen wrenches). you may have to re-tighten the back cap during the day of shooting. if this happens a lot you might need to replace an o ring on the plug, or put less or no lube on the last o-ring on the plug, also make sure no lube on the plug threads. the plug is the large piece that screws in the back of the marker.
with cheap paint that is not round you will not shoot straight with the stock barrel. if you must shoot cheap paint then i suggest you get a barrel set and under bore. cheap paint will shoot straight if you under bore. but in my opinion you are better off with expensive paint and the stock barrel (.689) at least when you are getting started.I PAID 450 dollars for mine . now they sell new for 399. to change an interior o ring will need a (dental type) pick. i have had the marker over a year and have not needed to change an interior o ring. (by interior i mean they are deep in the breech). the marker is light because it is aluminum, if you put too much torque on the screws you could strip them, this has never happened to me but i have heard about it. i tighten screws finger tight then 1/4 or 1/2 turn more. go over that and you are tightening too much. consider blue or violet locktite on the screws if you are worried.

having problems? try this.
1. change the battery. anything less than 80% charge won't work.
2. relube the bolt with dow 33. it is very unusual to need to service the noid or the regulator, so don't mess with those yet. when you lube the bolt, spin it a little in the barrel so nothing is missed.
3. make sure the back cap is on tight.
4. clean your barrels with soap and water.
5. change the battery in your hopper.
6. if it is cold, buy winter paint (shells are thicker).
7. change the o-rings on the plug if they look stiff/hard.
8. clean the eyes
these simple checks will fix 99% of your problems. if they don't, check out the dangerous power forum at Pb Nation.
9. this is how you maintain the solenoid
10. a guide to complete teardown/rebuild is here

Conclusion: putting expensive brittle paint exactly where you want it without the paint breaking in your marker is the spec-r's best feature. the marker is light and reliable and fast. i am really glad i bought it. but do not expect it to perform if you use cheap paint. there is not much downside to this marker. if you are looking to buy a G3 spec-r i would also look at the DP G4 which is very similar and sells for less money. if i were looking for a new marker and it was between a G3 spec-r or a DP G4 given the price difference it would be a tough choice. i am sold on spoolies so i personally would not consider a DP FX (which is a poppet type marker) but if the type of marker is unimportant to you then you should also look at the DP FX which is more money but comes with an OLED board (which you will have to add on to the G4 and spec-r ) and is more air efficient than spoolies. poppets are harder on paint and more difficult to maintain which is why i prefer spoolies. Good Hunting!
9 out of 10Last edited on Saturday, August 20th, 2011 at 7:20 pm PST

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