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caplucky Friday, March 12th, 2004
Period of
Product Use:
2 years
More than 5 years
Products Used:
Toy Cap Guns (Just slightly more accurate)
Marker Setup: Icon-E (Black)
32 Degrees Expansion Chamber 03 (Black)
Spudnuk'l Nylatron Bolt
Halo Frontman TSA (Clear)
J&J Ceramic 14"
NW 8" Spoon Drop Foward
20oz CO2
Macro Line (Black)
A nice spot on the wall for display.
Every upgrade they make, especially the fore grip.
Strengths: If you drop it 30ft out of a tree it doesn't break.
Weaknesses: Not very accurate, very hard trigger pull, balls jam in breach, was expensive
Review: O.K. where to begin, I bought this gun around 1988 for a whopping $129+tax and some Splatmaster paintballs in those plastic tubes you see at stock games for $16/100rds. This was my first excursion into paintball, my buddy bought the Spatmaster for $99 since he didn't believe he needed the Rapides blazing firepower. We quickly read the instructions and marveled at these high tech cutting edge paint guns, after timidly charging the 12gram co2 cartridge (the 12gram screwed in the bottom of the handle and was pierced by the valve chamber, screwing it in sometimes didn't work to well because it took a few good turns before it was pierced and could leak out a good amount of co2 before you cranked it all the way, they had a quick changer that worked in only a few turns which was a big improvement) we took some practice shots at a nearby tree. The guns seemed to shoot hard to us, and were more accurate than we thought they'd be (we had never shot a paint ball gun before this so excuse our new found wonder at this opening statement) after shooting through a 12gram which gave an average of 25 quality shots, we saw how some of balls would slice and arc off target. The magazine would hold 20rds in 4 chambers which had to be manually rotated to keep feeding, the drawback to this was sometimes a ball would get stuck in the bottom and not come out making you dry fire because you couldn't see if a ball loaded or not. Now the trigger pull on the Rapide is very hard, after all it is truly a double action. You have to physically force the new ball into the chamber with the bolt by using your trigger finger. Now this will lead to the gun shaking and throw off your shot once and awhile, which leads to why the fore grip was a must ( the fore grip could be mounted at 3 positions 90, 45, and 30 degrees) to give you a accurate shot. I did make some very nice snapshots and long ball shots with this over the years but there were many, many ball jams, breaks,or wide shots. Back in the day there was a paintball which should not be named, California Magnum, these balls came out and were packaged and promoted very well. Unfortunately that's all the effort put into them, these balls were cheap 200rds@$15. The majority of them were more oblong then spherical and more rubbery than brittle, and Splatmasters did not like them at all. They constantly jammed in the actions and broke in the gun more then on the target. This led me to upgrade my Rapide to over come this fall back. I put on the longer barrel extension which seemed to be easier to load the balls in (probably not but for $20 I hoped it did) it also had a cool looking muzzle brake and site on it, then I got the rear stock and fore grip, which made the gun more comfortable and gave a nice steady shot, then the massive 40 twist feeder. I almost bought the 7oz co2 tank bottom line but it was around $160, TASO made one I believe it was called the alligator which also came with a feeder adapter that slide on over the standard feed slot and custom brass barrels. I was going to upgrade the Rapide to its fullest but during a game while adding a new 12gram the gun started a slow leak in the handle, nothing much but it was leaking. So after the game I took the screwdriver to my Rapide to see what was leaking. Everything looked fine, no broken or split seals all parts looked unbroken and I checked for tightness. Well I cleaned it all up and put it back together and put in a fresh 12gram an d woosh, it now leaked like crazy. Snow started blowing out everywhere and the 12gram bleed itself dry in moments. Took it apart again after it thawed out checked everything again and found nothing. My gun was officially dead, my buddy took it apart and couldn't find anything wrong either. On the verge of my massive expensive upgrade to my Rapide my gun refused to be helped, thankfully the Sheridan KP3 was on special for $199 so instead of making a great mistake I bought one of the most accurate markers ever (although I almost bought a Brass Eagle Jaguar for the same price) and realized what real paintball marker was. Overall this gun is a very poor design, and if you take it apart it will never work again, but it served it's purpose and started me and my friends on the paintball journey. So all you players that complain about Brass Eagle markers being crap, a Brass Eagle marker would have ruled on the Splatmaster field.
Conclusion: I give this "marker" a 4 just because of the pure sentimental value it has with me, and they were the first markers to make paintball mainstream. Otherwise never, ever take into battle with even as a back up, you have a better chance throwing the paint at your opponent (I seen that done before too)
4 out of 10

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