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View Full Version : valve screws are not going in my gun Help?


munster7
12-02-2002, 06:21 PM
im having a little problem i just got my tippmann 98 custom and i took it apart to get familier with and i accidently took out the valve bolts which i did not need to take out and when i put my gun together 1 of the screws wont screw in becuase there is this red hard stuff blocking the threads. please help. the screws went all the way in before i took it apart. anyone with another custom help me or anybod whos has info. also wat does a regulator do and a quick disconnect. Thanksim having a little problem i just got my tippmann 98 custom and i took it apart to get familier with and i accidently took out the valve bolts which i did not need to take out and when i put my gun together 1 of the screws wont screw in becuase there is this red hard stuff blocking the threads. please help. the screws went all the way in before i took it apart. anyone with another custom help me or anybod whos has info. also wat does a regulator do and a quick disconnect. Thanks

tripnotemple
12-02-2002, 06:47 PM
I'm not sure where you pulled the screw out of, but the stuff on it is loctite. You can pick it off, or rub it off in hot water. you'll need to give a little more info if you still can't get the screw in as to where you specifically pulled it out of.

the regulator keeps a set pressure amount going into the gun, not matter how inconsistent your air source may be. A regulator like the palmer stabilizer can also filter out liquid when running co2.

a quick disconnect if I'm not mistaken is just a shut off valve, to keep any more gas from going into the gun to make tank removal easier.

Turambar
12-02-2002, 08:35 PM
Don't worry, it's just red loctite (as trip said). Just get it out of there, put some more on the end of the screw and screw it back in. Make sure you don't do it too tight, because those threads in the valve will strip easily. I know because I had to replace my valve because of that.

tonysk83
12-03-2002, 11:55 AM
stick a lighter in there for a minute or two, then try to screw it in, it should go in without a prob, if it wont screw in even with teh lighter in there for a few minutes you probably striped the threads, thats sucks big time, i did it with my tippy no fun:(

munster7
12-03-2002, 03:28 PM
thanks ill try all the stuff u said but i wont try the lighter thing cause my valves made outa plastic and i dont wanna melt it but ill try sticking a hot piece of metal stick or something in there. :) i was wondering also how much a good regulator costs and a good exp. chamber to at least like a 2 stage.

I have seen a really cool 6 stage one from ACI too.

i am also looking to upgrade my stock berral. iv heard AAs, lapcos, and the night stick and terminator for 32 degrees are also good.

please tell me wich one of these is good

xavier678
12-03-2002, 03:35 PM
heh tony, i stipped the valve in a week of getting my tippy. Sucks.

munster, if you get an alan key that goes in there, you can stick that in there and heat it and it should get it out, or jsut pick it out.

as for the reg, palmers stabilizer, 80-90 and an exp chamber is about 20-40. get the reg if you have money.

AA's really good, teardrop, J&J ceramic, cp one piece. theres tons of them and they arent that different...

Team Tippmann12
12-03-2002, 06:15 PM
Nice job man, these parts are not to be pulled out unless by the maker or any PROFESIONAL! the end conclusion, your ****ed buddy!:pissed:

xavier678
12-03-2002, 07:50 PM
what? to install a lp kit, rt, or maby others you need to remove the powertube. there is nothing wrong with it. From what it sounds like, you just need to clean the valve threads out, then you should be good.
You arent '****ed buddy', even if the valve is stripped, just call up tippmann and have them send you another valve, assuming its under warranty.

Turambar
12-03-2002, 08:17 PM
Originally posted by Team Tippmann12
Nice job man, these parts are not to be pulled out unless by the maker or any PROFESIONAL! the end conclusion, your ****ed buddy!:pissed:

Nonononono, he didn't take his valve apart. That would be bad. He's just saying he took the valve/powertube assembly out of the marker.

Oh and Munster, it's the powertube that is plastic..the valve is aluminum (I think...or some other metal).

As for barrels, anything by Smart Parts is good. The AA, Teardrop, Progressive. J&J Ceramic is a great barrel. Armson Stealth.

munster7
12-04-2002, 04:52 PM
:) ok thanx peops i fixed my gun and i probly wont take the valve screws out again but all i did was heat up the valve screew really hot and screwed it in. i heated it up to melt the loctite that was blocking the threads. i appreciate ur advice.


ive been reading on the armson stealth looks like a rad berral with being internaly rifled and stuff but i head that if a ball breaks in it ur f--ked cause it gets stuck in the groov aaaaand there hard to sqeegee. also if u have AA, Teardrop, JJ ceramic, or 32* nyte stick or terminator on ur 98 custom the please repley i want to know how these shoot on a TIPPMANN no spyders or nuthin just 98 Customs and models.

xavier678
12-04-2002, 05:08 PM
J&J ceramic is a very good barrel for the price, i use it adapted from a spyder threaded J&J and it still works incredibly well. good luck

Turambar
12-04-2002, 07:47 PM
Again I have to agree with xavier. I have a 14" J&J and I love it. It performs great and is even a great self cleaner after breaks.

Also the Stealth..Haze has one, I am yet to play with it, but target shooting it is really a great barrel. As for breaks, I don't know about that. You could talk to Haze and see what he says.

-=ReD-hAzE=-
12-04-2002, 10:14 PM
yes... the stealth is a sweet barrel... but its a biznatch to clean... warm water does the job best...

The Mafia
12-05-2002, 12:08 AM
Just for your info, if you ever need to replace those screws they are 10-32 X 1/4 button head screws. A good hardware store should have them.

tonysk83
12-05-2002, 11:57 AM
Originally posted by munster7
:) ok thanx peops i fixed my gun and i probly wont take the valve screws out again but all i did was heat up the valve screew really hot and screwed it in. i heated it up to melt the loctite that was blocking the threads. i appreciate ur advice.


thank you, thank you my idea worked:D, also a good cheap barrel is the lapco bigshot, ill even go on and say its better then a jj 2 piece, or a dye boomstick

baseballaddict23
12-05-2002, 03:33 PM
i have a 14" Smart Parts All American....i love it. Its incredibly accurate, in fact I often use my model 98 over my cocker simply because it is so much more accurate (not to mention i can fire faster with the 98). Yeah....so I would definetely say an All American is a good choice.

xavier678
12-05-2002, 03:37 PM
Originally posted by baseballaddict23
i have a 14" Smart Parts All American....i love it. Its incredibly accurate, in fact I often use my model 98 over my cocker simply because it is so much more accurate (not to mention i can fire faster with the 98). Yeah....so I would definetely say an All American is a good choice.

Umm, before i believe this you are going to have to answer a question. How exactly do you put it on your 98 and/or cocker?

baseballaddict23
12-05-2002, 03:59 PM
i dont, i use the all american on my model 98, the cocker just has the stock barrel

xavier678
12-05-2002, 07:48 PM
ohhh, sorry man.