What's wrong with my 'cocker?

[SwantonBomber]

i have a 2000 WGP autococker that i bought brand new. I have a bottomline installed too. when i first gased it up, all the CO2 left the tank and "breathed it ALL out the barrel. That's not the only problem, when i shoot the gun, it doesn't recock. This is really pissing me off. It makes me want to quit paintball

[pbmstr]

You never say that. Take it down to your pro shop and have em time it for you, or send it to wgp and they will do it.:eek:

[unknown]

yes..
my first suggestion is to learn about cockers before buying one.. but now that you have one, a brand new cocker needs to be timed. so go down and get it timed.

[Lemonjello]

Here are somr reasons and how to fix em':
Barrel Leaks

Cock the paintgun before gassing up: Probably the most common cause of barrel leaks is nothing more than the hammer resting against the valve and holding it open when the paintgun is first gassed up. This isn’t really a problem, just the new Autococker-user’s misunderstanding. If your Autococker starts to vent air down the barrel when you first gas it up, it’s probably because you haven’t cocked the hammer back first. Just make sure to pull back the cocking rod or the back block until the hammer locks back before attaching or turning on your air source.

Dry cup seal: If you notice a slow leak down your barrel, you may just have a dry cup seal. Put a few drops of oil in your ASA before gassing the ’gun up and cycle the oil through the paintgun. This will often help seal up very minor leaks. Tip: take your barrel off or turn your bolt upside-down before doing this to avoid spraying the inside of your barrel with oil.

Blown/damaged cup-seal: If a little oil doesn’t clear up your leak, or you have a more vigorous leak, it may be that the cup seal in your valve is damaged or blown out completely. If this is the case, you’ll need to buy a new cup seal (remember to buy the right one if you have an aftermarket valve!) and replace it. Replacing the cup seal is rather involved and requires a special tool to pull the valve. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you may want to send your Autococker back to the shop (WGP or custom shop of your choice) to have the cup seal replaced.

Blown/damaged valve-guide O-ring: If you pull your valve out and find that your cup seal is perfectly fine, check the O-ring that sits around the front edge of the valve guide (the main body of the valve) and replace it if damaged. As this is not a moving O-ring, it doesn’t commonly get damaged during normal use. Look to it as the problem if you have recently had the valve replaced or repaired as it is commonly damaged when the valve is pulled out or installed.

Blown shaft O-ring on RAT valve or other custom valve: If you have a custom valve that has an extra O-ring on the shaft of the cup-seal stem (the Shocktech RAT valve was the first valve to include this feature), check it for wear or damage as well if you are having barrel leaks.

New cup-seal: If you have a new Autococker, or you’ve just had the valve or cup-seal replaced, you may find that you have a slow leak down the barrel when you first gas the paintgun up. This problem is particularly prevalent with some aftermarket valves with very hard cup-seal materials (the Tornado valve is notorious for this). The problem here is usually that the new cup seal material has not yet broken in to perfectly seal against the front edge of the valve guide. This will go away in time as the face of the cup-seal wears in. To seal things up and hasten the valve’s breaking in, turn up your input pressure until the valve seals, then cycle the ’gun a few hundred times. You should then be able to turn the pressure back down and keep a good seal.

Improperly-installed valve/valve-spring: If you’ve just had your valve replaced or repaired and you are now getting a vigorous leak down the barrel, another possibility is simply human error. If the valve isn’t in straight, or the valve spring is kinked or at a funny angle, the cup seal may not seat flush against the front of the valve guide. Pull the valve and reinstall it taking care to ensure everything goes in straight.

[paintballer56]

ya i used to cock, after, i gassed, i now realize how much of a fool i am

[cockermongol]

It's probably because you're using Co2.

Try HPA.

[amzng_spyderman]

post before cockermongol's: 08-23-2001 07:16 PM
cockermongol's post: 03-17-2004 06:53 PM

don't revive threads this old :rolleyes: