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View Full Version : How To Cut and Carve Your Tippmann For Dummies!


Chris Devers
02-13-2003, 08:47 PM
Okay, I got bored over a long time of no paintball. I read up a lot on "lightened" markers and decided the M98 (a relatively heavy marker) would be a good choice to start on. Here is an explanation of how to.

DISCLAIMER: Anything you do to your marker is your decision. I am not responisble for your errors. Continue at you own risk!

What you will need: Shop Goggles, Bench Grinder and Dremel tool with cutting blades and a metal sanding tool, fine grit sandpaper, leather gloves(metal will get hot and slivers can get in your hands), and last but not least a clean workspace.

Step #1: Completely disassemble your marker.

Step #2 Open up the halves and look.Notice the areas at A- below the barrel threads and below the rear cap B- The rear sight and C-the sides of the bottom of the grip.
All of these areas are solid metal with no real use. (NOTE: Do not follow through on the top site if you use a flatline!).

Step #3 This is a little tricky. Mark your areas where you will cut. Make sure you do NOT cut into the screw threads on the site or and other threads. Leave at least one CM of metal between your cut line and internals/threads. You can make a design or cut a clean smooth cut. It is up to you and depends a lot on what equipment you have. Put your screws back in the marker halves and your ready to cut!

Step #4 Start out carefully. Turn on your bench grinder and slowly begin to grind of thin layers of paint and metal. Watch your marks because you can easily grind out too much when you get close to your line STOP! You probably need that extra metal when you smooth it out.

Before I go on let me give you some advice on your cuts.

Grip Frame: Make a smooth cut around the whole base. Be careful not to get any nicks on the ASA holes.

Rear Site: This is a lot of bulk metal. Take breaks in between grinding so the metal does not get so hot and warp or burn you.

Below Rear Cap and Barrel Treads: Just be careful!

Okay here we go!

Step #5 : Break out the Dremel and the metal sanding tool. Take out any nicks with its till it is generally smooth. Now, get a rough grit barrel sander for your dremel. Use it to smooth it out a little more. Then, use a light grit barrel sander to smooth it out more.

Okay! Hopefully now you have what is a lighter body. If you mess it up your gonna have to get new reciever halves. Make sure your EXTREMELY careful !
You may want to take this opportunity to paint your halves. The finished cut areas will be a very shiny silver color. If you decide to do so there is a stickied thread on it. After you have decided. Clean your halves with water and thouroughly dry them and apply a light coat of oil. Reassemble and enjoy!

This takes off 3-4oz of extra weight!

pbfan4life
02-15-2003, 10:41 AM
What would be the reason to carve your gun. Just yo make it lighter? Or so you can fit upgrades on it too?

flyguy89
02-15-2003, 12:32 PM
If you have the original model 98, then you'll need to do some carving for pretty much any upgrade (besides a barrel or dropforward or something), but other then that, on the 98- the only reason I can see to carve it is to take off weight.

Chris Devers
02-15-2003, 09:31 PM
It makes the gun look pretty cool. It also lightens it quite a bit. I personally I did it for better speedball use. You can look down the baller a lot better without the rear site.

don
02-17-2003, 10:44 AM
can you post some picks so i can see what you did?

Chris Devers
02-17-2003, 05:17 PM
No digital camera!

Sorry guys!

Hopefully I will get pics up around March!

pbfan4life
02-21-2003, 04:14 PM
i have a custom 98 so i dont think i will have to do any carving!!! i think....

E r y k
02-21-2003, 04:17 PM
its okay, i like how my tippmann looks and 3 or 4 oz wont make a difference.

nzzzme
02-21-2003, 04:20 PM
then dont do it! duh!