First Autococker Upgrade?????

[AzNHxC]

Want to know what would be the most worthwhile thing to get first. It would help if you suggested names. I'm thinking barrel first but there could be something else. A 12" X-cel is what i was gonna get.

[|2estrictedArea]

without a good barrel your accuracy is to he||.. ive heard that the stock barrels are just ****ty "tourist traps" get a very nice one then get a trigger job then move to the bolts, and then fix whatever is up..

M

[elTwitcho]

Barrel, reg, 3 way

[krasher]

hmmm...if its a 2k1 cocker, then don't bother with a new 3 way until you have a new trigger frame. If its a 99 and earlier, sure, get a nice smooth 3 way.

I would get a barrel, then a pivot frame, then a nice reg (if you have nitro already), then a rock, then a new 3 way, then a new valve, then a new bolt. I'm probably forgetting something.

[AzNHxC]

ya it's a 2k with a drop forward and macroline....But what kind of barrel should i get an x-cel or maybe a CP

[Red_October]

I would go trigger frame and job because thats what I should have done. I went barrel and thats a good first upgrade too, but the stock cocker barrel is not that bad to play with.

[DasBaldDog]

Listen to this cause it will save you ALOT of money. If you have a 2K or 2K1 cocker, DO NOT mess with the front block. It performs perfectly with all the other stock equipment. I am apprenticing to a WGP specialist that has been using cockers since '92 (when they first came out) and has been working on them for that long (the first cockers were REALLY unreliable) and what I have discovered is that the 2K and 2K1's pneumatics are just a smidgen not as good as aftermarket parts. Is it really worth $150 or more to make the ball go a millimeter more accurate or 1 fps more consistant? I would rather spend that money towards a new Nitro tank or barrel.

[filasophikal]

if its 2k1... bolt, barrel, hinge trigger, ergo reg, and your set. 2k1 has all the same components like the sto's without the the fancy annodize color, and milling.

[wushupeter]

the first thing you need isnt; up there, before a barrel, or anything else, you need a drop forward

[Silent Knight]

go for the barrel as the first upgrade. The stock barrel is crap on the Autococker! why? because WGP knows that buyers aren't going to keep the stock barrel, so why spend lots of money making a barrel that people will just throw to the side.

Go for a Boomstick!!! it works great, and is very quiet on cockers! don't get a new 3-way! save that for last. The stock pneumatics are fine, and they work great. there is no rush to upgrade the stock front end untill later on. components on the stock front end are practically identical to the STO's front end. the Ram is the same ram found on the STO minus the pretty stuffand the swivel end, the sledghammer is the same one found on the STO minus the pretty stuff, however the 3-way is different. you should leave that for last.

anyway's after the barrel, you should go for a HPA set up

[Edited by Silent Knight on 07-27-2001 at 05:17 AM]

[AzNHxC]

I have a drop forward and a macroline....I'm saving up for a nitro tank. Then i'm getting a Titanium boomy...:D

[|2estrictedArea]

Does a compact come with a Drop forward? or is there anyway I can install one on it? do I need one?

M

[AzNHxC]

You'd need to buy a drop forward for a compact.....

[JDub]

i went the wrong way and got a new barrel before a nitro tank and i really messed up....but i got a xcell 14" and i like it but its no boomy =)

[|2estrictedArea]

Im just going to save up and get A BOOYAH trigger frame, or ill just get a barrel!

[krasher]

Originally posted by DasBaldDog
Listen to this cause it will save you ALOT of money. If you have a 2K or 2K1 cocker, DO NOT mess with the front block. It performs perfectly with all the other stock equipment. I am apprenticing to a WGP specialist that has been using cockers since '92 (when they first came out) and has been working on them for that long (the first cockers were REALLY unreliable) and what I have discovered is that the 2K and 2K1's pneumatics are just a smidgen not as good as aftermarket parts. Is it really worth $150 or more to make the ball go a millimeter more accurate or 1 fps more consistant? I would rather spend that money towards a new Nitro tank or barrel.


I guess you haven't learned much, the front block has nothing to do with accuracy or consistency. What it does have everything to do with is recocking pressure and in part trigger smoothness. A new 3 way will benefit, and a rock will help (externally adjustable cocking pressure).

[paintballer56]

if its a sto or blackmagic or other awesome cocker, you really wouldnt need a new barrel