Some electro markers:
Intimidator, Flash, Electro gripframe on a Shutter, Mephisto, Electro-cocker, Micro emag
Tippmann 98 Custom, BS Electropneumatics, LP Valve, Bigshot, much other stuff.
It is fully electropneumatic, unlike the grip-frame electro upgrades for Spyders and the like. Those are just electronically controlled seers/triggers connected to a spring powered hammer. This replaces the hammer with a chip-controlled ram, just like you would see on any top-end electro. It is fully tournament legal with a switch that locks it into semi-auto with no effective ROF limit, and the switch is easy to access.
It is very easy to program for many different options. You can set the max rate of fire, any length burst you like, reactive mode (fires on pull AND release - my favorite), response (semi-auto, turns to reactive when fired quickly), and much more. The two-color LED is a really handy touch, the kit is well made, the trigger becomes REALLY nice, the mini-reg seems nice and is easy to use (if a little ugly), the board is well made, the company has great customer service (if you call them, always call them, don't email). The parts of the ram are higher quality than the Tippmann kit, and the ram's return speed is much higher, allowing you to get above the practical 10bps limit of the GTA kit. You can run it on a non-ASA threaded nitro bottle, unlike the Tippmann kit. It also works on a Model 98, unlike the Tippmann kit. The gun is quieted quite a bit, and there is almost no kick to the marker at all any more. It is far more precise consistant now, and SO BLOODY FUN TO PLAY WITH. It rips.
It is a total pain to take the marker apart now, the wires from the battery to the board are short yet still need to be connected to the board before closing the receiver. This can lead to almost an hour worth of frustrating fiddling trying to get the parts all to fit together. I'm thinking of having an electrician install a plug in the battery case so I don't have to deal with this. The holes in the board are big enough that the pins that hold it in place play too much. Not a problem with a stock trigger job, but if you add trigger stops you need to modify the pins or boards to get below a 4mm pull. Finally, I recommend putting a small o-ring on the actuating rod where it goes into the ram, to keep in from going too far in or out of the ram.
The end cap is replaced with a longer ram piece, lengthening the marker 1 1/2" (see the photos) and you cannot mount a CAR stock on the back with it (unless you order a custom back and stock from BS). Still no way to run the RT kit and with the electro kits simultaneously (that would be incredibly sweet, just like the emag... an air assisted electro trigger.. drool).
This thing is so fun that just writing this makes me want to pull out my marker and play with it in my living room. Whee! Unless you want to make a custom pneumatic kit like Natural Newbie, this is the best you can get.
9 out of 10
Last edited on Tuesday, March 2nd, 2004 at 9:54 am PST