A-5, LP kit, E-Grip,8 inch Lapco Bigshot, 12 inch JnJ Ceramic, Palmer's Stabilizer, DOP RVA, Madman Spring kit, DOP Bullet Drop, 3A 68/4500 nitro tank, polished internals, Aris Trigger job, GTA Double trigger dremeled into a blade, BSA 30mm red dot, macroline, gauges, Dye Rhino tank cover.
Quieter, Reduced recoild, better consistency.
Ugly, expensive, $120 + the cost of a secondary regulator.
First off, this thing does exactally what it says, lowers the operating pressure. I've got my gun running at aprox. 330 PSI, with no starving issuses. No shoot down, even when blasting away at 15 bps for extended periods. The accuracy is helped also, the gun has much less kick now, so when you're firing fast, there's less movment so you stay shooting right where you want to. The sound is also a lot quieter, which is very nice. I live in Wisconsin, and it's very cold out right now. I've been playing all winter, and breaking a ton of paint in the chamber because it gets too brittle in the cold and breaks when it's hit with 850 PSI. I've run about a case of paint through it, with much less breaks, althought there have been some. I played this morning with it and didn't break a single ball, and it was around 15* outside.
This kit has several pros, and almost no cons. It helps preformance by causing less breaks, better consistency, and less sounds. Only negative is the looks, which aren't horrible, but not great. I definantly think it was a worthy upgrade.
yeah, i am going to buy the low pressure kit and i needed some advice and u gave me the right advice thanks. and all the paintballs i have used are mostly chopping and they r marblizers so i hope this will reduce that . and make my nitrous last longer
PaintbalplayaA5: The LP kit will not help with balls breaking due to chopping. The bolt is going to hit with the same force. The LP kit helps reduce the amount of balls broken in the barrel. If they are chopping, here are some possible solutions: 1) Keeping your FPS below 290, 2) Oil your marker with the barrel off, or 3) Make sure the cyclone blade screw is not too tight, or it will make it difficult for the blade to turn.
Rey: I asked Jeep 98 Custom the same thing at the Tippmann forum. Here's his response:
"I saw that review too. I'm not sure what is wrong with
the persons gun, but mine has not had that problem.
I've easily shot 5000 times, althought probably half of
that is dry firing, and I have not yet experienced any
problems with the rear bolt/hammer. I have no clue
why he's having problems, but mine and my 2
friends LP kit have had no problems whatsoever." -Jeep 98 Custom
I've had this thing for a while now, and still no problem with the rear bolt breaking. I've shot well over 10,000 balls through it with my E-Grip, and it's holding up just fine. Neither of my 2 friends with the LP kit and E-Grip have had a problem wither, and they've used it just as much as me. That person must have some other issue causing the bolt to break. Overall I still am VERY pleased with my LP kit, and reccomend it to all A-5 users.
great review, thanks for the help, i am on the fence as to the low pressure kit becasue i do have the e-grip and i did go though the problem of breaking (better said rounding them off) bolts. tippmann sent me a hardened bolt and hammer pin it fixed the problem. you said that you have not had this problem, with 10,000 balls. my friend bought one of the first ones and it is doing the same thing that diver said after only about 3000 rounnds it is sutter firing. tippmann send him a new one and it has not broke in over 6000 rounds so maybe tippmann had fixed the problem. when did you buy yours? maybe it was just a run of bad ones.please let me know what you think. so that maybe i can buy it and see how it goes. i have learned that if you change out the hammer pin of the e-grip the second it starts to mushroom that the bolt does not round over hopfully this is true with the LPS bolt.
the bolt is lighter then the one on the 98 by a lot so when the bolt hits a ball it does not seem to chop it instead it just stops the bolt. on my friends it has stopped the breaks a lot all you do is recock and cycle the cyclone with the push bar thingy. that is why i want the LPS. my a-5 is one of the first ones made and they did not have the cyclone right. tippmann has sent me new sprokets, new bottom plate marked A, and new cross arm, and a new piston and drive arm and it still does not work right. i guess that is the problem with buying the first of any product.
Last edited on Wednesday, March 17th, 2004 at 5:52 pm PST
I got one of the first ones, I pre-ordered it when it first popped up online on January 1st, and had it 3 days aftert Tippmann FINALLY released it. Like I said, I've had no problems whatsoever. I'm beginning to wonder if it might be because of some of the things I've done to my A-5 that might affectthat area, such as Maddman springs, RVA, or polished internals. Or maybe myself and friends just got lucky?
I just learned something that might be the cause of some peoples rear bolt to wear out, apperantly Tippmann released a batch of E-Grips in which the rod the trips the sear was to short, which was why some people (like myself) experienced their E-Grips not working after a few shots because the pin wasn't falling all the way down. These shorter ones can damage your sear and rear bolt. I used to have the problem all the time, but shortly after I got my LP kit, the wires broke on my E-Grip and I sent it to Tippmann and they sent me back a brand new one. I've yet to have that problem, and I haven't had any problems with my LP kits rear bolt wearing either. So I beleive the true cause of the LP kits bolt wearing down is not the LP kit, but the E-Grips piston. Those of you having troubles with your LP rear bolts might want to look into that.
Anyone know what needs to be done to the reponse trigger fittings, as in the hoses and valves, when the low pressure kit is put in. I was told by a pro shop that all of the fittings would need to be enlarged and the lowest pressure that I would be able to get is around 500 psi with the kit.