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TLplus84
02-15-2001, 01:18 PM
LOL i know everyone has been dieing for this right? I have to tell you this is a very very very small mod, but it does reduce the pull. Here it is:

WHen you pull the trigger, the sear gets pivoted, releases he striker, adn the sear comes back down and rests on a pin. If you put a sleeve on that pin, the sear is seated lower, thus it will take less trigger movement to release the striker. If your gun won't cock, use a thinner sleeve. I've also tried sponge, and taht seems to work ok too. Just get something underneath that sear, something small, and it will seat the sear lower. If it doesn't cock, remember take the item(sponge, sleeve, cloth) and get something thinner..its confusing but that's the best i could explain it.

TLplus84
02-16-2001, 12:02 PM
don't take out the safety...it's illegal at most fields to not have a safety on your gun. ALso, it won't shorten the pull if you take out hte safty. that's jsut a myth..my friend tried it and all it did was add another hole for dirt and dust to get in. hey i sed i'd post it and i did right~? :D

bran
04-26-2001, 04:45 AM
Heres an idea. I used the end of a large diameter ball point pen as a sleve (the part where the ink is in. just cut about an inch off the top where there's no ink)
then to adjust the hight I rolled some electric tape around the sleve. it worked great for me and it was very easy to adjust

oh and just incase anyone is wondering the pen i used was a sanford uniball gell grip pen

mikek2111987
06-24-2001, 07:34 AM
some guy did that at pbdojo, i followed his ics but did what TLplus84 said to http://forums.paintballdojo.com/showthread.php?s=6d35779717e01f1a1d2b0b453910422d&threadid=97725&perpage=35&pagenumber=2
i dont know y but for me the pics dont work anymore

high adjucator
09-02-2001, 03:47 PM
haha u weaklings!!! you think that is good try this!!!!!!

(dont do both it once i dont think it will work!)


alright this will get long and read the whole thing before performing!!!
(this cannot mess up your gun and if it does you did somth9ing EXTREMELY WRONG)
ok first you get a rubber band like that on braces and some tape (lots of it your going to be experimenting with the amounts)
anyways you put about 3 rolls of tape (cut the tape in thirds first so it wont get caught on the receiver halves) around EVERY PIN except the front trigger pin and the sear retainer pin(the one that holds the sear in place) ok now you put about 5 more rolls on the back trigger pin and put about 9 on the pin above where the trigger catches the sear and about 10 below it. (dont put in the rubber band yet) now put the halves back together. see if it cocks, if not take one roll of the pin below the sear plate. now take it apart again. replace the sear spring with the rubber band but before you do that, put literally 20 rolls around where the rubber band holds onto the pin (unless you have an rt which limits it to about 12) now put everything back together and see if it cocks.
if it doesn’t find out what’s wrong. ok here’s the OPTIONAL part
cut one coil off your trigger return spring (on the custom)

ok on the regular you can do this but not to such an effect
when you cock the gun the trigger should be pushed forwards (that’s the trick of this mod) good luck not wasting paint oh yeah if you can hold the trigger in "the sweet spot" then you can go full auto!!!

-high adjucator
-brandon anders (call me master or mud I don’t care for either :D)

;) :love: :love:

mikek2111987
06-27-2002, 08:26 PM
If anyone wants info on how to do a very simple and effective trigger job, click here (http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=53572&highlight=simple).

Epoxy is a glue, a very strong one. A trigger block is a front or back block on your trigger frame, which will make your trigger pull shorter. So you wont need one. And to get the sleeve over the pin, just pop the pin out GROOVES FIRST, and hold the sleeve in place then put it back in GROOVES LAST.

Relentless
06-22-2003, 11:13 AM
It did on my 98c...

i had already moded it to what i thought was the end, but was wrong...

the only 2 mods i am yet to try are the magnetic mod, and the braces elastic mod (neeeeed to find some1 with braces!!!)

bobby four
06-22-2003, 07:17 PM
macroline works well, just get some needle nose pliers and hold it in place while replacing the pin

http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1321978

is a thread that tells you how to do decent trigger mod

Relentless
06-27-2003, 05:00 PM
i used a pen spring as a sleeve... perfect for my 98c...

98c's trigger is alot easier to mod cuz the easy access, heh

trains are bad
10-16-2003, 01:45 PM
The spring out of a bic clickster mechanical pencil makes the perfect front trigger spring for the 98 custom.

travsstuff
01-08-2004, 07:06 AM
Braces rubber bands work great! Thanks! They break sometimes though, so you gotta replace em'.

tippmannisok
02-20-2004, 02:59 PM
yo i just tried this like an hour ago... it works great thanks bro!!:)

paintballnsc112
02-26-2004, 11:22 AM
Originally posted by TLplus84
don't take out the safety...it's illegal at most fields to not have a safety on your gun.

thats not true. alot of frames dont even have safetys. like the eclipse mech. blade for cockers. They do require a barrel plug or bag though.

and taking out the safety doesnt mater. if u do this mod the safety wont work unless u sand down part of it.

IdiotWithAFlash
04-08-2004, 04:26 PM
how would u clean a barrel bag if u do shoot it?

travsstuff
04-08-2004, 05:51 PM
dude what are you takin about, stick it in the washer, duh

Mitch_001
06-29-2004, 11:52 AM
two words DuckTape place layers on the sear

mangyan
08-26-2004, 10:19 AM
here's what i did with my TL+
some of you might not like it coz it involves drilling you frame
but hey,it's your gun right,get drill bit a bit smaller than 3/16
drill the hole out and put in a 3/16 roll pin you may have to grind the pin for exact length,then drill another hole whre the trigger spring is,tap it 8-32,get an 8/32 screw cut it at 7/16 length,screw it in from the bottom(trigger housing)you may have to grind the screw a bit coz not all guns are the same,and you know what,the head of the screw will work as trigger stop
now you cut your triggeer pull by 50%

note:if the trigger doesn't release the sear,you unscrew it a bit until it release

Paintballhitman
11-03-2004, 02:49 AM
Here it is two 1/2 inch cable wall tacks and some hot glue later put it side by side with my freinds electro set at 10 bps
and it was shooting right with it so it seems to mork great relpy if you like it

http://img71.exs.cx/img71/8915/PA280029.jpg

Algernon
04-12-2005, 07:09 PM
remove the spring on your trigger shoe. really, you don't need spring on your trigger shoe, as the sear is what you really pull and trip. on certian markers you can swap out a much lighter sear spring, like the tippmann 98.

i don't know if it is the light drive spring, but the 98 will allow you to swap out lighter sear springs. there shouldn't be any problems with the sear not catching hammer. my 98's trigger is lighter than my swing trigger autococker. :laugh:

TLplus84
05-06-2005, 12:18 PM
It's been 4 years, and this thread is still stickied..woah.:eek:

Evil_Empire
08-01-2006, 07:51 AM
I've never taken out the trigger pin/sear pins before as my gun is brand new...I'm having a lot of trouble taking them out as I am hammering as hard as possible on them and they dont even move...Is this normal?

mangyan
08-02-2006, 05:28 AM
those pins will only come out one way,make you are hammering it the right way,one side of the pin will have some spline on it,should be visible if you look close,hammer it from the side that don't have spline
hope this help

Evil_Empire
08-02-2006, 03:28 PM
Alright heres an update:

Its been about a day now, no success. I've made sure I've been hammering the side without the splines or grooves. I've hammered hard and the trigger frame is elevetated as well so theres room for the pins to come out. I've manage to make many dents/marks on the trigger pin and it still wont buldge.

Are there any tricks, or anything I can use to make this sucker move?

Thanks

Freefire
10-19-2006, 08:04 PM
if you want a quick way to make your marker full auto mechanically, just put a pin in the oval slot on the trigger sear to keep it from moving back and forth. cut the pin to 1/4" length and make sure it is 1/8" in diameter or less. This will keep the sear from moving off of the trigger when it is pulled and keeps the sear from engaging the bolt until the trigger is released. This again will give you full auto but to return to semi auto you will have to take the gun back apart and remove the pin. If you want another way just go to Tippmann parts.com and order another trigger sear the one that comes with the egrip. It doesn't have an oval slot it only has a straight pin hole. This will make the unit fire full auto because the sear will always stay on the trigger and rock up and down and not back and forth. The price is I believe 10.00 plus 3 bucks shipping. This is for the T98's and A-5's and will work on any other marker with the same trigger sear design. Remember to look at your sear and make sure you order the right one. The older model 98's have an extention spring with loops on the ends, the new models have a compression spring. The sears are different for each. Another problem that you will have is getting your balls to load fast enough. Because allowing your bolt to just bounce back and forth like this speeds the gun to 30+bps. and the cyclone will stop operation after so many rounds because of back pressure. So if you want to be sure that you get a good feed you will need the Q-loader it is capable of feeding 30+bps. Give a message if you have any questions. Happy Hunting...lol

pope120
04-21-2007, 11:42 AM
hey i tried this trigger job and as soon as i cocked it and went out to test it i had a 20 oz on it and it went bye bye as in i pulle dthe trigger adn it wouldnt stop firing. it froze my gun. but luckily i had another

JChan819
04-21-2007, 12:26 PM
My cousin tried this, and it didn't really work the first time. -_- I guess we gotta keep trying.

Magmoormaster
02-13-2008, 12:41 PM
2 easy ways to do this: remove trigger spring. The sear re-catching the hammer returns the trigger (at least for 98's). or you could replace it with a spring from a clicky spring.

redz22
02-17-2008, 03:04 PM
DUDE! This thread was 10 months old! dont up it.

cclaxattack30
02-17-2008, 03:10 PM
DUDE! This thread was 10 months old! dont up it.

DUDE! Its been dead since Wednesday! Don't up it!

mygoditseric
04-08-2008, 05:43 PM
Is there a trigger mod for Viewloader Triton 2?
I hate the trigger, it's like...heavy.

super_pro
05-27-2008, 11:09 AM
I made a different mod for my Viewloader Orion. Made it a full auto. Here is it in action. http://video.google.ca/videosearchq=viewloader+orion&sitesearch=#
It used 3 oz. of co2 there.

SPRAYonPAINT
01-26-2009, 09:35 AM
yeah this is cool i guess but why not just buy a pilot acs or something and take the trigger frame off it then sell the rest with your old frame for like 20 bucks less then what you bought it for? thats what i did.

di$TOrTed
02-22-2009, 11:26 AM
yeah this is cool i guess but why not just buy a pilot acs or something and take the trigger frame off it then sell the rest with your old frame for like 20 bucks less then what you bought it for? thats what i did.

because back when this thread was started they didn't have Pilot ACSs. I don't even know if spyder/tippmann had started going electronic in 2001 yet