ptflyer
02-06-2001, 03:25 PM
I posted this on another board.and I thought I should post this here..
Thought this would help to explain how to set up your spyder for LP and help you fix a studder problem....FROMG3PAINTBALL...(gotta give them props)they explain it so well...
A short, simple lesson in flow dynamics. Most playersout there will slap a combination of parts into their respective guns -limited only by their budgets. What they often wind up with is a poor performing piece of equipment. Through lack of experience or not wanting to admit they goofed up, they often have something akin to a slug afterspending a ton of money.
My advice is normally to buy a "done deal", an upgraded piece from a reputable source that specializes in performance Spyders. In a way I really hate to recommend this because I think it is very important that you learn to do these things yourself; because if you ever have a problem, then it should be much easier for you to determine it's source....
Ok, back to the lesson...trigger is pulled, main spring and rear adjuster tension determines how hard the striker hits the valve stem. So, the valve now opens. How far is usually limited by the length of the valve stem protruding out of the valve body. The time the valve
stays opens "dwell", is determined by the kenetic energy of the moving mass; weight of the stricker, bolt, etc.
So, if we need to propel a projectile(paintball), we need a given amount of force to accomplish this. The lower the pressure applied, the more volumn of gas is required to too slowly then the ball will never accellerate to speed. It's basically a matter of passing the volumn of gas as determined by it's pressure, as quickly as possible....the longer the dwell, the worse the shot to shot consistency becomes(usually always).
So, we need to keep the valve spring tension as stiff as possible but still allow the valve to remain open long enough to pass gas. Also, the longer the dwell, the lower the pressure being applied directly to the ball; since it's expanding as it enters a larger cavity - in this case, the path through the bolt and the "firing chamber". From a technical standpoint this still happens very quickly so it is usually not a concern but I have fired guns that I could pull the trigger faster than the gun can properly cycle at.....that's not good...
On blow-backs, such as the Spyder, we have another concern that doesn't complicate such guns as the AutoCocker. The Spyder requires a volumn of gas to pass through the valve body (AKA Valve) or around the valve stem in order to build pressure in the lower body to push the stricker and bolt to the rear in order to "cock" the gun, preparing it for the next cycle.
So, we have the dwell and pressure bit coming into play again. The weaker the main spring, the less pressure is required to cycle the gun. The Maddman valve spring set includes a valve spring that when allow the gun to properly cycle down below 100 psi.....No more burping full-auto that Low Pressure Spyders are know for.
Please remember this....Most players miss this point.....the idea is not to achieve the lowest possible operating pressure although most seem to think so. It's not something to brag about that you got your Spyder to shoot below 300 psi for bragging rights to your friends;that you turned your gun into a slug. The idea is to find the pressure, that in combination with the selected components, works the most efficiently.
Thought this would help to explain how to set up your spyder for LP and help you fix a studder problem....FROMG3PAINTBALL...(gotta give them props)they explain it so well...
A short, simple lesson in flow dynamics. Most playersout there will slap a combination of parts into their respective guns -limited only by their budgets. What they often wind up with is a poor performing piece of equipment. Through lack of experience or not wanting to admit they goofed up, they often have something akin to a slug afterspending a ton of money.
My advice is normally to buy a "done deal", an upgraded piece from a reputable source that specializes in performance Spyders. In a way I really hate to recommend this because I think it is very important that you learn to do these things yourself; because if you ever have a problem, then it should be much easier for you to determine it's source....
Ok, back to the lesson...trigger is pulled, main spring and rear adjuster tension determines how hard the striker hits the valve stem. So, the valve now opens. How far is usually limited by the length of the valve stem protruding out of the valve body. The time the valve
stays opens "dwell", is determined by the kenetic energy of the moving mass; weight of the stricker, bolt, etc.
So, if we need to propel a projectile(paintball), we need a given amount of force to accomplish this. The lower the pressure applied, the more volumn of gas is required to too slowly then the ball will never accellerate to speed. It's basically a matter of passing the volumn of gas as determined by it's pressure, as quickly as possible....the longer the dwell, the worse the shot to shot consistency becomes(usually always).
So, we need to keep the valve spring tension as stiff as possible but still allow the valve to remain open long enough to pass gas. Also, the longer the dwell, the lower the pressure being applied directly to the ball; since it's expanding as it enters a larger cavity - in this case, the path through the bolt and the "firing chamber". From a technical standpoint this still happens very quickly so it is usually not a concern but I have fired guns that I could pull the trigger faster than the gun can properly cycle at.....that's not good...
On blow-backs, such as the Spyder, we have another concern that doesn't complicate such guns as the AutoCocker. The Spyder requires a volumn of gas to pass through the valve body (AKA Valve) or around the valve stem in order to build pressure in the lower body to push the stricker and bolt to the rear in order to "cock" the gun, preparing it for the next cycle.
So, we have the dwell and pressure bit coming into play again. The weaker the main spring, the less pressure is required to cycle the gun. The Maddman valve spring set includes a valve spring that when allow the gun to properly cycle down below 100 psi.....No more burping full-auto that Low Pressure Spyders are know for.
Please remember this....Most players miss this point.....the idea is not to achieve the lowest possible operating pressure although most seem to think so. It's not something to brag about that you got your Spyder to shoot below 300 psi for bragging rights to your friends;that you turned your gun into a slug. The idea is to find the pressure, that in combination with the selected components, works the most efficiently.