Trigger mod for revelation

[whizzit]

Out of poorness and thinking it would be cool I'm going to modify my trigger pull on my VL Revelation. I've read over a few threads and sites and generally have a good understanding of how a trigger works.

>>>Uhh, to the point on the front slack you either glue something on top of the "toe" of the trip or drill a hole and thread in a screw. But maybe I'm just looking at it wrong or I'm stupid but if I put anything there won't it restrict the trigger thingy from going under the sear to push up the sear?

Sorry I don't have a digital camera so no pictures. But when I push the sear forward (when the trigger frame is off) it just slides right over the trigger pusher thingy, don't know the right name.

Anyways with the rear stop I got it, haven't done it yet but looks basic.

[whizzit]

I love how helpful this forum is.

Anywho I successfully modified my trigger anyways, except for the back stop. Its a big improvement and I LOVE IT!!! Can't stop trying it out :D

[sosoDAF]

I am the first response!
lol
anyways, my friend has a VL revelation, and he would like to know how to make the trigger pull better.
How can he?

[whizzit]

cool a reply...i didn't even have to pretend and make other user.

Uh, anywho. I'd first start by looking at this site:
http://www.ottersccustoms.com/trigger.html
to get a general understanding of the trigger frame, parts, and what things are called, and/or take off the bottom line and trigger frame and see how things work in there.

WARNING: I couldn't get my trigger pin out either way, I was using some good force, so I wouldn't try it at all, besides you shouldn't need to.

Ok so theres the pin that holds your sear in place, the one right in the middle of it. Then theres the one on which it rests. To make it so that less actual trigger pull is needed to move the sear and release the striker we'll need to put something around the resting pin, so that the sear will rest higher. I cut off a piece of a pen (the tube that holds the ink) then put a slit in one side. You might want to pry it open just a bit, not too much. Don't take out this resting pin now, just push down the tube until it basically clings onto the pin. A little tricky but worth the effort.

After the tube I then put two slices of electrical tape on top of each other ontop of the tube. The tube itself didn't raise the sear enough and 2 pen tubes is too much. You could try 3 slices but when you put the trigger frame back on, the sear might have raised too much that it won't catch the striker. 4 is absolutly too much.

Now the sear modification is done, the hardest part. Now you can skip this paragraph or not, but reading will help. Put the sear back in and put the trigger frame back on the marker. Pull back the striker and you should see that the sear catches the striker, as normal. Now slowly pull the trigger, you'll notice it takes longer for it to actually reach the sear (to where it starts taking effort to pull), cool eh? :nod:

To get rid of the "front slack" take off the trigger frame, or keep it off, and look at the tip of the trigger, the "toe". I glued one sheet of construction paper to it, then glued two pieces of tooth picks side-by-side on top of that. I used contact cement but any type of good adhesive will work. LET IT DRY AND MAKE SURE IT WILL NOT RESTRICT TRIGGER PULL. Now screw back on the trigger frame. You'll notice as you screw it back on the trigger will actually pull back...finally your seeing the fruits of your labour :love:

Cock your marker and try out your new trigger pull a few times without CO2 in it. If everyting has gone right you should see/feel a big difference. If you try to cock your mark and it doesn't cock then you have to take more off of your sear resting pin. If when you pull the trigger and it doesn't release the sear then get ride of the construction paper (hopefully you didn't use that much glue). If you need something clarified furthermore (I've never given instructions like this before) then reply some more or PM me.

Unfortunately your safety will now not work, and someplaces I've heard this voids your warrenty or whatever. Just make sure your barrel plug/condom is always on and you only hook up co2 and paint when your soon going to play.

[whizzit]

:eek: man that was a long post

Now for your rear slack, all the movement behind the location of where the trigger is pulled to where the marker fires. I've fiddled with it but haven't made anything that is sturdy or looks professionally done.

When pulling your trigger find the exact place where it fires, then notice the place up behind the trigger where it is stopped by the trigger frame. I folded some paper so it was like a thick strip. I then put SOME of it up in that space behind the trigger. It should be long enough so that while some of it is in that space a good 2 centimeters is sticking out. Now with some tape tape the paper to the trigger frame. I used electrical tape because its black.

Now gently pull your trigger back, if done right once the marker fires the trigger should stop. Just fold a thicker or thiner piece depending upon results. This doesn't work great since the tape will get pushed around while your gripping your frame and playing. I'll post later if I find something that works.

Forgot to mention, search the whole forum and you'll find other useful tips/tricks with trigger mods. Plus sorry if this confusing, I'm not the greatest with explaining but after a bit of fooling around with your trigger frame you'll get the hang of it. Took me only 2 days to figure it out like the back of my hand. Good luck!