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View Full Version : Autococker upgrades?


Jcocker420
02-23-2001, 01:48 PM
Whats the best upgrades for an autococker?

I'm looking at a dye boomstick and a super fly shocktech bolt, and a nitro tank...what do you say?

Counterfeit
02-23-2001, 02:16 PM
Moved to high end semi forum.

Sockboy
02-23-2001, 02:32 PM
Personally, I think the upgrades you get should reflect the style of play youhave. One mans autococker may be terrible for another.
Do you paly in very cold weather? If you primarily paly in temps above 70, the nitro isnt as important an upgrade. Also, what paint do you plan to shoot? a boomstick is great for very small paints, but as soon as you put med or large paint in it, it will break balls left and right.
lastly, the shocktech bolts are designed for low pressure use. You would need to change out the stock valve to an aftermarket high flow valve and reset your regulator in order to reap the benefits of the bolt, otherwise it would blow ppaint apart in your barrel, because it isnt a true venturi design.

Counterfeit
02-23-2001, 02:42 PM
Basically there are 4 upgrades you should do to an autococker. The rest after that is not neerly as important and is just preference.

In order of inmportance:
Barrel (must have for any gun)
Revi (you will overshoot and chop if you don't have one)
45 frame (the stock plastic one is garbage)
Nitro (not neccisary but will give you a lto more consistancy)

Counterfeit
02-23-2001, 02:43 PM
Basically there are 4 upgrades you should do to an autococker. The rest after that is not neerly as important and is just preference.

In order of inmportance:
Barrel (must have for any gun)
Revi (you will overshoot and chop if you don't have one)
45 frame (the stock plastic one is garbage)
Nitro (not neccisary but will give you a lot more consistancy)

Nemessis
02-23-2001, 03:44 PM
Hmmm well best upgrades for cocker hmmmm, well this is what I would do:

New barrel- Cp 1 piece, accurate and cheap

New Grip frame- Benchmark or Dye doesnt matter dye has 3 set screws benchmark has 2. These screws manage (on the benchmark) verticle slack and back slack. On the dye they take out verticle, back and side to side, either way you cant go wrong.

Front Reg- A reg is a reg is a reg, all will perform the same pretty much, some look better than others, I like the ans reg because it looks curvy (sexy)

#-way- Some call it a 3 some call it a 4 either way it is the same. A palmer is a good #-way but requires a higher pressure to not leak, so i wouldnt lean towards one, an ans is good doesnt leak and has a very short throw, an sto is also a very short throw. A shocktech is a very very very good #-way because of the very short throw and it makes the lines more organized up front.

Ram- Well in Ravi's words a bran muffin is a bran muffin I like the sto rams cuz they can be easily rebuilt.

Cocking rod- Doesnt matter which one but the stock one sucks

Hammer Kit- Stock one sucks, aci makes a good external velocity adjuster one

Spring kit- Maddmans, Nelsons etc.

LP Valve And LP Bolt together- If they arent bought together its screws settings tornado valve and dezign bolt are the best. Dezign bolts are custom made.

thats all I can think of.

july_favre
02-23-2001, 04:47 PM
Barrel is definately the most important. I would hold off on the super fly though, its not going to make much of a difference. After a barrel i would get a 45 frame and a new 3way if you have the older stock 3ways and do a trigger job (I prefer the roller sear, aka old style plate, old style benchy, shocktech bomb-ver short, smooth and light). This is going to help you shoot faster, as opposed to ther mods that will just lower your pressure or look pretty. Performancewise I wouldnt change anything else on the gun(unles you have a really old model). Anything else is for looks or to go low pressure or to just say you have it. Some people say that low pressure is more accurate but I havent ever seen a difference. Low pressure will help you achieve a softer trigger pull.