The Requested Trigger Job Info

[TLplus84]

WASSUp hehe yeah I finally found the time to post up all the stuff that I did to my trigger, by popular demand :D

Disclaimer: What you do is not my responsibility. Sorry i have to post this up cuz there are idiots out there..

Materials needed:
1 Hammer
1 nail
2 part epoxy
wooden dowel or metal dowel(music wire)
Dremel Tool
sandpaper
Chrome polish or Mother's mag polish
polishing bit for Dremel, or a cloth to apply/buff polish


1. Shortening trigger pull
first, take the trigger pin out of your trigger frame with a nail and hammer. make sure that the grooved sides are coming out first, or the frame will be damaged. Then, you take a piece of wire or wodden dowel if you don't have access to a metal one that will fit comfortably inside the spring. Cut roughly 9 mm of it off, and place it in your trigger spring. Reassemble the trigger, and make sure that the bolt will fire. Then, hook your air up and make sure it will fire every time. It may fire when not gassed up, but it may not fire when it is because when it is gassed up, the mechanics move a lot quicker. Trim the dowel with sandpaper accordingly till you are satisfied.

2. Lightening trigger pull
Take your trigger spring and cut maybe 1 1/2 coils off of it. OR if you are not comfortable with cutting your trigger spring, go to a local hardware store and buy a spring that is the same size, but is lighter(in recoil). IF you do decide to cut the spring, after you do, stretch the spring just a little bit, and put the spring back in with the side you just cut facing down.

3. Shortening Trigger return.
If you look at your trigger from the top view, you will see that there is a tab there to cover the trigger spring. The top part of that touches the main gun body. Take two part epoxy and put a drop on the trigger. Wait for it to dry, and afterwards attach the trigger frame to your gun. If it fires, then leave it. If it doesn't, sand a little down and try again.

This is the basic trigger job. In like 2 minutes, i'm going to go into the more advanced stuff, but i decided to post this one up first for the newbies that wanted a basic trigger job. THe next section will be polishing.

[TLplus84]

read disclaimer above please becasue this part is a little risky.

4. Polishing sear
Take your Dremel tool and a med grit sanding bit, or a med grit sandpaper and go over the top of the sear. That is the part that sticks out of your trigger frame.(the silver piece for those who don't know what a sear is :D) Stop when there is a relative shine it. THEN, take a fine grit sanding bit or fine grit sandpaper and go over the sear again. After you are done, you should have a relative shine. Then, take the polish and go over the part you sanded with the polish and the applicator till there is a haze on the sear. let it dry, then buff off. Your sear should now be ALOT smoother. Also, you only need to polish the top half part of the sear. The bottom half does not touch the striker. By the top half, i mean that when you look at the sear, it has an angle in it. That bottom part, which is kinda in your trigger frame, does not need to be polished. Also, this is any option, but you can polish the sides of the sear too.

5. beveling the sear
If you look at the sear, the sides are at a 90* angle. REMEMBER for the next step, Moderation is the key. YOu don't want to overdo it, or it will DECREASE performance. Take your dremel tool and a grinding bit or a rough grit sandpaper and go over the long sides of the sear at a 45* angle. Do it so that it is noticable,but not too much. Also, if you want to, VERY VERY VERY slowly round off the short "wall" of the sear. You will want to do it only a VERY little bit.TOO much will ruin your sear, and you will have to get a new sear. It will make your gun into a paint blender, goin full auto every time you gas it up. If you do not feel comfortable doing this, don't do it. Beveling your sear will make your trigger pull feel cleaner and crisper.
Rounding your sear (short sid) will make the pull shorter, but if done wrong, the product is disasterous, so use caution.

6. Polishing the striker
IF you look at your striker, there is black anodizing on it. The part you want to polish is the part where it "dips" in. That is the part where the striker makes contact with teh striker. Take a fine grit sanding bit and your dremel tool, or just a fine grit sandpaper, and go over that strip until the metal shows cleanly. Then, take a REALLY fine grit sandpaper and go over it again. Take your polish and applicator and apply polish to that area. After, buff off.
There is an extra part, although i will warn you that if you do this wrong, you will need a new striker. If you look at your striker, The lip that is furthest from the Oring is where the sear goes up against in the cocked position. If you bevel that part VERY slightly, it will shorten trigger pull. If you take off too much, it will have the same effects as rounding the sear too much.

That is basically what i did to my trigger so far. Actually, there is one little thing, but that's a secret :D :D :P maybe i'll tell you a little later on..but i'm getting tired of typing. hehe hope this helped you guys

[TLplus84]

don't pad the sear. That's really bad. it will degrade the perfomance. If you want to, get this spray that you use for subwoofers in car audio, it deadens ring....i forgot wat it was called but most car audio places will carry it. The scratches on y our bolt, don't worry about them..i have them too, but they don't affect performance in any way.

[A damn fool]

i know, but its really loud, thatsh the only thing u can here on my gun, so i was thinking if i polished it, it wouldnt make that noise ne more. Just an idea, ithik ill try it on the stock bolt, then if it wors, do it to my cyclone one.

[OMEGAX4]

Wonderful, just wonderful. I did that trigger mod to my piranha and now i shaved off about 2-3 mm off the original pull.

PIRANHA OWNERS: another simply way to do this mod is to find something small and thin to wedge between the frame and the sear release lever. Makd it so the sear release does not fully return to its original position. If it dosent cock you over did it.

You can also increase the diameter of the pin the sear rests on. Thats the little pin that is pretty much the sear release lever. Its all one piece. I just rolled up a strip of cardboard and super glued it on the pin.

-OMEGAX4

[mikek2111987]

If anyone wants info on how to do a very simple and effective trigger job, click here (http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=53572&highlight=simple).
Bassicly the same as TLplus84's. With really crappy pics though.

[gary_william]

I used a black zip tie and wrapped it to the trigger guard. I pulled the trigger and when the marker fired I tightened the zip tie (behind the trigger, between the trigger and the hand grip). I then released the trigger and when the sear reset itself I toed another zip tie to the trigger guard, but this time in front of the trigger. This reduced my trigger travel to only the distance required to make the trigger activate and reset. I also used black tape to hold the zip ties in place. It works great, is non permanent, cheap, and easily removeable. No opening of the gun required, and your friends won't know you did it until you light their arses up with it.

[madtomatoes]

Hey TLplus will these mods work on a Spyder AMG LCD it still has the stock trigger frame, just making sure so i dont f*** up my gun:D

[SonixShooter357]

There are the 2 tabs on a spyder mech frame that are the trigger and the sear tabs. they touch every time you fire, which is what pivots the sear. If you dremel both those down, you can make your trigger able to have front slack if it is too tight, then eliminate the front slack with one of the other mods.

[Paintballhitman]

Here all you need is two cable wall tacks that are 1/2 inch wall tacks hot glue and a cutting tool that can cut nails Remove the nails from one of the wall tack flip the one with out nails to the flat side and put it behind the trigger on the bottem where the frame and the corner of the gun meet heres a pick http://img71.exs.cx/img71/8915/PA280029.jpg
Then apply glue and your done It works well went from 4bps to 11 so it does work

[VL ORION]

does this affect the safety at all

[lawace]

There is a pretty good tutorial for spyder triggers here with good pictures:
http://acp-products.com/tutorial_mech.html

[Lmneozoo]

This morning i put the spring of a pen on the sear's pin and piece of copper wire in the triggers sping reducing the trigger pull by about 3mm and sofend the trigger pull by cutting 2 rings off the spring. These "mods" are the closest feel of an electric grip with a mechanical marker

[Evil_Empire]

I've never taken out the trigger pin/sear pins before as my gun is brand new...I'm having a lot of trouble taking them out as I am hammering as hard as possible on them and they dont even move...Is this normal? Thanks for the help.

[iconoclast]

What gun do you have? I found that on my metal frame, it was much harder to get the pins out than on a plastic frame.

Also, make sure you're hitting the pins from the correct side.

[Evil_Empire]

I have a spyder, and the frame is metal. And yes, I know I am hitting them out on the correct side. But if I keep on trying, will they eventually come out?

[iconoclast]

Yeah, it took a while for mine to come out. I guess just keep pounding at it. It took a while for me to get them back in too.

[Evil_Empire]

Did you somewhat scratch up the frame around the pin...because that is what is happening to me right now. And what did you use to get the pins out. Right now i'm using a flat ended nail and a hammer...im wondering if a mallet would be better...

[iconoclast]

I got some scratches on the frame, but nothing too deep.

As for tools, I used a small nail that fit the pin and a pretty small hammer, like ones for hanging pictures and such. I didn't want to smash up my new e-frame (I have a tendency to destroy stuff when I use a hammer).

[Evil_Empire]

Thanks a lot for the help, I appreciate it. And one last question, how long did it take you to complete everything?

[iconoclast]

Taking out the pins on my plastic mech frame didn't take too long, but it took some tinkering and modding (maybe an hour or so) to find the right size shim to make my trigger pull exactly like I wanted it to be. It also took some time finding the right tension trigger spring (I eventually just clipped off one coil on the stock spring). It paid off in the end though, since it gave me a pull which would trip the sear immediately with no slack. But then I got an e-frame:).

[Evil_Empire]

Alright heres an update:

Its been about a day now, no success. I've made sure I've been hammering the side without the splines or grooves. I've hammered hard and the trigger frame is elevetated as well so theres room for the pins to come out. I've manage to make many dents/marks on the trigger pin and it still wont buldge.

Are there any tricks, or anything I can use to make this sucker move?

Thanks

[Alpine]

Set the frame on concrete when you hammer it, like on a garage floor ... this will work much better than trying to do it on a table or a counter or something.

[John 15:13]

Will this trigger job work with a 98C?

[graciolly]

Im starting back, after a long break from LC, and this site is full of great info. Where is everyone though?

[Lenny17]

This probably belongs more in OT than here, but that's not the point.

It's been really quiet around here lately. I'm sure part of it has to do with the economy stinking, and I think that a large group of the usuals are also dealing with college and such, which takes away from precious paintball time.

[di$TOrTed]

This probably belongs more in OT than here, but that's not the point.

It's been really quiet around here lately. I'm sure part of it has to do with the economy stinking, and I think that a large group of the usuals are also dealing with college and such, which takes away from precious paintball time.

That and everyone thinking that PBNation is better than PBReview :dodgy:

[Ranana_kils]

Hi Corinna
I have missed you lots and am glad to see you
Hope all is going well

BH
Missy

ps thanks for the info

[Wolf1066]

Did a couple of trigger mods on my Spyder MR1 yesterday, took me only a couple of hours and a few simple tools.

I have no problem with the weight of the trigger pull or how far you have to pull it before it releases the bolt - it has absolutely no slack travel to take up, just a short amount of moderate resistance followed by a crisp break.

Then the trigger travels all the way back until the bottom of the two-finger trigger actually touches the grip frame, meaning you've moved your finger too far back and you have to release it a fair way before the trigger re-engages the sear for the next shot.

So the first thing I wanted to do was make a rear stop for the trigger so it travels back only just far enough to reliably release the bolt.

The other thing is: I don't like two-finger triggers.

It's a personal preference thing - I'm sure other people love them. I'm used to standard firearms and only using my index finger to fire.

The double trigger therefore means that my middle finger has nowhere to rest on the grip (as I am used to doing) so I've had to play with my middle finger extended forward, resting on the side of the trigger guard - effectively "giving the bird" to everyone to my right. Not particularly comfortable, either.

So the other thing I wanted to do was to cut the bottom section off the trigger so it was only long enough for my index finger, leaving room for my middle finger to curl around the grip as the gods and Samuel Colt intended.

I posted the details of how I did it - and what I used to do so - under the customisation section, if anyone's interested.

So now my trigger is - by my own standards - perfect. I can grip the stock in a natural position with my index finger curled around the trigger. A gentle squeeze is enough to fire the marker and there is very little rearward travel to achieve this.