View Full Version : Lowering pressure to sub 300
A damn fool
02-19-2001, 04:50 AM
Thisis my setup so far, and what ive done. Ne one know what else i can do to lower psi? Im shooting right under the 300 mark, but not much, and id like to see if i could drop to like 250.
elTwitcho
02-19-2001, 05:36 AM
I dont think it's possible. If you're running really low pressure, your bolt has to stay forward for a longer period of time. On other guns you can set the amount of time that your bolt spends in the forward position with the valve open (on electros we call this dwell). Since a Spyder is blowback, immediately upon hitting and opening the valve, the valve starts "blowing back" the hammer. Because of this, there is a finite amount of time that your bolt can spend in the forward position, and because of this, you cant go much lower than what you already have, because the valve wont stay open long enough to propel a ball at any decent speed
PetWoody
02-19-2001, 06:43 AM
if u go lp u can drop the psi.
this is a real good lp set up:
-AKA lightning bolt
-AKA tornado valve
-AKA mitey max
u can find all this stuff under spyder on this page
http://www.g3pb.com/prod_aka.html
TLplus84
02-19-2001, 08:25 AM
i run 260-280 psi. I just drilled my ASA REAL big, changed springs, got a nice high flow bolt, polished my internals, and did whatever it took to making my gun as high flow as possible. I use SS hose because i think that it has mroe flow than a macro, but then i could b wrong..if you want to get like lower then me, completely AKA your gun. tha'ts the bolt, valve, and lp chamber. I'm thinking about getting th lp chamber. The AKA lp chamber has no restrictions whatsoever.
A damn fool
02-19-2001, 02:54 PM
The lp chamber wil halep, right, i stil use the stock one, becasue my new one was on backorder. I still haev that leak coming out of the bolt htough. It would stop, and then start again. I dont know what the hell it is, ne one know?
TLplus84
02-19-2001, 03:34 PM
you know..it might be the valve. There could be a scratch on the valve, although you can't see it, it still could be there. take it to an airsmith, see what they say. By the way you're making it sound, i think it could be a valve problem. I had the same problem with my first turbo valve.
A damn fool
02-19-2001, 05:55 PM
How much did it cost to fix
/ I dont think it is a scratch, becasue it stopped the second half of the day. Im going to buy a lapco cup seal and hope it helps, if not, ill bring it the airsmith. I didnt have a problme with the turbo valve until i put on the drilled asa adapter, and new spring. I was happy though with the wy it worked today, at just under 300. It was cold as **** though.
TLplus84
02-19-2001, 05:58 PM
oh damn..maybe some aluminum shreads from the drillin got into the valve and scratched it up..you really cna't fix a scratched valve, you have to get a new one..
A damn fool
02-20-2001, 12:53 PM
i dont htink thats it, becuase it didnt leak with my anti siphon tank, or in the cold, but wehen i hooked up a regular tank, and it got reall cold, it would leak. Do u have ne idea why the aftermarket rod and cupseal dont work in it though? Im wondeing if that will lower my psi at all, if i could get it to work.
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