Speedballer109
09-08-2003, 12:56 PM
Are you wanting to turn your old Revvy into a intellfeed system or wanting to make your own hopper? Well here are some easy step by step plans.
***The intellfeed system for most guns***
(Including, (Spyders-electro), Fishies, and Draguns).
Turning your Old revvy into a intellfeed...
On a Revvy you will notice how you have a about 4 wires coming out of the Servo or motor. I'm not sure which of the 4 wires you will be using or using at all...To do the fact that there are 2 unknown wires that i know nothing of. Therefore you will proabably need tp purchase a nice new Servo,-advantages to this new servo more torque= more unjammed balls. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUK84&P=0...With an intellfeed revvy you can forget about that board, you will no longer need one...Your internals will have a setup like this...http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-7/294254/Diagram.jpg
If you look at the Diagram (which is very easy to follow) you will notice silver on both the trigger and the micro-switch, those are to metal pieces glued with (epoxy) **cut to width of the trigger and width of micro switch** the wires that are used to be soldered to the 2 pieces are called "sevore extensions" http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL290&P=0.
Step 1
-Purchase a new sevore from Towerhoobies.com or if you can figure which 2 wires on the sevor can spin if a batter is attached to them then those are the two you use.
-Open up the Sevore if you have purchased one, be CAREFUL. Notice that when u take out all the gears there is this brass like notch on thee small motor. looks like a rectangle, The gear that is put onto that notch has a knob which will only allow that brass notch to fit in, Ta a drill depending on the width of the balc piece chisel or scrape away the inside of the black piece so that u can move the gear freely around the brass notch without having it get caught, (if that notch gets cause it cause the motor to stop, this is way you have to drill out the inside of the piece to allow a free spinning gear)
-open the casing underneath the sevore u will notice a chip... with four wires solder to it, you will only be using the red and black, from what i remember you will need to solder 1 or both of the wires to a new slot, to test if the motor spins plug the clip attached to the sevore into one of the "plug in play" wires, making sure that the sevore clip fits into the "plug in play", cut one end of the clips off and attach the red/back wire to a 9 volt battery, the sevore should spin 360 degrees over an over if you followed the above steps...of removing th inside of the piece located inside the sevor, if it works put the case back onto the servo and reassemle your sevore which should of already have been done during the second step.
**Because u will no longer be using your board u will want to purchase a toggle switch to have the system turn on/off http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F015%5F006&product%5Fid=275%2D620 most toggle switches come with a nut so that u can put in your toggle switch and then use a nut to fasten it tightly on the outside**Also need to purchase 1 or 2 9 volt battery clips depending id u have a 12 volt hopper or a 9 volt hopper http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F001%5F000&product%5Fid=270%2D325
**Follow the diagram above for assembly**
-Now that your motor works...you can now start assembling your system..
-Solder the black wire from the servo to the Toggle switch,
-Solder both battery clips together, red to red, black to black.
-Solder the red wire from the servo to the red battery clips.
- Solder the black wire from the "plug in play" ( use the whole length of the wires, use red and black/ not the white) to the toggle switch not you have your wiring completed for your switch.
-Solder the reaming red wire from the "plug in play" to the battery clip (black wires are what u will solder them to)
**3 diagram is the easiest to follow, shows the wiring routes**
- Last but not least is to take one more of the "plug and play" wires depending on which connector is hanging out from your switch and battery clip, you will use the opposite clip for this next step so that you can simply plug them into each other, Any who wou will want cut one of the ends off, using the black and red wired solder both wires to 2 pieces of metal, piece of metal must be a mm smaller than the width of the trigger and a mm smaller then the micro-switch width so that u can easily glue both pieces...
Congrats you have finished your hopper:D , For custom making your own hopper please refer to the all above;) , have any questions feel free to pm me at anytime
****NOTE**** When you have glued the pieces to the trigger /switch and cannot pull trigger so that the frame doesn not fire, file off some solder so that u can pull the trigger and have the button pushed around the same time...therefore you can pull the trigger and then went he 2 pieces touch the hopper will spin, it acts like a 2 switch
***The intellfeed system for most guns***
(Including, (Spyders-electro), Fishies, and Draguns).
Turning your Old revvy into a intellfeed...
On a Revvy you will notice how you have a about 4 wires coming out of the Servo or motor. I'm not sure which of the 4 wires you will be using or using at all...To do the fact that there are 2 unknown wires that i know nothing of. Therefore you will proabably need tp purchase a nice new Servo,-advantages to this new servo more torque= more unjammed balls. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUK84&P=0...With an intellfeed revvy you can forget about that board, you will no longer need one...Your internals will have a setup like this...http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-7/294254/Diagram.jpg
If you look at the Diagram (which is very easy to follow) you will notice silver on both the trigger and the micro-switch, those are to metal pieces glued with (epoxy) **cut to width of the trigger and width of micro switch** the wires that are used to be soldered to the 2 pieces are called "sevore extensions" http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL290&P=0.
Step 1
-Purchase a new sevore from Towerhoobies.com or if you can figure which 2 wires on the sevor can spin if a batter is attached to them then those are the two you use.
-Open up the Sevore if you have purchased one, be CAREFUL. Notice that when u take out all the gears there is this brass like notch on thee small motor. looks like a rectangle, The gear that is put onto that notch has a knob which will only allow that brass notch to fit in, Ta a drill depending on the width of the balc piece chisel or scrape away the inside of the black piece so that u can move the gear freely around the brass notch without having it get caught, (if that notch gets cause it cause the motor to stop, this is way you have to drill out the inside of the piece to allow a free spinning gear)
-open the casing underneath the sevore u will notice a chip... with four wires solder to it, you will only be using the red and black, from what i remember you will need to solder 1 or both of the wires to a new slot, to test if the motor spins plug the clip attached to the sevore into one of the "plug in play" wires, making sure that the sevore clip fits into the "plug in play", cut one end of the clips off and attach the red/back wire to a 9 volt battery, the sevore should spin 360 degrees over an over if you followed the above steps...of removing th inside of the piece located inside the sevor, if it works put the case back onto the servo and reassemle your sevore which should of already have been done during the second step.
**Because u will no longer be using your board u will want to purchase a toggle switch to have the system turn on/off http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F015%5F006&product%5Fid=275%2D620 most toggle switches come with a nut so that u can put in your toggle switch and then use a nut to fasten it tightly on the outside**Also need to purchase 1 or 2 9 volt battery clips depending id u have a 12 volt hopper or a 9 volt hopper http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F001%5F000&product%5Fid=270%2D325
**Follow the diagram above for assembly**
-Now that your motor works...you can now start assembling your system..
-Solder the black wire from the servo to the Toggle switch,
-Solder both battery clips together, red to red, black to black.
-Solder the red wire from the servo to the red battery clips.
- Solder the black wire from the "plug in play" ( use the whole length of the wires, use red and black/ not the white) to the toggle switch not you have your wiring completed for your switch.
-Solder the reaming red wire from the "plug in play" to the battery clip (black wires are what u will solder them to)
**3 diagram is the easiest to follow, shows the wiring routes**
- Last but not least is to take one more of the "plug and play" wires depending on which connector is hanging out from your switch and battery clip, you will use the opposite clip for this next step so that you can simply plug them into each other, Any who wou will want cut one of the ends off, using the black and red wired solder both wires to 2 pieces of metal, piece of metal must be a mm smaller than the width of the trigger and a mm smaller then the micro-switch width so that u can easily glue both pieces...
Congrats you have finished your hopper:D , For custom making your own hopper please refer to the all above;) , have any questions feel free to pm me at anytime
****NOTE**** When you have glued the pieces to the trigger /switch and cannot pull trigger so that the frame doesn not fire, file off some solder so that u can pull the trigger and have the button pushed around the same time...therefore you can pull the trigger and then went he 2 pieces touch the hopper will spin, it acts like a 2 switch