the stock hammer assembly w/ stock internals and the stock hammer assembly w/ nd internals
Ratpulse, vision, OTB trigger frame blue, VFF (non functional), custom adrenaline thunder freak set, GP valve w/ lpr set-up (run through the asa), rip valve, 5" equalizer bolt, hsw derlin bolt pin, nd silk shot ram+ND mid wieght hammer, rat halo low rise, 88/4.5k pmi tank, aka sidewinder, and the most important part, the chrome on/off button. also halo b
more shots per tank, no fsdo, perfectly balanced w/ voodoo or equalizer bolts
to tell you the truth, if you had to name 5 of the best upgrades for any impulse, this would be it. before i continue, i want to make on thing clear; this review is for a new designz high efficiency hammer assembly w/ a mid-wieght ss hammer, and a silk shot ram. on to the review... when i installed this and gassed my gun up, i swear my gun was able to cycle smoother than it did with the stock internals and even with just the silk shot ram. the main thing about this part (for me as i am a back player) is that i can get an incredible amont of shots per tank with this, an lpr, and a voodoo bolt w/ a strange bolt pin (i also have a sidewinder inline). since i play back and need to shoot a lot, i was previously using an 88ci and even with an lpr i still only got 1800 shots per tank. i have using my 88ci, i could go on for hours about how much i despise it, but i won't. when i heard about this new new designz product and that it premoted efficiency, i was all for it. once i started to use it i was amazed at how may more shots i got with it, 2500+/- shots with my 88ci tank and lpr. my god. now i have switched back to my 70ci tank and couldn't be happier. oh yah, my voodoo bolt + my strange bolt pin and the internals that come with the new designz he hammer assembly wiegh out to 1237grains, the closest to perfect wieght you can have (in my experiences at least).
fsdo wasn't and has never been an issue for me, but this product should also cure it. buy this if you want to rid yourself of fdso or/and you want to be able to shoot more. great product.
10 out of 10
Last edited on Sunday, February 1st, 2004 at 7:09 pm PST
first off, i dont really like brass eagle. i chose my sn to be funny. i just did that so i would sound less newby than i am about to sound right now. hopefully u can help me. lets say i was going to get a New Designz Pro Delrin Bolt. would i have to get a new hammer? because people said that it wouldnt work well because the bolt is too light. i know alot of general stuff about the impulse. but im still working on the internals.
no, you do not NEED to buy a new hammer or bolt if you are going to buy the New Designz Pro Delrin bolt (aka, the Equalizer bolt). you might want to get a new hammer and silk shot ram later on, but they shouldn't be a big priority. it depends what your overal gun setup is too-what is it? thanks.
Okay, what do spyders, angels, bushmaster, vikings, and intimidators have in common? Well, they all operate on the same basic design; a bolt over a hammer that moves forward when the trigger is pulled (from either the force of a ram and solenoid-i'll explain later-or a spring, like on spyders) and opens a valve which sends air to the paintball and out it goes.
A solenoid is what begins the firing process on impulses, if you were an impulse the circuit board would be your brain and the solenoid your heart. When the gun fires, a signal is sent to the solenoid (it is actually called a solenoid valve, but I will just call it a solenoid) and the solenoid opens and sends a burst of air behind the ram which pushes the hammer/bolt (the bolt is connect to the hammer by a bolt pin) forward. Then the solenoid closes and sends a burst of air to the front of the ram sending it shooting backwards and thus moving the hammer/bolt back into "cocked" position. It is a little bit like how a 3-way on an Autococker, but a lot faster and more precise due to it being electronically controlled.
In an impulse, what happens when the trigger is pushed it this:
1) A micro switch is activated which sends an electrical pulse to the circuit board which in turn sends another signal to the solenoid to open it's valve.
2) The solenoid valve opens and sends a burst of air to an air cavity behind the ram and the air wants to expand and so it pushes the ram forward. The hammer (the ram is screwed into the ram, so when the ram moves forward, so does the hammer) is connected to the bolt by means if a bolt pin.
3) Then, at exactly the same time, the hammer hits the gunís main valve, opening it which sends a burst of air out to the paintball threw the bolt and the bolt pushes a ball past the detent (commonly referred to as ball dents, they keep the gun from double feeding) and into/out the barrel.
4) Then the solenoid (after a set amount of time, normally around 10 milliseconds depending on what the dwell (dwell=how long the hammer holds the main valve open=how much air is put behind the paintball=fps) is set at, shoots a burst of air to an air cavity in front of the ram and the hammer is pull back from the main valve (which closes due to a spring which forces it close) and also pulls the bolt back at the same time which lets another ball fall into the breach ready to be fired.
That is how the impulse works.
Here is what and how a tape worm works. Also I added some information about lprís:
Okay, here we go... a tapeworm is a solenoid restrictor. What it does is that it "restricts" are from being sucked away from the solenoid valve (which is what moves the bolt/hammer and makes the gun fire-the solenoid bolt can only do this with sufficient air pressure). What happens, is that when you pressurize your impulse, air fills up the valve cavity and the solenoid cavity (the valve and the solenoid valve are different-the valve puts air into the bolt and eventually get to a paintball, while the solenoid valve is basically, a separate electronic valve that controls the movement of the hammer/bolt/ram). When the impulse is fired, the valve opens and air flows out of it into the bolt and out behind a paintball. When the valve opens though, it sucks air away and out of the solenoid cavity. What the tapeworm does, for 20$, is it restricts air from leaving the solenoid valve cavity, and thus the valve can't suck air away from the solenoid which in turn uses that air to move the bolt/hammer which is how the gun is fired. Then since no air is being sucked away from the solenoid you can lower your operating pressure, which can help to prevent ball chopping a little as well as helping efficiency a bit to.
A VFF (Voodoo Full Flow), a HFV (High Flow Vertical), and a HFA (High Flow Angled) don't do the same thing, but for 30$ more than a tapeworm, they supply the solenoid valve with a consistent uninterrupted supply of air that is at the same pressure as what the air is being regulated at the max-flo (or whatever inline reg you're using).
An LPR supplies the solenoid valve with an uninterrupted supply of air at a lower pressure than that at that gun's valve. Why that is so good (in other words, why is an lpr so good?)? Well, an LPR is the best because since it supplies the solenoid valve with air at a lower pressure than the air at the gun's valve, you can either:
1) Raise the operating pressure of the gun (turn the inline reg up) and turn the dwell down (the dwell is how long the valve is held open-the longer the valve is open, the more air gets to the paintball, the higher the velocity is) as well as turning the lprís output pressure down,
2) You can keep the operating pressure low (120psi), turn the dwell up (keep the valve open longer), and turn the lpr's output pressure down.
The first list of things you can do results in less air being used and that means you get the more shots out of your tank (this is because less air is supplied to the paintball with the velocity staying at the same place that it would normally be because the pressure that is put behind the ball is higher than it normally would be and the dwell is turned down-valve is held open for a shorter amount of time-which results in less air being used) while also lowering the normal solenoid pressure which can result in less ball chopping (since the air pushing the ram/hammer/bolt comes from the solenoid at about 150psi normally, there is less chance of the bolt chopping a ball in half if the solenoidís pressure is at 65psi because there is less force pushing the bolt forward).
If you do the second list of things with your lpr, you will use more air, (get less out of a tank), but you will also lower the bolt's operating pressure (which is the same as the solenoid valve because the solenoid valve is what powers the bolt/hammer). this results in less balls being chopped because not as much force is being applied to them because the bolt is being operated at a lower pressure.
Now if you read wolverine's faq, you would know all that by now, but by now i have come to expect that not to many people actually read it so, i have given you the dumb wieght out. Thanks again wolverine for your faq, you have put a lot of time into it and are continueing to update it so, well, thanks-if it wasn't for your faq i would know squawt about impulses.
-Nowadays, delrin is the shiznit, and if it is made from delrin it must be good. Why is delrin so popular though? Well, to answer that question, we need to understand why metal bolts are so unpopular, at least for impulses.
-When you buy an impulse for instance, one of the first upgrade you should by is a delrin bolt. Why delrin, what is wrong with the metal bolts? Well, the main thing is friction. Since no metal has a perfectly smooth surface, friction is created when the bolt moves (like rubbing to pieces of sand paper together, but on a smaller scale), so that means you have to use some sort of lubricant to let the bolt move smoothly. Also, since the metal doesnít have a perfectly smooth surface, it will not seal properly and will require o-rings to make a complete seal, which will, in turn, create more friction that further slows the bolt down and requires -the use of even more lube.
-So how is delrin better? Well delrin is a type of plastic that is ďself lubricating.Ē Now that statement is a little confusing, because the bolt doesnít lubricate it self or anything, what is does is that the type of plastic delrin is made from doesnít create any friction when it moves against a metal surface so that means you never need to lubricate it *. Also, since delrin has a perfectly smooth surface (actually, on a very small scale it acts like a sponge that can change itís circumference just a tiny tiny bit which enables it to expand/decrease in size to fit the bolt chamber perfectly-you wonít be able to notice this though, itís not like you can squeeze the bolt and it will squish like a sponge or anything like that), no o-rings are needed because the delrin creates a perfect seal (which means no lube, blowback, and friction). Also, since delrin is a type of plastic it is much much lighter than the stock aluminum bolt, and delrin bolts on average weight at least half as much as the stock aluminum bolt, if not one third as much as the stock bolt. That decrease in weight means that the hammer can cycle faster, partially because of the reduced weight and partially that the center of mass now lies over the hammer (which is heavier than the delrin bolt) so it has less resistance when it cycles. The decrease in wieght, on some impulses also mean that you can turn the operating pressure down which means less chopping and more shots per fill. Another plus for delrin is that since it is a softer material than metal, it wonít scratch up the interior of your impulse like the stock metal bolt will. If anything, the bolt will get scratched up, not the interior of the gun (which would you rather have to replace, a new delrin bolt for 30$ or a whole new body for your impulse for at least 300$?).
-Well, is there anything out there that is better than delrin? Yes. How could anything be better than delrin? Well, there are different variations on delrin, but most types of delrin have the ability to absorb water (for the same reason it can form a perfect seal, it kinda soaks the water up like a sponge). If you clean your delrin bolt with water for example, or live in Louisiana in the humid seasons and leave you bolt out of your gun for a while, there is a good chance that the bolt will absorb water, expand in size just a tiny bit and not fit in your gun anymore. No, that isnít a major problem, and in fact, there are no major problems with delrin, just little nit picky ones. Another little down side to delrin though is that is weaker than metal and thus wonít last as long-but like I said before, which would you rather have to replace, a new derlin bolt for 30$ or a whole new body for your impulse for at least 300$? Also, since delrin bolts weigh so much less than the stock aluminum bolts, they have the ability to throw off the internal balance of the impulse, which can result in erratic velocity and your gun acting up just in general (I do not know why this is, I mean, I would think the lighter the better, but this isnít necessarily true). For example, the stock internals of the impulse weigh 1526 grains and just by adding a delrin bolt, your internals will then weight, at most, 1177 grains. Now since, for another reason I cannot explain, all impulses act a little differently from one another, this will be a problem for some, but not for others. If it is a problem you can solve it by buying a brass hammer (which weighs considerable more than the stock aluminum hammer) for 20$.
-So tell me, what material is better than delrin? Well, their isnít one specific type of material that is better, but some companies, like FreeFlow and Bandit Bolts are starting to make bolts out of nylon composite materials (some called nylatron). They have all the benefits of delrin, they weight about the same, yet are stronger and do not absorb water like certain types of derlin. There is no down side to nylatron.
-In conclusion though, I would go with a delrin bolt for your impulses instead of a nylatron bolt though. Delrin bolts are easier to find, cheaper and now come in any color (from wermmods/imperial paintball at least).
-Hope you all could understand that, pm me if you have any questions.
* You actually shouldnít be lubing your delrin bolt on your impulse because the lube acts like glue and slows the bolt down-not to mention delrin is meant to have a dry surface and only functions best with one.
Now, most upgrades for your impulse are good right? True. More and more upgrades on your impulse are even better, right? True. Now the more you upgrade you gun the better it gets, right? True (I bet you think this is dumb, but just wait). Even though all of the above is definitely true, there is one huge popular misconception about upgrading. That is, many people believe (and this is a very common and understandable mistake) that even once you upgrade your gun more and more, making it better and better, the parts you put on it will still have the huge, "how could I have lived without this before," effect on the gun's performance. In other words, many believe that if they own a gun, like a Rat Jr. for example (which comes with a voodoo bolt), that if they buy an equalizer (the bolt), their performance will get much much better (their gunís performance will be better, but not that much better or even nearly as much as they believed, or were led to believe it would get). That is because people, like me, go around these forums telling people with stock impulse (or lightly upgraded impulses with no new bolt) to buy a new designz equalizer bolt because it is better than any other bolt. Even though this is true, they still expect to see the amazing results out of their setup+the equalizer bolt that one might see out of a stock impulse and an equalizer bolt (now I know the results are not than amazing, but the equalizer does work much much better than the stock bolt/the equalizer to stock bolt ratio is much more than the equalizer to voodoo bolt ratio).
-Think of it in numbers, first we rate the bolt,
-Now put them into ratios,
Equalizer over stock = 10/1 = 10
Equalizer over voodoo = 10/8 = 1.25
-Now you mathematically see that the performance difference between the equalizer and stock is much higher than the performance difference between the equalizer and voodoo, which tells you that there is a huge improvement when upgrading from a stock to equalizer, but less of an increase in performance when up grading from a voodoo to equalizer.
Okay, Iíll give you time to digest that...
So what Iím saying is that people need to realize that once you have a super hooked up impulse, something like a new valve or different bolt or bolt pin won't increase their gun's performance as if they only owned a ďpoor man's pulseĒ and bought the same part.
Again, in other words, the more you upgrade, the harder it becomes to get your gun to work noticeably better after each successive upgrade. I hope everyone who reads this understands what Iím trying to say, and it really isn't that big of an issue, just something I would like all of you good people to be aware of.
wasn't that fun?
Last edited on Saturday, June 26th, 2004 at 9:23 pm PST
yes you do need a new hammer it is a must i know from experience. when i first played with my impulse, i bought it with the equalizer bolt cause i thought it would work stock. when i got to teh feild, i could not get my gun over 240 fps. i turned my pressure to 190, still 240. i put my dwell very hight up, still 240 and my gun became unbearably loud. nomatter what i didi i just had to settle for 240. and i was getting bad efiecency. the reason is because there is not enough weight hitting the valve. your internals should never go below 1100 grains, with stock internals and the equalizer it is about 900. way to light. go out and buy a ND brass or SS hammer for 20 bucks and have a paintball tech install it (you could do it yourself but is its such a bit***ch its not even funny. in my opinion the most pain in the a*** this you can do by yourself to an impulse.)
not again mr. ikey, but i believe we are about to have an argument. first off, did you know all impulses act a little differently from one another? i have "installed" delrin bolts, including the eq bolt, in impulses many many many times and while some of them had to have new hammer, the majority (even though it was a slim majority) didn't need new hammers as long as they reset their dwell and input pressure correctly. now, impulses with the WAS equalizer board in them should have the lightest internals possible to allow for higher rates of fire, so the stock internals+ti bolt pin+delrin bolt are a must, unless you want to go titanium on the ram and hammer. also, install a new hammer isn't hard at all. there are three ways, at least, that you can go about doing it. the first, and the one i recomend the least, is to just get a vice, and try to screw your ram out of the hammer. that almost never works-but it does sometimes-and by doing it that way you run the rick of striping the hole in the ram for the allen wrench. the second way, which always works, but you need to have a stove with burners on it, is the easiest. first you take the hammer assembly out, remove all o-rings on the outside, remove the its cap, turn your stove's burner on to medium or high, pull the hammer so it is fully extended, put it over the flames for 30-180second, hole the hammer with an adjustible griping wrench (be carefull, it will be obviously very hot), and screw the ram out the back, then you take the ram out and (be carefull, it is hot too) let it cool, then apply some dow33 to the ram and it's o-ring, then stick it back into the hammer assembly, apply a small amount of red loctite to the ram's threads, then screw your new hammer onto it. the third way i suggest taking off your hammer is to do the same thing as the previous way, but to put the hammer in a pot of boiling water intsead of putting it over an open flame. it works just as well but takes more time, 1-30minutes to melt the loctite on the ram's threads. have you every fixed a broken solenoid ikey?
ok yes i have, that is a mother to do as well. but out of all the things to do to an impulse, i think that installing a new hammer or ram is one of the things at the top of the bit***ch list. well, i dunno about other bolts, but with stock internals and a equalizer bolts (the custom 5 inch version) , will not work very well at all. i messed with my dwell forever, i basically went through every setting. nothing. turned my pressure up and down. nothing worked. thats my experience.
to ikey, well, that just re-enforces something i always say when it comes to impulses, no two will act alike. so, yours needed a new hammer to get the velocity up, that still doesn't change the fact that most can get by w/o buying a new one.