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Jonnyrotten7
10-09-2003, 10:10 AM
i just bought an impulse and and when i gassed it up it had a leak coming out of the back. the gun would still shoot it just had a major leak. if it matters i was using c02

cactushugger
10-09-2003, 07:13 PM
in the back.... like near the button to turn ur impy on? And yes CO2 could play a role if you don't have an anti-siphon put inside your tank. Check the orings,tightness of screws etc. But then again what do I know, Im just another guy tryin to sound smart like the rest of us.

pb_fool
10-10-2003, 09:40 AM
What's your full setup first?

The first thing to check, is your hammer screwed all the way in? If you fire one shot does it seal up?

Have you lubed up your bolt(if its not delrin) and hammer assembly?

paintballa888
10-10-2003, 05:05 PM
yeah, u blow the soleniod.period. // hope u have 80 bucks.

//if your lucky you blew the spooll inside the soleniod. 25 buck!!!!

Beatmanias
10-10-2003, 09:16 PM
if he had blown the solenoid, he wouldn't be able to fire PERIOD

Jonnyrotten7
10-14-2003, 04:11 PM
Yeah i dont think it would have shot if i blew the 'noid. I have an evil bolt so it doesnt need to be lubed. i think it could be just the orings on the hammer.

Beatmanias
10-14-2003, 05:10 PM
Ok right now i have the same problem u have... it would shoot but it would leak and I think its the o-rings on the solenoid or the gasket... i'm going to get it fixed by the pro shop people sat. I'll get back to u on whats the problem later.

gijoe720
10-14-2003, 06:43 PM
i had this same problem and it was the solenoid gasket. i took it to my local store and got them to install one for me and now it works fine.

Radom
10-15-2003, 06:56 AM
have same problem right now.

I have replaced the gasket between the solenoid and body and leak is still there.

Have taken the solenoid apart and cleaned/inspected the orings on the spooll valve but leak is still there.

Notice that there are two relief ports on the bottom of the solenoid and if the spooll valve is not cycling correctly or if its orings are leaking it looks like the leak is coming from the gasket area but its from the solenoid itself.

Skog
10-16-2003, 02:19 AM
ok, first thing, where exactly is the leak?

you said the back of the gun, if that measn the max flo, then your pressure is too high, and it is dumping gas, turn it down to 180, and then adjust your dwell so you chrono correctly.

if you mean where the on/off switch is then the solenoid gasket may have gone

if you mean just above the on/off switch (the tube that the hammer is in) then you may have a broken o-ring in the hammer assembly

if you mean the top tube then your bolt may be in backwards - don't laugh, its happened to people before

Beatmanias
10-16-2003, 04:33 PM
mine is weird... its leaking from the solenoid i know for sure... but i feel the gas from where the trigger is *the little hole*, where the trigger frame dissassemples like where the trigger frame disconnects from the mainbody.... what do u think this is?

Skog
10-17-2003, 12:30 AM
definetely sounds like a leak in the solenoid housing.

all i can suggest is to take it to an imp tech, as it is very easy (not to mention expensive) to damage your solenoid trying to find a leak

Radom
10-17-2003, 03:35 AM
This is what I have done to fix my solenoid leak.

Took the solenoid body apart (it breaks down into 3 main sections). The part you want to clean is the spool valve housing and the valve itself. Remove the end cap from the valve body but before you do so note the small line on the cap (its easy to miss, the line mark is close to one of the screws and its on the side that is bolted to the guns housing so not visible unless you unscrew the solenoid from the housing) so when you reassemble it is very important it is facing the correct way because its possible to put the endcap upside down and it will leak or valve will not operate properly because there is a little air hole there for air-recirculation to help the valve move back.

Remove the spool valve and clean/inspect the orings. You can soak the valve in some alcohol to remove the old lubricant and check for cracks in the orings. When you reassemble the valve greese it lightly. I have found that too much lubricant will cause it to leak also. The valve fits tight in the housing but with light lubrication it will go in easy. Install the endcap (make sure you have the tiny spring between the valve and the cap and that the cap is not upsidedown, remember the location of that small line on the cap).

Before you assemble the 3 sections of the solenoid inspect the seals and greese them lightly. Again make sure they are aligned correctly and not covering the little air passages on top and bottom.

Check the solenoid gasket for cracks and lube it lightly. You can install the solenoid back in the body now but leave the two halves of the marker unbolted. Air up the marker and check for leaks. You can manually fire the marker by pushing the small white button on the solenoid housing to see if the valve is operating correctly (make sure the bolt is to the rear before you fire the marker). If no external air leakage is detected reconnect the electrical lead from solenoid to the board, bolt up the marker and dry-fire it few times to make sure it cycles correctly.


The key thing is light lubrication of the spool valve. I have found that too much lube will keep the valve from cycling correctly so remove excessive lube from the valve/housing if needed.

The Impulses general oring kit containes 2 solenoid gaskets and new solenoid screws and all other orings but no spool valve orings so inspect them good before reassembly. New solenoid is around $80-100 but the spool valve itself is $25 if you can find one (many stored do not carry them but might have the whole solenoid assembly).

Hope this helps. It took me 3 tries to stop the leak on my solenoid but now I know what to look for and once you do it its easier the next time to locate and fix the leak. Good luck.

Beatmanias
10-17-2003, 08:35 PM
Thanks but i'm a very clumsy person and I generally break stuff I think i'll get a tech instead!