Note to self: Do not mess w/ timing

[Halliday]

Funny how your hear pople talk about Cockers, saying, "If it works don't mess with it." Guess it goes for Shockers too.

When I first got my brand new 4x4 LS, it came timed from SP. It skipped alot of balls, but at 150psi/280fps it got over 500 shots off a 68/3000 HPA tank.

Eventually I got "smart" and timed it myself, getting rid of the skipped shots, upping the ROF but losing shot efficancy (170psi/280fps and about 500 shots of a 20oz co2 tank).

Then I thought I got "smart" again, thinking that if I lowered the pressure I'd gain more shots. All I did was move the "Fire" pot a little down and I threw a good working Shocker out of whack. I was back to skipping shots all day today. I'd rather have bad efficancy than balls going 15' out the barrel. It's just so humiliating.

The moral of the story is: If it works, don't mess with it!

[AllOleander]

Naw just kidding. :D Hehe thx for the info

[Halliday]

Well, I sat down today with a full 20oz co2 tank and after shooting about 100 paintballs through my Shocker I believe I have it running good again.

Whew.

[Archer99]

I have read every dang bit of info I can possibly find on the net about timing a shocker. It still took pure old trial and error to time it. I tried the settings recommended by shockerowners.org and my gun would NOT shoot full auto with out shoot down, and that was on 9.5 bps. I sped everthing up, and now have mine timed at 11.25bps and fire/bolt set to off, on, on, off. I kept pinching balls because I had so much blowback the balls were going up the feed tube then falling halfway into the chamber and getting caught. Easy fix right?- Just speed up the fire pulse, well believe it or not I slowed down the fire pulse which you would think would make the blowback worse, but acturally cured it. Makes no sense, but after talking to the SP Shocker tech about timing, I don't feel so bad. I stayed on hold for 4 mins and was told to just try on, off, on, off.

I still have a small amount of blowback, and have trouble chambering the last ball. Anyone else get that?

[Halliday]

Well, I have a 2000 LS with the pots for timing. It says to put them in the middle of the adjustment range and go from there. When you know the flow, that something is fixed by going counter-clockwise on a pot it's just a matter of being patient and not trying to make too big of leaps in too short of time.

[Archer99]

Must be nice.. I'm stuck with the dip switches. You just get it as close as possible. My gun actually shoots better on 11.25bps than it does on 10.5bps. As I understand, when you change the fire rate, it add or subtracts time to your fire and bolt, forcing a re-time.
I could never get my gun timed to my satisfaction until I removed every piece and de-greased everything. After I put it all back, it started working great. I had almost used up that tiny tube of grease it came with, but I called a company on the net that sold dow33, and talked the lady there into sending me a free sample. When I got it, it was a big tube of 5.3oz! I put it in a syringe, and it works great.
After I did some checking I found out that dow33 comes in light, and medium grades. The only difference being consistency. I have the medium and it seems to work great.

[Halliday]

I have just about finished off my sample tube that came with the marker.

I understand about the ROF. It came from the factory set low. After I put on my Werm 2x trigger it was alot easier to shoot, and to see how bad it would skip. :| I am hoping that my Sat test day will go fine. The only way I can ever really be sure something is going to work is to play with for a day. If it need tweeking it won't be a big deal.

[C4pyro]

Yeah I got the dip switches too man...an I believe I need to screw around with my timing as well....it works fine but its almost like it needs a warm up period...that and I took off my air assist, So now I have to accound for that not being there. But anyways, I can still blaze so its just some minor tweeking.

[Archer99]

I think I would like the potentiometer adjustments. With the dip switches you are basically locked into 1 of only 4 potential adjustment settings. If one is a little too fast, and the other a little too slow, you just have to choose between the lesser of 2 evils. With the potentiometers you should be able to get it just right.