How to make a cocker shoot farther/flatter/more accurate

[DOW4LiFe]

What are the best upgrade parts for a 2K1 cocker to increase range,accuracy,flat trajectory, and make a cocker low pressure? I already have an ANS Jackhammer II, ANS Gen X-2 Regulator, STO Ram, ANS Quickpull Bolt ( I usually use the stock bolt because the ANS bolt chops paint left and right! Not to mention, if the pneumatic regulator isn't tuned exactly right, it pops out the back of the gun!!!), DYE Boomstick and DYE Exel, and a 68/3K N2 tank. Also, how do I adjust my firing point just a TINY bit earlier in the trigger pull? When i put a piece of tissue paper over the center feed and fire, it sucks the paper in on one shot, and blows it away on the second shot ( this happens every time). I want to eliminate the blowback...

[NICKYB]

If you want your trigger pull earlyer put an allen wrench in from the top of the gun and pull in the screw a little in the hammer

[DOW4LiFe]

What size wrench? And after I remove the bolt...how do i get the wrench to catch the lug....should i turn it counterclockwise or clockwise and how much?

[jaretkelly]

Allright well you asked severel questions in one shot there so I will try to answer all that I can to the best of my knowledge.
To make your cocker shoot sooner in the pull you will have to shorten your timing rod, you do this by loosening the set screw on the three way collar and rotating the collar counter clockwise, but if you do this you may throw your gun off time causing blow back and choping problems. You can also adjust your sear lug like nichyb said but this also my throw your gun off time causing it to chop, you can adjust the lug by removing your bolt and sticking and allen key down the small hole in the top of your body (just behind the feed tube) counter clockwise = out/easier release, clockwise = in/harder/longer release, once again this may send your gun out of time. It is kind of a happy medium you want a gun that will release easy but not chop. If your gun sucks in a peice of paper and shoots it out the next shot you have no blow back and actually have a suction feed which is a sign of a well timed cocker. If this is the case I wouldnt play with the timing at all and just shoot it. Low pressure is very hard to explain basiclly you will need a high flowing valve/bolt/reg, spring kit, air, paint, and lots of patience keep trying diffrent combitations of springs untill you find one that you can lower your pressure but still keep good efficency. If you are intrested in trying to go lp www.paintballguru.com has some very good articles on lp as well as timing a cocker. Also some good lp valves are tornado by aka, rat 3:16 by shocktech and the rocket valve by madman. The stock bolt is very good but there are some better bolts out there. And your reg should work just fine. Range/accuracy/flat trajectory are all accomplished by a good paint/barrel match I would recommend getting a kit that allows you do adjust your bore size such as freak, cp, warped, jt, diff size boomers etc. Once you have a good paint/barrel match it will help tremedously with your accuracy, consitency, and efficency. Pm me if you have any questions about this . I hope I made some sence. :crazy:

[macdruen]

get it flatlined it is the only way to shoot farther and flatter and stay under 300 fps

[Landon]

u cant make it shoot farther... it all depends on the FPS... the FPS is moderated on the fields so everyone shoots the same distance... as for accuracy i say go low pressure

and get an upgraded barrel .... most mid-high barrels will do just as ong as its not stock