Stingray Trigger Job

[MP879]

does anybody know if theres a way to either shorten the trigger pul or at least lighten it cause the stingray II trigger is REALLY hard to pull.

[TLplus84]

try STING they should have some mods

[MP879]

I did they just said like cutting the trigger frame out and adding a double trigger since not many if any make a new spring. Is there a cheap(by cheap I mean inexpensive not crappy) kinda universal spring or somethin I can add?

[Phaelon Veritas]

ok here is a short piece on how to do a trigger job on your stingray II I had an old one I messed with and it is very easy to do in the stingray the trigger assembly functions much the same as a spyder or pirahna except the pieces are way too bulky BUT don't even think of try to lighten them it will only make things worse they are bulky for a reason... but take your trigger frame off and the first think you notice is the big marr mark on the sear wear it is indetent on the see saw type piece take some light sand paper and sand this divot smooth again and continue lightly sanding the rest of the sear after a moderate shine is present on the sear buff it with a metal polish until it gleams and then seal it with a good car wax or something similar rinse out the entire grip frame with water to remove any metal flakes and or dust that is inside and re-oil all the trigger pins etc. in the trigger frame housing
next take you polishing compound and polish the livin heck out of the spot on the gun which comes in contact with the trigger's sear. DO NOT SAND THIS PART AT ALL!!!!!!!!! re oil
the sear and the stirker's face put the gun back together and test it out it works alot smoother and lighter unfortunately because of the stingrays design anyone who hs fired one will tell you the kick pretty good and this is because of the violent nature of the internals of the singray which gives good reason why it never stops working it was made to work hard and long and the parts need to have some considerable girth but the draw back is that it will always have a considerable trigger pull, although it can be lessened if you wish to keep a good trigger pull this mod will be necessary every couple months I would not recommend try to futz with the trigger assembly to shorten or lighten the trigger pull because once again this gun has a violent action and any attempt to modify it's inner working may weaken and or set the gun into a state of disrepair lets face it plastic is not an easy thing to modify with any type of quality workmanship with a dremel tool and a file...

[_Law]

Here's how I did my trigger job:
Remove the sear. Drill a #36(7/64") hole through the sear plate. Drill a 1/4" hole though the bottom of the trigger guard, directly under the hole you just drilled in the sear plate. Tap the hole though the sear plate with a 6-32 tap. Screw in a 6-32 set-screw from the bottom until the end of the screw just barely protrudes through the sear plate. Now replace the sear, reassemble the gun, and cock it. Screw in the set-screw until the hammer trips, and then back out the screw 3 full turns. This will pre-load the sear, shortening the heavy part of the trigger pull.
Now you may want to limit the forward movement of the trigger. Here's what I did:
Remove the trigger. drill a #36(7/64") hole through the grip assembly. The bit should pass through the top left of the "P" in "push fire" and through the top right of the "E" in "push safe". Now tap the holes for 6-32. Sand off the bottom corner of the part of the trigger that catches the safety(see the picture), and screw in a 6-32 x 2" roundhead machine screw.

before: |_____

after: \_____


Now go outside and gas up the gun and fire a few test shots, adjusting the pre-load screw until it feels right. **IMPORTANT** Use 12 grams, and only load one paintball into the breech BY HAND at a time. Should you overtighten the pre-load screw, the gun will go full auto, chopping balls and wasting gas.