Polishing...

[PSYCHO+LOGICAL]

Hey,

I'm polishing the inside of my 98c reciver halves and I want to make it cycle a little smoother than what it would be like with just the reciever polished.

Is there much point to polishing the rear bolt? Like does it touch the reciver? Also, is the sear made out of aluminum?

I could see a smoother sear causing less resistance. Must achieve smoothest cycle...

[snaretan]

I would only polish the reciever halves. The only reason I did this to mine is because it was very bumpy from paint from the factory. The bolt seemed to be pretty smooth so I didn't see it nessacary to do anything to that. Yes, it does rub against your reciever halves so smoothness will become a factor. However, I think it's best to polish your reciever halves and then let normal wear take care of the bolt. After a while when you take your marker apart, you will see where the bolt wears on the halves, it shouldn't be that bad.

Personally I don't like messing with the sear. If you make the sear release easier your marker becomes dangerous. The jarring it takes from running could set it off. Not to mention if you dive or slide or whatever. Yes, I'd like a shorter and/or lighter trigger pull, but keep that work on the trigger, not the sear.

Tan

[Turambar]

I'm going to have to agree with Snare on this one. All I did was polish the receivers as well and it worked fine for me. As for polishing the bolt, it may cycle smoother, but I don't think it would make much of a difference. And definitely I'd have to agree with the sear. I wouldn't mess with it.

[Relentless]

i would nod and say i agree with them, and hit the post button, but thats spam and spam is bad ;)


i polished where the trigger moves, where the rear bolt moves, and where the front bolt moves...

bolt wouldnt help much, and the sear would be pointless (and dangerous)

[snaretan]

Don't forget to polish where the linkage arm moves!

Tan

[PSYCHO+LOGICAL]

There is a huge fire really close to me that burned down a cable transmitter that completely screwed over my internet, so I never actually got a chance to read your guys' posts.

I only used steel wool on the recess that the front bolt, power tube and rear bolt rest in, and also the flat surface where the pins and trigger go.

The linkage arm guide is a ***** though so I won't even bother. I think the sear is steel anyways too so I won't mess around with that either. Even with the anodizing gone and no polish applied, it sounds like it cycles alot smoother. However, I did take out the safety and trigger spring and put a little bit of tape on the pin that the sear rests on as to shorten trigger pull.

One of the side effects of too much tape is a sear that doesn't catch after the first shot and goes full auto. When the dude at the shop was putting in the antisyphon on my tank I asked if I could borrow some gas to test it. The first shots were ok, but on the third shot it went f*ckin nuts and I had to stop the bolt handle with my hand. No harm done but I had to ditch the tape and replace it with a little less :rolleyes:

(edit)They told people on the news that people who bought fireworks for the long weekend should not use them because of the dry conditions and potential hazard of starting another fire. Well, like 15 minutes ago, I kept hearing these EEEEEEEEEE-POP's of bottle rockets going off. Then, sure enough, there goes a fire truck right past my house...(/edit)

[snaretan]

Originally posted by PSYCHO+LOGICAL
There is a huge fire really close to me that burned down a cable transmitter that completely screwed over my internet, so I never actually got a chance to read your guys' posts.

I only used steel wool on the recess that the front bolt, power tube and rear bolt rest in, and also the flat surface where the pins and trigger go.

The linkage arm guide is a ***** though so I won't even bother. I think the sear is steel anyways too so I won't mess around with that either. Even with the anodizing gone and no polish applied, it sounds like it cycles alot smoother. However, I did take out the safety and trigger spring and put a little bit of tape on the pin that the sear rests on as to shorten trigger pull.

One of the side effects of too much tape is a sear that doesn't catch after the first shot and goes full auto. When the dude at the shop was putting in the antisyphon on my tank I asked if I could borrow some gas to test it. The first shots were ok, but on the third shot it went f*ckin nuts and I had to stop the bolt handle with my hand. No harm done but I had to ditch the tape and replace it with a little less :rolleyes:

(edit)They told people on the news that people who bought fireworks for the long weekend should not use them because of the dry conditions and potential hazard of starting another fire. Well, like 15 minutes ago, I kept hearing these EEEEEEEEEE-POP's of bottle rockets going off. Then, sure enough, there goes a fire truck right past my house...(/edit)

Glad you finished it. Quick question for anyone else thinking of polishing their internals, why did you polish where your power tube sits? Nothing there moves, you wasted a bit of time.

I think you'd be better off putting tape on the pins that hold your trigger, as opposed to the one that holds your sear. That way, it CAN'T go full auto. Worst case scenario it won't fire.

That sucks about the fireworks.

Tan

[BMXer]

I've been wondering, if you polish the sear where it touches the trigger slide, and polish the receiver where the sear rubs against, would it hurt anything?

[snaretan]

Polishing the reciever where the sear rubs (trigger too) would help out, but I doubt it would be noticable. If you polish where the sear touches the trigger slide, you may run into problems of not firing when pulling the trigger. But the thing is, if you are successful, you won't do anything.

Tan

[PSYCHO+LOGICAL]

Who said anything about polishing where the power tube sits. It's obvious that it doesnt move because you have to flip the reciever over and undo another two bolts that hold the it in.

Anyone who does polish there, on the other hand, is obviously not suited to even expose the internals to his or her stupidity.

I even asked the Tippmann Proshop and they said it was a good idea. My bolt tubes are now smooth with 3 applications of polish and with the trigger you could kind of feel it rubbing on the rough anodizing, but now it has an oil-on-glass texture.

This is easy to do and it is noticable if you take the time. Initial cost is about 10 bucks and it can be done again in the future at no expense.

- rags, free
- box of steel wool, $2
- eagle one or mothers aluminum polish $7

I also touched up my paint and sprayed a couple coats of clearcoat on the outsides of the recievers (tape off insides first) to making cleaning gun hits easier. Just noticed how annoying getting paint off the stock paint really was.

$5 and your gun will be shiny and easy to clean, plus, with a few coats of that stuff, your gun will not scratch unless it goes through the hard clear surface first.

Peace guys.

[Turambar]

Originally posted by PSYCHO+LOGICAL
Who said anything about polishing where the power tube sits. It's obvious that it doesnt move because you have to flip the reciever over and undo another two bolts that hold the it in.

Anyone who does polish there, on the other hand, is obviously not suited to even expose the internals to his or her stupidity.

I have to disagree with that one. So what if it isn't moving. You'll want a nice even surface for the hammer to slide on into the powertube. It may not be much of a lip, but not polishing the whole thing can make a difference. But that's just how I feel about that thing there, so oh well.

[PSYCHO+LOGICAL]

There is no point to polishing where the power tube sits because there are no moving parts on it. I polished just a little underneath where the rear bolt slides into the power tube to make sure the entire surface that the rear bolt contacts was smooth. Other than doing that, dont even remove the anodizing from where the power tube sits.

The 98c is about as simple as you get.
This is only a small thing you can do.
It's dumb when you see a 98c decked out so much that you can tell immediatly that the parts on the marker are worth four times as much as the marker itself is new.

Personally not even going to waste my money on any Tippmann specific parts for mine. Just some decent parts I can use for now, and that can be transfered to my 68 automag when I get it. Automag... *drools*

[snaretan]

Originally posted by PSYCHO+LOGICAL
Who said anything about polishing where the power tube sits. It's obvious that it doesnt move because you have to flip the reciever over and undo another two bolts that hold the it in.


I thought you did in the previous post....

Originally posted by PSYCHO+LOGICAL
I only used steel wool on the recess that the front bolt, power tube and rear bolt rest in, and also the flat surface where the pins and trigger go.


Communication break down there, I didn't understand what you meant, sorry bout that.

Originally posted by Turambar
I have to disagree with that one. So what if it isn't moving. You'll want a nice even surface for the hammer to slide on into the powertube. It may not be much of a lip, but not polishing the whole thing can make a difference. But that's just how I feel about that thing there, so oh well.


I'm thinking if you didn't polish it, then there would be less friction behind the power tube since your halves wouldn't come together as well. But if you did polish it, you would have an decrease on oring wear on the bolt. But I don't think the 1 millimeter you polish off would be all that significan't either way. Oh well, doesn't matter.

Originally posted by PSYCHO+LOGICAL
It's dumb when you see a 98c decked out so much that you can tell immediatly that the parts on the marker are worth four times as much as the marker itself is new.

Personally not even going to waste my money on any Tippmann specific parts for mine. Just some decent parts I can use for now, and that can be transfered to my 68 automag when I get it. Automag... *drools*


I have a female stab on my 98c. Cost nearly as much as the marker did. Kinda a waste, but my next marker will inherit the regulator, so I got a semi-expensive upgrade paid for already.

I kinda want to do one of those american express comercial things....

Brand new 98c.... ~$120
Upgrades for new 98c ~$200
Trasnfering expensive upgrades to a better marker... priceless


If I get a new marker, it'll probably be a Blazer unless I can find a deal on some of the other markers I'd like to own.

Tan

[willpill]

Originally posted by snaretan




If I get a new marker, it'll probably be a Blazer unless I can find a deal on some of the other markers I'd like to own.

Tan


ya go tan!!! blazers!!!

Keep it on topic, will. I'm letting this one slide.

Turambar

[PSYCHO+LOGICAL]

Jesus.

Way to not show my last post... stupid old vBulletin.

I think it went along the lines of agreeing with tan about having a $200 gun (cad) with over $800 in upgrades like a $100 reloader, 160 dollar dye ultralite, $250 reg setup, $300 HPA system...

I don't think I'm gonna put any tippmann specific parts on it, and HPA will be my last upgrade until I can afford a 68mag with a level 10 valve.

Boo Tippmann. Yay Mag!

Hows that for OT.

:freak:

[bulletbill]

i would just leave your gun alone!!! the internals are fine! i just polished my rear bolt on a polish whell so it looks shiny.....but it does hardly anything for performance(well that is noticable that is)

[PSYCHO+LOGICAL]

Thanks for the advice bud,


...too bad it's already done, and for the record, it is quite noticable if you polished in the correct areas. The bolt is actually already smooth enough because if you compare a polished bolt chamber with an unpolished bolt, there isn't much difference.

:dunce:

(add) I have a question. Can you put a strip of teflon tape on the top of the part that the front bolt slides on? Or like 2 or three strips on it just to fill up that gap and get rid of the play. Would doing so possibly increase gas efficiency by not letting so much gas through the gap? (/add)

[snaretan]

That won't make your gun more effecient. Your bolt will still travel at the same speed hitting the valve the same amount and the same gas will come out. The blowback will still travel the path of lease resistance wherever it can. It might make your gun blowback harder

But, there is a problem. If any of that teflon tape gets in the way of your linkage arm, front bolt or rear bolt, you could jam your gun and have to take it apart to repair.

Tan

[PSYCHO+LOGICAL]

Someone buy my gun or delete this thread cuz it's dead.

My avatar ownz j00 btw.